Top 20 2000 Land Rover Discovery - Page 9 Questions & Answers

When you say whine does it only occur under acceleration only? If so most likely the wheel hub assembly or some will say wheel bearing but on these vehicles it is complete hub assembly. If you turn or swerve one way then the other does it go away in one direction? If so another strong indication of hub wearing out. If not, and it is a really high whine with acceleration it is also possibly the transmission. I have heard of this complaint before, it's not a sign of failure just a noise that develops due to the pressure placed on bearing under a load. First change fluid and filter for tranny after a good flushing. Replace with high quality fluid and a bottle of transmission seal restore product. Go 1000 miles, change fluid again, if noise is still there turn up radio.
Sorry but just a whine under acceleration isn't a lot to go on. But I'm willing to bet wheel hub. 9 out of ten front end whine complaints is wheel hub or bearing especially on a heavy 4x4 suv

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problem most likely in the plug/connection wiring -- broken , loose or corroded
if the indicators of the vehicle work it is not a fuse problem but wiring and connection

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park on a hill, motor up hill there is a T on heat hole remove cap and fill be sure to check coolant before removing it from hill. the steeper the hill the better (be sure to turn on heater to push air out of line )

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Sounds like a fuel problem, not electrical.
1. Can you hear the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition? If not there may be a broken wiring connection to the pump.(see below)
2. Find the join where the fuel enters the intake manifold. (One is the line in, the other is the return) Undo the joint then turn on the ignition. If fuel comes out, then the pump is OK and you may have just had an airlock.
3. If you could not hear the fuel pump, first check the fuses. If all OK, you will have to remove the carpet in the load space to get to the pump contacts. With a test lamp or a multimeter and the ignition "on" check to see if there is actually power to the pump. If not, it is quite likely the wiring has broken under the vehicle - not a big job to fix it, just dirty and awkward. If you can't find a break, run a test wire from the battery to the pump - you will not need the ignition to test it. - if the pump works, the problem is wiring. If not, it could be the pump itself.

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IF its runs its not the motor I think it the switch on the calum

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You do not say, but if this is the V8 petrol engine, you probably have a leak at the valley gasket. After 5+ years, this is entirely possible.
Alternatively it may be a failed heater hose.

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check rear brake shoes or pads

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Just the two electrical boxes under the hood (both under black covers) and then you have the fuse box under the steering column (two flat head screws to release the hinged cover) and that reveals a fuse box below the column.

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Start with the simple stuff. Carefully remove the electrical connector at the pressure switch (the cylinder on top of or at the side of the ABS pump) clean the connectors with a brass or carbon fibre (not steel) mini-brush. Then spray the connectors with electrical parts cleaner.
If that does not fix the problem, you will need to run some diagnostic tests on the pump itself but my bet is that it is a simple connection issue. I just fixed the same problem on my 93 SE Range Rover

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Sounds like you are in need of a transmission rebuild.

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' Best deal for your solutions" . please visit the site. I also use the site and it was very help full for you.

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Replace the speedo sensor. Usually the last sensor on the transmission. Near the drive shaft.

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If that was easy we would not need keys and it sure would really help car thieves.

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Most likely from lack of use. Alternatively the transmission is wound up where by you need to jack up both wheels on one side to release the load on the axles. Or you can take it on some long grass, sand or other slippery surface, belt it around getting wheelspin and it should pop out. Hold your hand gently against the stick while you do it and it should come free. Don't drive it any further than absolutely necessary on a hard surface to do this because damage will result. You can do it by dropping 2 wheels onto the verge so they slip a bit.

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No year. If it electric, replace the motor. It has a module built in it. If it is manual. Rebuild the T case.

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I'd probably have to double check your temp gage and go from there. What all did you replace? Other than your temp gage, any indications of overheating, like the engine smoking or coolant boiling over. Are you losing coolant? Does the radiator fan work? Did you check for coolant circulation. Check for combustion gases in the coolant.

How hot does it get in degrees F?

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If the fuse is OK as you say, it is most likely the switch, a broken electrical line or the drive motor. Try chasing the cable from the switch to the motor and check for 12+ volts at various points with the switch in the "on" position.

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have you tried removing the light via the OBD system ie clear the faults

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You need a diagnostic scan to find a fault code to help with repair. Good local garage can help...most likely an abs / sensor fault.

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