HAVE 2002 SONATA AND IT WON'T LET ME FILL GAS TANK! IT'S ON 1/4 FULL AND STOPS/CLICKS LIKE IT'S FULL EVERY 3 TO 5 SECONDS! CAN YOU HELP? WHO CAN AFFORD 90.00 AND HOUR OR MORE FOR REPAIRS WHEN YOU ONLY MAKE 12.00 AN HOUR?
Ya, check behind the drivers rear wheel. There is a black box which contains the charcoal canister, filter, solenoid. You'll need to jack up the car, take that wheel off, mud flap and another plastic section inside the wheel well which will expose the hoses that run in and out of that box. . . . take note where all the hoses go. You'll need to remove the whole thing to get at the filter. The electrical lead that attaches to the solenoid has a unique locking clamp so its difficult to unplug, I opened the trunk and cut the wire where is runs into the wiring harness.(careful to leave enough wire to work with to re-connect it). The filter is hopefully the problem, its only around $10.
Posted on Nov 07, 2010
If I attempt to fill with the full flow of the pump, the pump shuts off.
I must use just a tiny bit of handle pressure and it takes about 10 minutes to put 9 gallons of gas into the tank. This problem just started happening, never a hint of it from 2001 until now. If I put a rubber hose into the filler neck, I encounter an obstacle further down from where the pump filler nozzle would end. This Accent has 23000 miles and is a one owner - me.
I have 2002 Hyundai Accent. When fueling, I had to trickle the fuel in to prevent the fuel dispenser from constantly shutting off. Even then I could only get about a quarter gallon at a time between fuel shutoffs. Would take 10-15 minutes to put in 10 gallons. Very frustrating. I found and fixed the problem today. There is a charcoal cannister that is part of the Evaporative Emissions control system. It is located inside the rear fender well on the driver side, behind the driver side rear tire. You cant miss it. Actually looks like a square plastic box and it has hoses coming out of it. I removed the entire charcoal cannister assembly in about 15 minutes. Follow carefully. First, remove the electrical connector to the purge control valve (this valve assemby is mounted to the side of the charoal cannister on a bracket). No big deal. Then disconnect the three hoses that come out from the cannister assembly on the one side that faces the rear tire. Two of these hoses are small diameter about 1/4" and one is larger at about 5/8 inch diameter. Then you remove the 3 bolts that hold the whole cannister to the car frame. Then the whole piece comes out. Once I got the cannister and purge control valve out of the car as a whole assy I found the problem. The larger of the 3 hoses you disconnected as well as the port it connects to on the cannister was packed with the small charcoal pellets and actually formed a solid plug inside that larger hose. I had to stick a screw driver through that hose to knock the plug out that those charcoal pellets had formed. It all makes sense now. When you fill the tank with gas, you also push out air and vapor from the gas tank that is being displaced by the rising fuel in the tank. That vapor is supposed to go through that larger hose to the charcoal cannister where the fumes are removed by the charcoal. If that hose is plugged, like mine was, then the vapor has nowhere to go as you fill the tank and it increases pressure within the tank it causes the fuel dispenser nozzle to shutoff because it keeps detecting a pressure increase within the tank. That's my theory. I don't have the Hyundai design prints to confirm it. I had to tilt the charcoal dispenser so that the pellets came out of that larger hose port on the cannister. Like I said, even the port itself was full of pellets. So I poured out enough to clear the pellets that were in the hose port. I cleaned out the hose. Put everything back and went to go fill with gas. I filled that tank at full bore with no problem. Have the dealer or your mechanic check the ports and the hoses off the cannister. If they are filled with charcoal pellets, that is the problem. That should cost less than some of the fixes I have been reading about here.
Posted on Feb 06, 2011
How do I replace the alternator in a 2002 hyundai sonata GLS v6?
For 2002 Hyundai Sonata 2.7L MFI
DOHC 6cyl check this procedure...
Alternator - Removal
Removal & Installation
Negative battery cable
Radiator mounting bolts, 1.6L only
Alternator drive belt
Alternator wiring harness connectors
Alternator. It may be necessary to raise the radiator
Fig. Exploded view of the alternator-XG 300
Negative battery cable
Alternator drive belt
Alternator wiring harness connectors
Alternator. It may be necessary to raise the radiator
Negative battery cable
Radiator mounting bolts, 1.6L only
Alternator drive belt
Alternator wiring harness connectors
Alternator. It may be necessary to raise the radiator
Alternator and reposition the radiator, if raised
Alternator wiring harness connectors
Alternator drive belt
Hope helps (remember rated this).
Posted on Jun 25, 2010
I recently purchased a 2002 Sonata with 99,000 miles on it. The car is in great shape, except that I'm having problems filling the gas tank. I can't pump gas for more than one or two seconds before the automatic shut off valve at the pump shuts it off. It takes me 20 minutes to fill the tank. I have yet to fill the tank more than 2/3 full because of this problem.
Anyone have a similar situation? What was the problem and the fix? I'm not looking to dump a lot of money into this car as I didn't pay much for it.
Thank you in advance for your advice!
i just went through that problem
Evap canister / close solenoid and air filter $211- 230.00 in parts
$675- $71.00 at dealships for this small 30 minute task
If no check engine light Evap canister and air filter - fixxes problem 100 %
note:you may be able to get by just replacing air filter- works
rarely
if have check engine- close solenoid and purge solenoid may need replace- you local autozone- like autozone will pull check codes for free
the how to:
Jack car up in rear - behind right rear tire - canister -canister close solenoid & air filter are located in a plastic box with metal strap and one bolt.
Unscrew bolt everything drops down the EVAP CANISTER is held to plastic box by wirer tie . Remove wire tie and solenoid connection.
There is a small metal wire clip the holds the solenoid electrical connection together with a flat screw driver pry up the wire clip , off is okay too , ....it will go back on.
Once you have done all that you have full access there are i believe from memory 3 rubber hoses with clips ......Mark hose connects very important mark the hoses way the going on evap canister with color tape .
Next, remove whole assembly- the solenoid and air filter will come with the evap canister.
Now that have the whole assembly move to your work bench
look to see how the soleniod hook up to the canister and the air filter - now, disconnect the hose to black solenoid and remove the air filter which hook to solenoid and solenoid at same to ......
Next seperate the the solenoid and air filter- you should be air to put your mouth on solenoid and blew air in one hole and out the other- this solenoid is noramlly open- if air dosen't go threw is stuck closed and must be replaced.
same with air filter- this air filter are know for get plugged and should be replaced every 30,000 miles.
Also note: over fill you gas tank , at fill up - can cause the Evap to get liquid gas inside which cause the chorcoal in the filter to swell up and plyug the system up.------ you should when fill up stop pump gas after the auto pump click off on normal work tank and not try to top off you tank.
note: check with your deal for exact wieghts
weigh the evap canister - six pound - replace it- new one is about 4-4.5 pounds - it is just best to replace .The evap holds gas fumes then send to engine so that dosn't vent to
All parts are dealships only -
This is easy fix and normal, for gas fill problems
canister Evap 161.00
canister close solenoid 43.00 may or may not be used
air filter 7.00
not used in this fix- check engine fix use these parts
sensor price ?
purge valve 39.00
canister close solenoid 43.00
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
check engine light on po441 where is it located
P0441 = Evap. Emission Ctrl. System Incorrect Purge Flow. Listed Cause - valve stuck in open position.
INSPECTION (4 cylinder engine)
When disconnecting the vacuum hose, make an identification mark on it so that it can be reconnected to its original position.
1.
Disconnect the vacuum hose (black with red stripe) from the solenoid valve.
2.
Detach the harness connector.
3.
Connect a vacuum pump to the nipple to which the red-striped vacuum hose was connected.
4.
Apply vacuum and check when voltage is applied to the EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve and when the voltage is discontinued.
Battery voltage
Normal condition
When applied
Vacuum is released
When discontinued
Vacuum is maintained
V6 Purge Solenoid Valve
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
The paint is peeling off my door handles on the OUTSIDE of my car. It's very noticeable as underneath the paint its white ....my car is silver. On one of my doors the paint is almost completely gone on my door handle (it's the entire door handle - the actual handle and underneath it). It's so obvious I've had people ask me what was wrong with the paint. The paint is not peeling off of anything else on the car. Are there any recalls on these handles or is there another solution? (I know about the recall for the "inside" door handles where the silver is peeling off - my car also has that!)
the same is happening to the out side but they dont recall it if they dont have to! lose too much money!
Posted on Apr 02, 2010
I have a 2002 Hyundai Sonata. Since i have bought it i have had nothing but trouble with the headlights,fog lights blowing ! I have gotten the bulbs from the dealer but they still blow. Is there any one that can help me out on what to do??? thanks for the time....
[email protected]
GENERATOR OUTPUT LINE VOLTAGE DROP TEST
This test determines the condition of the wiring from the generator "B" terminal to the battery (+) terminal (including the fusible link).
1.
Be sure to check the following before testing:
a.
Generator installation and wiring connections
b.
Generator drive belt tension
c.
Fusible link
d.
Abnormal noises from the generator while the engine is running.
2.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4.
Disconnect the generator output wire from the generator "B" terminal. Connect a DC test ammeter with a range of 0-100A in series between the "B" terminal and the disconnected output wire. (Connect the (+) lead of the ammeter to the "B" terminal. Connect the (-) lead of the ammeter to the disconnected output wire.)
An inductive-type ammeter which enables measurements to be taken without disconnecting the generator output wire is recommended. Using this equipment will lessen the possibility of a voltage drop caused by a loose "B" terminal connection.
5.
Connect a digital-type voltmeter between the generator "B" terminal and the battery (+) terminal. (Connect the (+) lead of the voltmeter to the "B" terminal. Connect the (-) lead of the voltmeter to the battery (+) cable.)
6.
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
7.
Connect a tachometer or the scan tool.
8.
Start the engine.
9.
With the engine running at approx. 2500 rpm, turn the headlights and other lights on and off to adjust the generator load on the ammeter slightly above 30A.
Limit: max. 0.3V
When the generator output is high and the value displayed on the ammeter does not decrease to 30A, set the value to 40A. Read the value displayed on the voltmeter. In this case the limit becomes max. 0.4V.
10.
If the value displayed on the voltmeter is still above the limit, a fault in the generator output wire may exist. Check the wiring between the generator "B" terminal and the battery (+) terminal (including fusible link). If a terminal is not sufficiently tight or if the harness has become discolored due to overheating, repair, then test again.
11.
After the test, run the engine at idle.
12.
Turn off all lights and turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
13.
Disconnect the tachometer or the scan tool.
14.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
15.
Disconnect the ammeter and voltmeter.
16.
Connect the generator output wire to the generator "B" terminal.
17.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Posted on Jun 05, 2008
The gas tank door will not open when pressing the button located on the door. Fuse not blown.
Try having a second person pull on the door as you press the button, and also listen by the door to see if you can hear the release latch working. Also, open your trunk, and on the same side as your gas tank will be a little pull handle as an emergency release for your fuel door. It may be behind the trunk liner, but usualy they are easily accessable. and if you have any other problems, refer to the owner's manual to locate the release.
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
2002 hyundai sonata - when dispensing fuel pump is shut off. Must pump gas very slowly.
This is perfectly normal. It happens because as the fuel goes into the
tank it splashes and bubbles. As the tank gets closer to being full,
the displacement caused by the bubbles forces the gas to go up the pipe
that feeds the tank and triggers the "full" switch on the pump nozzle.
This is similar to if you are filling up a cup of cola at a restaurant,
you have to wait for the fizz to die down before you can put that last
1/4 in.
Other opinions comment most of the time the problem is the charcoal canister. Five things needs to be checked/fixed:
1.- a canister close valve could be clogged with charcoal or not working
2.- a canister filter
3.- electrical connection to the close valve
4.- broken canister
5.- a purge valve which pull fuel vapors from the canister
6.- all the hoses of canister should be open, means not clogged
I can hear about similar problem of pumping gas and have replaced the canister close valve, now they can pump gas without a continuous auto shut off.
Here I find and quote other comments about this "normal" shut off function...
Cecil replies:
Pal, you're going to need a doctorate to understand the following, so
cleanse your mind of distracting thoughts. In a gas pump handle you have
two valves: the main valve, which is actuated by the oversize trigger
you squeeze to make the gas flow, and the check valve, which lets gas
flow out but won't let anything back in again, thus reducing fire
hazard. In the seat of the check valve you have a little hole. To the
backside of this hole is connected a Y-shaped tube. One branch of this
tube runs down the nozzle and exits at the tip while the other runs back
to a diaphragm connected to a release mechanism on the main valve. When
you squeeze the gas pump trigger, gas running past the hole in the
check valve sucks air out of the Y-shaped tube. (This is because of the
Bernoulli principle: a moving stream of fluid tends to pull things in
from the sides. Take my word for it.) As long the end of the Y-shaped
tube exiting at the spout is unobstructed, air is simply pulled into the
tube and nothing much else happens. However, as soon as the gas in your
car's fill-up pipe gets high enough to cover the end of the tube, a
partial vacuum is created therein, which yanks on the diaphragm,
releases the main valve, and shuts off the gas. If the gas happens to be
especially foamy one day, it may actuate the release mechanism
prematurely, with the result that you end up with less than a full tank
of gas. Simple, huh? Sure, just like nuclear fission. Stick with English
lit.
Hope helped.
Posted on Aug 05, 2010
does the 2002 hyundai sonata have front shocks or struts?
The 2002 Hyundai Sonata has struts on the front and rear.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
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