2001 Hyundai Accent - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Both cooling fans should run continuous when A/C is on. Switch A/C off to avoid Blown head gasket hazard.

the alternator is not charging that can be from problem alternator , wiring ,fuse , voltage regulator, incorrectly adjusted alternator drive belt or dead battery best have an accredited auto electrician check it out by bench testing the alternator and voltage regulator and load testing the battery loose or dirty /corroded battery terminals will also be a part of the problem if the voltage regulator is integrated with the ECM , you will need a replacement ECM BUt get the proper diagnosis done first as that will save cash

Take it to a different tire store, and ask them to look for a separated belt or an out-of-round tire. The store that balance your tires should have caught that. A bent wheel is another possibility Or: On a lift, slowly rotate the tire, standing 6-8 feet behind the car and watch the edges of the tread -- see if they "wobble" from side to side. That's a bad tire. Or: Rotate tires front to back and see if the problem shows up in the steering wheel.

if the pump pressure is within the specifications ( 45-65 psi) it will sat in those specification driving or stationary a vacuum brake booster will cause the problems if it has a diaphragm leak when the brakes are activated but will not show as a code vacuum leaks from vent controls , transmission actuator lines or unit will also cause the problem and again will not show as a code

Hi, this cabin filter is not the air filter, this is the A/C filter located behind the glovebox, remove a couple of screws and a bigger nutt, and the filter is located in a vertical box.

Was it running before you worked on it? If so, double check your work. Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. Did you check good voltage and ground for fuel pump motor at the wiring connector? If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure, I don't care if the pump is new, check fuel pressure, anyway. Also, check fuel injector pulse. Only crank the starter motor a few seconds at a time, let it cool off. Are there any applicable trouble codes? How long since over-all tune-up?

Did the car start before you installed the new pump? Did you have fuel pressure? Do you have poser to the fuel pump? Do you have a good ground at the fuel pump? what engine do you have? Why did you replace the fuel pump? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

have you looked underneath the alternator ? it is only small capacity filter screwed into engine block

it should tell you on the cap of the oil what oil and start with 4 qrt and then let sit for a few minutes then chec dipstick usauly its 5 qrts

Cracked? Like split open!? There may be fine casting marks in the coil/s that may resemble cracks and this is normal. As long as the coils are functional and spark is not grounding out from them, you should be ok

The oil will be originating higher up on the motor. Most likely you have an oil leak in the Cam cover gasket and some of the oil is running down and pooling in the spark plug cavity. Cam cover gaskets often need to be replaced periodically in any event and you do have a 14 yo car. It is difficult to be certain without inspecting your engine but that is where I would look first. Just carefully soak up the oil in the cavity with some paper towel and cloths. (If the cam cover gasket has been replaced previously you may get a leak eventually because they are often not tightened evenly at the correct torque setting or are over tightened and the cover can distort and the gasket can be over compressed). Once you have cleaned up the oil around the S/plug , if you then clean the engine around that area and above it thoroughly you may be able to spot the source of the oil leak once the new oil starts running out. Just tip a small amount of kerosene or degreaser on your cleaning cloths and work around the engine with the dampened cloths to remove oil and grime. Then inspect the engine after a few hours of running and see if you can see where the oil is coming from.

Hello, you need to go to a shop and have a mechanic test your battery and the alternator, something isn't working right or you wouldn't have to give it a boost in order to start the car.

TIMING BELT Zoom and Print Options TIMING BELT Zoom and Print Options DISASSEMBLY 1. Lift the vehicle by using of jack. Zoom and Print Options 2. Remove the engine support bracket. (14 mm bolt and 2 nuts, 17 mm bolt) 3. Remove the power steering belt. 4. Remove the air conditioning compressor belt. Zoom and Print Options 5. Remove the alternator belt. Zoom and Print Options 6. Remove the coolant pump pulley. Zoom and Print Options 7. Remove the crankshaft pulley. Zoom and Print Options 8. Remove the timing belt cover. Zoom and Print Options 9. Move the timing belt tensioner pulley toward the coolant pump and temporarily secure it. Zoom and Print Options 10. Remove the timing belt.NOTE: If the timing belt is reused, mark with an arrow to indicate direction of rotation (on the front of the engine) to make sure that the belt is reinstalled in the same direction as before. 11. Remove the camshaft from the camshaft sprocket. 12. Remove the crankshaft sprocket and flange. 13. Remove the timing belt idler. Zoom and Print Options 14. Remove the timing belt tensioner. INSPECTION SPROCKETS TENSIONER PULLEY, AND IDLER PULLEY 1. Check the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley for abnormal wear, cracks, or damage. Replace as necessary. 2. Inspect the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley for easy and smooth rotation and check for play or noise. Replace as necessary. Zoom and Print Options 3. Replace the pulley if there is a grease leak from its bearing.INSPECTION TIMING BELT 1. Check the belt for oil or dust deposits. Replace, if necessary. Zoom and Print Options 2. Small deposits should be wiped away with a dry cloth or paper. Do not clean with solvent. Zoom and Print Options Zoom and Print Options 3. When the engine is overhauled or belt tension adjusted, check the belt carefully. If any of the following flaws are evident, replace the belt with a new one. Zoom and Print Options REASSEMBLY 1. Install the flange and crankshaft sprocket as shown. Pay close attention to their mounting directions. 2. Install the camshaft sprocket and tighten the bolt to the specified torque. Tightening torque Camshaft sprocket bolt:.....80 - 100 Nm (800 - 1000 kg-cm, 59 -74 ft. lbs.) 3. Install the idler and tighten the idler bolt to the specified torque. Tightening torque Idler bolt: .....43 - 55 Nm (430 - 550 kg-cm, 32 - 41 ft. lbs.) Zoom and Print Options Zoom and Print Options 4. Align the timing marks of the camshaft sprocket (A) and camshaft bearing cap (B). Then align the timing marks of crankshaft sprocket and front case with the No. 1 piston placed at top dead center on its compression stroke as shoved in the illustration. Zoom and Print Options 5. To install the timing belt tensioner, first mount the tensioner, spring, and spacer. Temporarily tighten the bolts. Next, temporarily tighten the tensioner long hole side washer and bolts. Install the bottom end of the spring against the front case as shown in the illustration. Zoom and Print Options 6. Secure the tensioner, positioned towards the water pump. Zoom and Print Options 7. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft sprocket. (1) Crankshaft sprocket - (2) Timing belt idler - (3) Camshaft sprocket - (4) Timing belt 8. Install the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket. When the timing belt is installed on the camshaft sprocket, make sure that the tension side is tight. Then, check to ensure that when the tension side is tightened by turning the camshaft sprocket in a reverse direction and all timing marks are in line. 9. Tighten the tensioner bolts. Tightening torque Tensioner attaching bolt: .....20 - 27 Nm (200 - 270 kg-cm, 15 - 20 ft. lbs.) 10. Turn the crankshaft two turns in its operating direction (clock-wise) and realign the camshaft sprocket timing mark with the top dead center position. Zoom and Print Options 11. Then recheck the belt tension Verify that when the tensioner and the tension side of the timing belt are pushed in horizontally with a moderate force approximately 49N (11 lb)], the timing belt cog end is approximately 1/2 of the tensioner mooting bolt head radius (across flats) away from the bolt head center. Zoom and Print Options 12. Install the timing belt cover. Tightening torque Timing belt cover bolt: .....8 -10 Nm (80 - 100 kg-cm, 6 - 7 ft. lbs.) 13. Install the crankshaft pulley. Make sure that the crankshaft sprocket pin fits the small hole in the pulley. Tightening torque Crankshaft pulley bolt: ......140 - 150 Nm (1400 -1500 kg-cm, 103 - 111 ft. lbs.) Zoom and Print Options 14. Install the water pump pulley. 15. Install the alternator belt and adjust the belt tension. 16. Install the air conditioning compressor belt and adjust the belt tension. 17. Install the power steering belt and adjust the belt tension.

If you get nothing on AM or FM the problem could be the antenna.

First thing I would do is make sure you have Coolant in the Engine. Second thing I would do is ensure there is NOT an Air Pocket that is causing it. Third thing I would do is ensure the Sending Unit is not broke (quite common), then Test the Gauge and one of the above will fix it 95% of the time

that autozone sales person should have asked when is the last time it had a tune up... ie, spark plugs etc... reset the ecu/ecm and clear the codes... see if the same codes come back to verify look for vacuum leaks first if you already done a tune up by changing those worn spark plugs, etc P1123 Hyundai Long Term Fuel Trim Error System Rich P0108 MAP Pressure Circuit High Input and the 0300's have something to do with your ignition components; i'll let you google those since i googled the first 2 for you

Most of the headlights do not unbolt to change bulbs. If it's a blown bulb you're trying to replace, look on the back side of the headlight housing. There should be a plug with wires attached going into the back. This plug should twist either to the right,left or up or down. Once you've twisted this plug out of the headlight housing you'll see the bulb you need to replace. Unplug the wire harness from the blown bulb and place it into the new bulb, being careful not to touch the new bulb with your bare hands as any oil or other contamination will cause these bulbs to blow as soon as they are turned on. Place the new bulb with harness back into the socket in headlight housing and twist into position.

not usually, hitting the valves is often the end of the engine or at least requires a major rebuild.

If you are starting from scratch as long as the crankshaft pulley notch is at the TDC mark on the engine, then the #1 piston is at TDC.

I certainly hope you meant crankshaft and not camshaft. As far as the pistons are concerned on most 4 cylinder engines if 1 & 4 are up then 2 & 3 are down. If you don't have the crank positioned with all four pistons at mid-stroke, then chances are if you rotate the camshaft you will break or bend valves since this engine is an interference engine.