Top 20 1991 Geo Metro Questions & Answers

did you try cranking with throttle open 100% this clears flooding this cuts the injector(s) dead. does it/ try fresh spark plugs, are the 10 years old? try test fuel (spray)? run for 3 seconds, if not, you lost spark check fuses. if you have spark and it wants flood is the cam belt 10 years old too, if it slips it will not run again, ever. until that is cured.

there are 2 hoses,(pair) it's a trans cooler inside the rad. there is no correct order. it's not polarized in any way. its just a coil of pipe (atf cooler) inside the rad tank. if you want it to look stock, the read the shop manual. it covers this routing, path, and clamps if any. even the fittings on the rad tank are same sizes, hinting that either works, ok.

Hi Teresa thats ththhe sign of a battery going bad, how old is the battery? You might want to have it load tested so you can trouble shoot further, there could be more than 1 issue.

how many , per wheel hub or axle? http://www.gmpartsdepartment.com/parts/1991/Geo/Metro/Base?siteid=214533&vehicleid=175776&diagram=HC89097&diagramCallOut=1 in most case there are 2 seals per hub. outer and inner. but some have an outer bearing with its own seal so we LOOK first. and is best i all cases. just read on a real metro forum. i think yours has 2 seals, early but what if someone upgrade this hub? looking always wins. later axle. #4 is (seal bearing in one) I think yours has 2 seals.http://geometroforum.com/topic/2720995/1/

Yes there is and there pressed in and out

No this engine is not supposed to be an interference engine. So you may not have damaged any pistons or valves.

A locksmith can come out and make a key for it. But they used to charge $75 just to come out

Just install it and the fuel pump will fill it when you start the vehicle.

All I can say about this is the transmission is controlled by a cable. You will have to inspect the cable and the parts to the cable to find what is broken. Wish you luck.

if the covers have screws...remove screws if not you have to take off the rear panel

insert the ECU diagnostic connector (DLC) jumper. crank for 5 seconds. release key, watch the CEL lamp flash codes. do you get DTC erropr for the CMP sensor? which engine>? 1.0L here is the page that shows HOW TO DO THAT. this is and OBD1 car, with a jumper check. all cars , if the precursors to spark fail, sets a code. (error) http://geometroforum.com/topic/638390/1/

we need just 1 clue. where did you see that.?

Could be either the relay or the horn switch not making contact

same as all G engines. at timing belt change time, every 60k miles and is same chapter in the book. alldata.com covers the 1L engine, G10. if you buy the GATE belt, the instructions are in the box. first google hit on G10 is. http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=26588

try to trace the cable. and then with hands pull it . or cut it and skin it back and pull the center wire with vise grips. takes a deft touch to that skin thing, brute force. getting to the latch and unbolting it from the front, would be hard. only the trunk monkey can do that. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=8avOiTUcD4Y#t=79 hehehehehehehe

Your probably looking at a transmission rebuild. But it is sporadic. Could be a valve body problem or solenoids. and electrical. Throw it on a scanner and find out.

knocking off the engine overheat sensor. sure.

joking.... Sears squirted it here (history, and lawsuits.....) they are bad.

relay stuck ,called park relay or as in all electrics bad wiring bad control switch to the relay old post;

Several possible causes: Not enough coolant. Worn out vanes on the water pump plugged radiator bad sensor (is it actually too hot?) Cooling fan not coming on. cooling fan shroud broken. Radiator covered or plugged. radiator cap not holding pressure leak in cooling system (water pump shaft seal is a common culprit and hard to spot).