1999 Lincoln Continental - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Pull Fuse #31 in your driver side under dash fuse panel. Bottom means closest to the floor. Second row from bottom. Second fuse in from driver side door 15A. Controls all interior lighting and courtesy lights. Under hood and trunk. Pull it and your good to go until you drop off to have the control module replaced. You're Welcome!

https://www.lincoln.com/support/vehicle/Continental/1999/owner-manuals/

1999 car in USA? Innova what model is it.? best is the one that does all FORD factory codes too. P1xxx UP,etc. Innova, OBD2, scan tool (I have 2) here are the steps, 1: fresh batteries in INNOVA 3x, AAA . 2: fuse that runs pin 16 power on OBD2, Power in not dead but is 12vdc or it fall fails. (car fuse for this pin not blown) 3: connect INNOVA 16pin plug to 16pin jack at knees dash edge 4: turn on INNOVA and scan . , the manual if free, if lost.

A 3 prong mains plug? It might be a block heater? Wiring diagrams, but really you need a Service Manual. https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Lincoln+continental+wiring+diagram ..

I suppose the plug is down in a tube that goes through the valve cover. There might be plastic melted around it that keeps the socket from going on completely. Verify what is in the way with a flashlight. If plastic, chip it away with a narrow screwdriver or ice-pick, then blow out the chips, You could GENTLY tap a socket onto the sparkplug base safely. You will need a magnet to lift the sparkplug base out of the hole.

Could be caused by a few different thing's ,dirty mass air flow sensor ( if your vehicle has one ) A worn TPS - throttle position sensor , dirty throttle plate .

Its pretty simple remove , clean, replace.

Watch these three videos ! Door Locks Go Crazy 1 Door Locks Go Crazy 2 Door Locks Go Crazy 3

you plug it in the diagnostic port under the dash.

Then what happened?

This could be a couple of problems. Check to see that there is nothing in the sunroof track. Believe it or NOT you may even have a worn sunroof motor. Over time it can drag down needing replaced. Need more info...how old is the Vehicle & does the sunroof open real slow in reverse direction. Are you able to close it helping along with your hand and the sunroof motor as well?

The cooling fan has two wires going to it. One goes to the ground, one to the "hot" wire. The hot wire is connected to the sensor on the engine block that tells the fan to turn on whenever the engine temperature reaches a certain point. I am thinking either the engine block sensor or possibly a relay in the electrical box under the hood has failed, and is sending electricity to the fan when it shouldn't. Replacing the sensor or the relay will solve the problem. God bless your efforts.

You need to isolate the draw by installing an ammeter in series with the battery. Remove the negative cable and hook one end of the meter to the cable and the other to the battery and see what amperage is drawn. Start removing fuses one at a time till the draw on the meter drops. This will tell you what fuse it is and what that fuse controls. You then have to find what is causing the draw from what the fuse controls. This can be a tedious task.

proportional valves are designed to give the right amount of hydraulic pressure to the back brake to prevent them locking up with a resultant loss of control of the vehicle replacement of calipers would only be need once to fix jammed or leaking pistons but the pads may have to be replaced more often. if it only the front brakes that is the problem ,I suspect that the fault will be in the compensating ports of the master cylinder that is not releasing the fluid back into the reservoir and the resultant heat build up from the pads still in contact with the discs is building up brake pressure and so keeping the pads on the discs to the point where lock up is evident failed proportioning valves will result in no brake action to the rear wheels or rear wheel lock up If parts are not available from the manufacturer spares department, they should be still be available from reputable brake shops as car manufacturers do not make brake parts as such but rely on brake manufacturers to supply items to specifications the unit will be repairable by an accredited shop and failing that would be available from the wreckers.

first you have to check out to find what is leaking oil. get the engine shampooed first to check for were the oil is leaking out.

if you need a jump start to go again it would be a fair bet to say that the battery needs checking with a load tester or the alternator is not up to the job if you attend to these faults then the engine will probably not have a problem as it will be getting a good power supply to keep running

wouldnt start before all that or just after, (hummmmmmm) wont crank or cranks robustly but wont start. check fuses yet?

I am sorry about your misfortune. You need to determine what type of fluid it was. If it is coolant it is usually a green or pink. Cooling systems can be pressurized and be tested to find leaks. If it was any other type of leak, proper visual inspection will determine usually where to start.

Their are 2 sensors 1 is the ECT this one tells the computer the engine temp so it can adjust fuel and air spark advance ect . The other one tells the gauge inside what to read hot or cold . However the sensors are not your problem .You have some kind of blockage in the cooling system .Eighter the thermostat the radidator heater core or mabey a problem with the water pump or a combination of them . The best thing to do at this point it remove the Tstat see how it runs with out it see if the heat works inside . The problem is this isn't the kind of thing you can put a bandaid on . Being 99 unless the system has been serivced over the years then now someone has to pay the price.. You more then likely need to rebuild the entire system thats radiator heater core water pump hoses T stat back flush block and antifreeze with new radiator cap .