1.
Remove the drive belt.
(Refer to Timing System - "Drive Belt")
2.
Remove the A/C compressor.
(Refer to Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning - "Compressor")
3. Remove the A/C compressor bracket (A).
4.
Drain the engine oil.
5. Remove the oil pan (A). Insert the blade of SST (09215-3C000) between the ladder frame and oil pan. Cut off applied sealer and remove the lower oil pan.
•
Insert the SST between the oil pan and the ladder frame by tapping it with a plastic hammer in the direction of arrow.
•
After tapping the SST with a plastic hammer along the direction of arrow around more than 2/3 edge of the oil pan, remove it from the ladder frame.
• Do not turn over the SST abruptly without tapping. It be result in damage of the SST.
Suggest that a KIA dealer with the factory analysis scan systems take a look at and do the diagnostics. They charge for the service and should provide you an estimate for the repair. You should be free to replace the components your self.
The catalytic converter needs to be protected from non normal operation, a concern I would have with an engine air/fuel idle problem.
Hope this helps?
communication failure can be any thing from fuse to computer failure --check fluid level and connections at transfer case -fuses and relays--wiring harness connections to computer--test and check control module which do fail --and test sensors [ the flash on and off is to advise of failure ]
If both remotes light up and don't work even right next to the car, the car and remotes may need to be paired again. I found where someone mentioned disconnecting the car batter for more than one minute but less than five and seeing if it works again. If not, you may have to get it checked at a dealer. Most of these fobs are only programable with special tools at the dealer. I've purchased nissan oem fobs new on ebay, but still had to pay the local dealer to get them to work.
When it won't start you need to find out what's missing , Spark , fuel pressure , an then go from there . If no spark is it a coil , ignition module , crankshaft position sensor , the PCM/ECM - engine computer . If the fuel system is the problem is the B+ voltage to the fuel pump ? Is there a fuel pump relay that supplies B+ voltage to the fuel pump , is the PCM/ECM turning on the fuel pump . The simptoms you provide make's me think a sensor is going bad , shorting out when hot or vehicle is up to temp.
No Start Diagnostic Basics EricTheCarGuy
There is a short between the dome light and the door switches, this can be caused by something as simple as water damage. check all the wires and switches before you think it is the BCM.
Make sure hose is on all the way. Make sure radiator isn't crack at upper hose connection. Good luck. Just start it and watch for leak as it gets warm.
check that the actuator is moving the gear dog into position fully for complete engagement
it indicates that the connection is not complete and the pressure on the teeth is making if jump out of the engagement
have an accredited transmission shop check that adjustment
the symptoms indicate a failure to properly engage --adjustment--or worn teeth of the dog--- new parts -- or misalignment of the shafts --- new bearings and parts
have a proper diagnosis done first as replacement parts gets to be an expensive job
I have reviewed multiple postings by you about this and do not understand what you are asking. Also, If this pertains to a motor vehicle can you post the year make and model.
You need a shop with a really savvy tech to look into this, just to many faults at once, not sure what is going on here and have been doing this for 30 years now.
