20 Most Recent 2003 Land Rover Range Rover - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Most likely the engine detonates when you use lower quality fuel and the load on the engine is high.
The first thing you should do is to test it for errors to make sure that the fault isn't caused by a failing sensor. Next next check the motor and transmission supports aren't damaged - if the rubber bushing age they could allow the entire engine to vibrate violently at the slightest cause. Finally make sure you use the best available fuel, that the engine temperature is in normal ranges and that the gas system is functioning correctly - the mixer has no leaks.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. You can call the dealership to get the code. It will probably cost you some money, but you will get your code. You may need your VIN number anf vehicle info as well. If it is not in the owner manual, you will have to call them.

you need to open the whole Glove box then only you'll be able to get out your CD changer

The Central locking might needs to be reprogrammed as it might be went into Transportation mode but the Ft. Wipers might be the column switch...these causes due to long time Vehicle being parked without usage

Hi

If you have no trouble when starting but just afterwards I would suspect that either the alternator isn't cranking out the voltage, or your battery isn't taking on the charge. Check your fuses and stuff. Get a multimeter/voltmeter and make sure you have at least 13v with the car on.A fully charged battery should read approx. 12.8 volts without engine running and it should read approx. 13.8-14.2 with engine running.Advanced auto can test your alternator very easily with their battery tester. Also new batteries sometimes sit on the shelves for a while and need to go through a few charge cycles before they start to behave. Check ALL your grounds, and the positive cable to be sure nothing is loose.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

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check fuse/check blower rheostat/ rheostat is next to blower motor/rheostat controls blower speeds

You need to move the steering wheel at the same time your trying to turn the key. If this don't work the problem is the ignition starter switch cylinder.
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Hello lindycruse,

You should have the battery checked, but I doubt that it will need replacing.

Regards,
netvan

Probably a leak in left front shock/spring. It's something a qualified tech needs to repair or diagnose. you don't won't to try that at home.

TO CHECK FOR A BATTERY DRAIN. TURN OFF EVERY SWITCH IN THE CAR. CLOSE THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT. MAKE SURE THE LITE IN THERE IS GOING OUT. OPEN THE HOOD CLOSE ALL OF THE DOORS. MAKE SURE ALL OF THE COURTESY LIGHTS ARE GOING OUT. DISCONNECT ANY UNDER HOOD LIGHTS. DISCONNECT NEG. BATTERY CABLE. USE A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT, FASTEN ONE END TO THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL, FASTEN THE OTHER END TO A METAL PART OF THE MOTOR. IF THE LIGHT COMES ON, THERE IS A BATTERY DRAIN. NO LIGHT, NO DRAIN. IF THE LIGHT IS ON, PULL EACH FUSE, BIG & SMALL, ONE AT A TIME, OUT OF THE FUSEBOX THAT IS NEAR THE BATTERY. WHICHEVER FUSE MAKES THE LIGHT GO OUT IS CAUSING THE DRAIN. IF THE LIGHT STAYS ON THROUGHOUT THE FUSE PULLING, DISCONNECT THE ALTERNATOR. IF THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG IN THE ALTERNATOR, IT CAN DRAIN THE BATTERY WHILE SITTING STILL, EVEN THOUGH IT IS CHARGING THE BATTERY WHILE YOU ARE DRIVING. GOOD LUCK

Depends on what sort of gasket you use and wether you do it yourself. A mechanic could charge anywhere up to and beyond $500.

most likely cause is worn pump not giving enough pressure

The Range Rover's fuel pump is mounted inside the tank, through a hole in its top. It is mounted in a special collapsible intake assembly to allow it to keep on operating when the bottom of the tank is deformed by hitting rocks and other terrain obstacles. However, failure of the fuel pump due to various causes is the most common reason for a Range Rover to be towed into a shop.

It appears that you have a minor leak at where a hose attaches to an engine or radiator pipe. When the engine is hot, any small leak will evaporate quickly and therefore not be seen. As the coolant heats up it will expand into the overflow tank but once the engine is stopped the extra heat build up will force the coolant out the leaking joint. As the engine cools, the leak prevents the coolant from being sucked back from the overflow tank.

Check all hoses and clamps including heater hoses and those pesky little bypass hoses in the cooling system for a good tight fit and replace any hoses that have gone hard or have become soft and stretched. Those spring type hose clamps tend to be less effective in clamping as the hoses age. Worm drive ones are the best to use.

If unsure take vehicle to a cooling system specialist and have them do a pressure test and more thorough diagnosis.

If problem persists, then it could indicate a problem with the head gasket (Usually caused by allowing engine to become excessively overheated when cooling system has run dry) allowing very hot high pressure combustion gases into the engine water jacket, which super heats the coolant in the engine block, which then boils off, and is released via the cap or any leaks. If the head gasket is really bad it will leak water into the cylinders and into the oil in the sump. This is indicated by an emulsion of water and oil mix on the dipstick. You will also see white smoke (water vapour) from the exhaust.

Simply replace the A/C Fan Resistor and things will be alright. if you need the instruction how to replace then kindly email me on [email protected]

it could be from many reasons...sometimes even the ABS system will cause this fault or even the Steering position Sensor. if it comes and goes then inspect your height sensors as the early version of the height sensors are getting weak and like melting so it gives wrong reading which cause the fault...offer more info. and you'll get your solution

There is only 1 Fuel pump but it has 2 Floats to read the amount of fuel Tank as the Tank made into 2parts