20 Most Recent 1991 Geo Metro - Page 4 Questions & Answers

check your fuses. It could possibly be the multifunction switch in the steering wheel..kinda pricey.

The torque converter may be shot.

The main Transmission fluid pump may be shot.

The electricals to the solenoids may be disconnected or relays maight not be functioning.

Look for drips of oil and listen for strange sounds coming from it.

Is it a manual or automatic transmission?

On the automatics the two cables that interconnect above the transmission need to be set perfect for the transmission to pump pressure and engage the transmission.

Set it so the backside is fairly tight and the carburator isn't loose to the throttle valve assembly. Then loosen the front cable and pull it towards yourself until tight and finger tighten the adjustment bolts.

Now shift it into Neutral. Loosen the front and back nuts on the heavy shifting rod and center them again. Tighten them up. If you loose reverse loosen the front cable a tiny bit and you're done.

the temp sensor for the fan is going bad assuming the car cools down after the fan comes on and stays cool intil the fan turns off again. replacing it should fix your problem.

Likely not. Check it for spark when its hot. It might be an ignition module or coil problem.

if u go under the car and look on the transmission case u will find 2 pipe thread plugs, the upper is the fill, the lower the drain, fill the transmission with the correct lubricant to just below the lip of the threaded hole, about 1/4" is good, don't overfill, to improve ******* you can also add an ounce of gear lube friction modifier (also called positraction additive), it's an old trick that really works.

Getting enough space between the transmission and steering knuckle requires either hoisting the engine and transmission several inches or dropping the lower ball joint. A word of caution on removing the ball joint - the keeper bolt above the ball joint must be removed for the ball joint shaft to come out. Also be careful not to rip rubber boot dust cover on the ball; replacements are hard to find. Unstake the splindle nut and remove it; they are generally very hard to get loose. I suggest an impact wrench, or at least a long 1/2" drive breaker bar. Use a pry bar between the transmission housing and the CV joint to pop the inside end of the shaft out of the transmission; it takes some pressure to pop the snap-ring, but you won't break it.

The only way I can think of that raw gasoline could get into the oil is at the thottle body. So, the fuel injector or fuel line in the throttle body would be the first place to look if you're sure that it's gas in the oil and not another fluid.

Hi, there should be a fuse and a Starter Relay located in engine compartment, driver side, front side of strut tower, mounted in relay block on fender wall.

Different manufacturers use different abreviations for circuit fuses and relays, I recommend to check all of them.

Also, check if when key is in RUN, power is getting to the Starter Selenoid Mounted on top of the Starter thru the skinny wire (There is a FAT wire coming straight from the battery, that one is HOT at all times,) if power is coming in, REPLACE STARTER SELENOID, if no power present, REPLACE IGNITION SWITCH.

I've includded a troubleshooting chart, instruccions on how to replace STARTER SELENOID and some pictures to help you better identify and fix your problem. (I always think is better to have too much information than not enough) : )

Four types of starter motor are utilized depending upon the vehicle transaxle and assembly plant location. Manual transaxle equipped vehicles utilize a conventional starter motor which consists of a yoke, an armature assembly, an overrunning clutch assembly, a solenoid, a commutator end cover, a brush holder and a pinion drive lever. Automatic transaxle equipped vehicles utilize a reduction type starter motor which has, in addition to the components found on conventional starter motors, a reduction gear and shock absorber assembly.

In the basic circuit, the solenoid windings are energized when the ignition switch is turn to the START position and the clutch start/neutral safety switch is closed. The resulting plunger and shift lever movement causes the pinion to engage the engine flywheel ring gear. This movement also causes the starter solenoid contacts to close
.
With the contacts closed, the starter solenoid provides a closed circuit between the battery positive terminal and the starter motor. Because the starter motor is permanently grounded to the engine block, the circuit is complete and cranking occurs as soon as the starter solenoid contacts are closed.

When the engine starts, the pinion is designed to overrun and protect the armature from excessive speed until the ignition switch is released from the START position. With the ignition switch released, a return spring in the solenoid assembly forces the starter solenoid contacts open, breaks the circuit between the battery and the starter motor, and disengages the pinion. To prevent prolonged overrun, the ignition switch should be immediately released upon engine start-up.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the positive battery cable from the starter.
3. Label and disconnect the solenoid electrical connectors.
4. Scribe matchmarks on the solenoid and drive housing to ensure proper solenoid installation.
5. Remove the nut and field coil lead wire from the solenoid.
6. Remove the screws and solenoid from the starter.

To install:

1. Lightly grease solenoid plunger.
2. Install solenoid to starter aligning housing matchmarks.
3. Install screws and tighten securely.
4. Install field coil lead wire to solenoid and secure with retaining nut. Tighten to 89 inch lbs.. (10 Nm).
5. Install the solenoid electrical connector.
6. Install the positive battery cable. to the starter. Tighten to 89 inch lbs.. (10 Nm).
7. Connect the negative battery cable.

Let me know how it worked out, Good Luck,

Sorry for the severe delay.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered question.
I do not know if you still need the answer, but I am going to answer it in case you still do.

Click on the following direct Link. It has the Timing Belt Diagrams with Marks for the Camshaft and Crankshaft that you will need. It also has schematics on cover bolt/nut locations.

Again my apologies...
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1991/make/geo/model/metro/1991_geo_metro_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

all are computer fault codes

a 5 pound steel hammer is needed to whack this off. first I would retract the brake shoes first to give the drum more room inside so it will remove easier

have the TPS checked..Auto Zone will run a FREE computer scan for you to see what is wrong

to diagnosis need to know if you have a distributor with or without a vacumm advance on it?

Hi,

I could give a Generic Direction for Most of the Metro Models :-

Here are step-by-step directions:


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the engine coolant.
3. Remove the instrument panel and center supports. -
4. On convertible models, remove the inflator module from the steering wheel.
5. Remove the lower steering column trim panel.
6. On convertible models, remove the steering wheel.
7. On convertible models, remove the SIR coil/combination switch assembly.
8. On hardtop models, remove the combination switch from the steering wheel.
9. Remove the right and left kick panels by removing a plastic retaining nut and clip from each panel.
10. Remove the right and left speaker
grilles from instrument panel by removing screws and plastic retaining clip from each grille.
11. On convertible models, remove the retaining clip securing instrument panel to each door jamb.
12. Remove the right and left from speakers from instrument panel by removing screws and one electrical connector from each speaker.
13. Remove the glove box inner panel.
14. Remove the A/C switch electrical connector through the glove box.
15. Remove the heater control unit lever knobs and pull the heater control unit from the instrument panel.
16. Disconnect the heater control unit illumination lamp from cover plate.
17. On manual transmission vehicles, remove the gearshift control lever upper boot from console, then remove the console.
18. Remove the ashtray.
19. Remove the center console trim bezel and instrument panel center trim bezel. Remove the radio.
20. Remove the electrical connectors from the cluster trim bezel mounted switches.
21. Remove the retaining clip and speedometer cable at transaxle to ease cluster assembly removal.
22. Remove cluster assembly from instrument panel.
23. Remove the speedometer cable and all electrical connectors from back of cluster assembly, then remove cluster assembly from vehicle.
24. Remove ashtray illumination lamp electrical connector.
25. Remove electrical connector from rear of cigar lighter then, remove retaining ring from rear of cigar lighter.
26.Remove the lower instrument panel retaining screws.
27. Remove the upper instrument panel retaining screws.
28.Remove screw retaining instrument panel bracket to floor pan.
29. Remove the illumination controller electrical connector.
30. Remove the hood latch release lever.
31. Remove instrument panel from vehicle.
32. Remove the heater control assembly from the support member.
33. Disconnect all electrical connectors and cables from the heater case.
34. Disconnect the heater core hoses.
35. Remove the defrost duct and speedometer retaining bracket from the heater case.
36. Remove the fastening bolts, grommets and floor duct, if equipped, from the case and remove the case from the vehicle.
37. Separate the heater case and remove the heater core

To install:

1. Install the core and assemble the heater case.
2.Install the fastening bolts, grommets and floor duct to the case after installation.
3.Install the defrost duct and speedometer retaining bracket to the heater case.
4.Connect the heater core hoses.
5.Connect all electrical connectors and cables to the heater case.
6.Install the center supports and instrument panel.


1..Install instrument panel to vehicle.
2.Install the hood latch release lever.
3.Install the illumination controller electrical connector.
4.Install screw retaining instrument panel bracket to floor pan.
5.Install the upper instrument panel retaining screws.
6.Install the lower instrument panel retaining screws.
7.Install electrical connector to rear of cigar lighter then, install retaining ring to rear of cigar lighter.
8. Install ashtray illumination lamp electrical connector.
9.Install the speedometer cable and all electrical connectors to back of cluster assembly, then install cluster assembly to vehicle.
10. Install cluster assembly to instrument panel.
11.Install the retaining clip and speedometer cable at transaxle.
12. Install the electrical connectors to the cluster trim bezel mounted switches.
13.Install the center console trim bezel and instrument panel center trim bezel. install the radio.
14.Install the ashtray.
15. On manual transmission vehicles, install the console, then install the gearshift control lever upper boot to console.
16.Connect the heater control unit illumination lamp to cover plate.
17.Install the heater control unit lever knobs and push the heater control unit to the instrument panel.
18.Install the A/C switch electrical connector through the glove box.
19.Install the glove box inner panel.
20.Install the right and left to speakers to instrument panel and one electrical connector to each speaker.
21.On convertible models, install the retaining clip securing instrument panel to each door jamb.
22.Install the right and left speaker grilles to instrument panel by removing screws and plastic retaining clip to each grille.
23.Install the right and left kick panels by removing a plastic retaining nut and clip to each panel.
24.On hardtop models, install the combination switch to the steering wheel.
25.On convertible models, install the SIR coil/combination switch assembly.
26.On convertible models, install the steering wheel.
27.Install the lower steering column trim panel.
28.On convertible models, install the inflator module to the steering wheel.
29.Refill engine coolant
30.Connect the negative battery cable.


Let me know, if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

either the pump is on its last leg or you have a short in the fuel pump harness

Sounds like a timing belt may have broken. If you try cranking it and it seems turning over very fast, it probably is the belt.

Replace your fuel pressure regulator. Looks like this: