20 Most Recent 1995 Geo Tracker - Page 2 Questions & Answers

old post welding with battery connected can roast good electronics. this warning is in every builders book, in print. the voltage is too high for modern electronics and 10x for old like this relic. you lost park id bet welding did not damage parks. blinkers yes, ECU EFI engine and TCM transmission controls ouch. parks have huge numbers of lighs you blew the Tail dome fuse NOT GROUND CONNECTIONs too many there, all cant fail. schematic is here,its simple then http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20electrics/all-lamps95b.pdf

old post 95 tracker. ALL four corners dead and dash (warn lamp dead) in cluster do you hear i flash, click click???? first is fuses, but there are 2 . http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20electrics/all-lamps95b.pdf page 2 see that. are the 2 blink/has fuses good. test good not just LOOK good after all if a feed is shorted you will blow both. (tested) the blinker module ,usually dont fail its electronic and robust. fuses good, then the black wire ground cut or rusty a body G200 it uses, and if bad usually kills the engine. yellow-white must be 12vdc blinks on. key on switch is bad. i bet this is ok the relay green is OUTPUT if the blinker has power it clicks if it green wire flashes with test lamp the blinker module is good if the output of the blinker switch is dead L and right the switch is bad. assumes both left and right sides not shorted. to ground.

very old post (8v or 16valve engine/??) cranks, but will not start easy http://www.fixkick.com/nostart.html no engine runs with one cylinder firing, or 3 misfiring. want to guess, or test? want to buy tools what to learn to use them (motivated?) if not, get car serviced. questions which engine,? how many miles one engine(odometer)? ever got tuneup in last decade or every 60,000 miles? repeats. with cam belt? if tuned up? was.... check spark timing now.... if way off (retarded?) that means the cam belt slipped a 5 minute check and bam, omg this engine has the 60k rubber band.... hark.

old post 2wd or 4wd? most never leak, most are valve cover gasket distributor 0rings bad. or seals. on front. x2 doing is 2 ways engine out, i bet you have no hoist. the link is here, even the real FSM pages there. fsm=factory service manual.. or SM, but sm sounds naughty. http://www.fixkick.com/axles/Pan-drop/pandrop.html a top hit on goggle now for 5 years. many contributed photos, that make so easy i bet it still leaks after. ask how to find TRUE cause. can do.

very old post, you mean pull and put back distrib or remove its bottom gear,????????? click 8v or 16valve engine, not stated http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/index.html covers all ways to do it right, and how to un-do the wrong ways..... not fun.... short class match mark distrib, to housing. cap off crank at TDc MARK 0 DEGREES Rotor in distrib. points to #1 spark wire if not turn crank CW, 1 full turn back to same spot rotor is on #1 now ,not #4 remove distrib. put back ,with rotor, to #1 and match marks aligned end. if frisky set timing, now per above. link, with the timing freeze jumper planted in the DLC connector. to hood sticker spec....!!!!

Something has let go. take it back where you got it replaced.

Should be 1-3-4-2 with number one being at the front of the engine. Rotor turns counter-clockwise.

Front wheel drive not operating Front wheel drive not operating Does it have manualhubs? If so, try disassembling the hubs and cleaning them. This happened to me after a while. I try to engage the 4WD at least once a month for 5-10

That is safe to prevennt the smoking. But try to find the wire shortening out with a tester.

G16engines.. (it's really a suzuki sidekick or vitara) with GEO tags. on that year, 1995 they had 2 engine both marked VIN 0 the 8valve and 16valve. and work totally different EFI wise. but are both going to fail for the same basic reasons like all gas engines do (petrolina) lets do " not restarting":... it's more easy,, first my useless wild guess, as popular here. never did a tune up?, this decade?, the 60k mile list. spark parts, filters and cam belt , as seen here, and opr, guide? http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tune-ups.html guess 2: EGR stuck open. the 50k tune up step checks this. Guess 3: the CAT is melted. engine cant pump air, vacuum readings horrid, easy test ask. if not caused by lack of basic service, then it's a real and random failure. not tuneup related. that can be 50 things. (like a valve spring busted, and more......) what your mech will do, is do is use the laws of physics and use real tools to measure those parameters to see what is wrong. 1: lost 12vdc to the EFI (dome fuse, IG-coil, or FI fuse?) 2: CEL lamp in cluster dead, key on ("check engine light") if dead the PCM is dead. there will be no spark or fuel with a dead PCM eva.. 3: we then crank engine, it cranks great, if not its a no crank engine. if it cranks good (fast) we check spark next. because no spark you cant burn fuel. and loss of spark detected by the PCM brain, cuts FUEL NOW. (fire safety) 4: I then check spark timing, if way off (retarded is common) the cam belt slipped back to square one, tuneups never done. 5: next is compression if all cyinders are at say 80psi again the cam, belt slippped..... if one is dead, then warped head or burned valves is common. 6: last is fueling so we try test fuel. if you spray test fuel into the intake or plenum does engine run ok for 3 seconds, ? no, then you failed to do all steps above. yes, good, then the fueling is dead. if you can get this far we can do fueling checking fueling on 8v and 16v is different . single injector or 4 injectors, TBI/MPI engines. but the fuel filter test port must be 30 pSI cranking. not 0 ,not 10, not 20, 30 or more. not 60, or it will flood. both systems are covered here. http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html more facts or tests. sure are all spark plug tips wet with gas, or dry? can you start engine using the operators guide way? using WOT, wide open throttle, (clears flooding) start it with 5-10% throttle (right foot action) may be the ISC is stuck closed,killing startup air supply. if car will start later can you save the stall with fast right foot actions.??????? lots more ask, but do tell what engine you have and do insert the diagnostic jumper and see if there are DTC errors cranking the magic paper clip tests http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes the 1cent test. got code 41 or 42?/?????????

won't crank robustlyor cranks fast at crankshaft but engine fails to startor engine starts and stalls fast.which is it?

Because of the plastic gear on the odometer shaft is some teeth . You'll have to replace the entire speedometer . Or take the vehicle to a shop that does those types of repairs. I went to the junkyard and bought the entire instrument cluster for under 50.00$ . Did it myself. Tedious job don't be in a rush could break something else. .

Can replace ignition switch w/used unit for around $100

the 5speed box. sure, but is the clutch bad or the shift lever. bad. ? so can you start car in gear with clutch depressed.? yes, no. (or jerks car body)( "cant" does that mean tranny is stuck in netural/ or does it mean the clutch drags and the shifter will not shift in any gear? or grinds> or cant means the clutch slips in all 5 gears and Reverse.? or can mean parts 27 bad. http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/rails.JPG all the checks are here http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html

a rare car and x10 more rare the hard top. (hard top and hard to fix) 2door car? what top is there, BRAND? Rally Tops or "Best top", (no lolnger made but call them if yours is this) rear hatch lid damper rods, (gas type) about the #1 hardest thing to buy on cars, like this. ok, mine failed too. and "best top " and others wanted a fortune for new ones. so i bought generic, by length,etc. the top is either dealer installed or aftermarket, and may be Best Top brand, see logo there, mine had that tag. the factory parts list. http://ge.tt/8vB7JU91/v/0 and its not there. i cant find it there, but there it is to look. you will find there are 3 factors to know buying Generic . 1: lenght extended 2: lenght compressed. 3: damp factor (guess) 4: fittings match up. http://www.bansbach.com/index.php/en/products/gas-springs/gas-springs/types googling works here. http://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/ 1st two hits.

very old post but here it is for searchers. there are 2 boxes, on cab, one bay (engine) both are here, 14 years span http://www.fixkick.com/Elect-fail-index.html#Fuses even the missing lid for cab box, is here. http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/fusepanel-left-knee1w.jpg

the instructions on all new gates belts have that, and Dayco. G16 a engine or B engine, the steps are different, the 8valve ""A" engines needs valves lash set very loose. G16A (TBI engine 8v) black top engine. http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt8v.html G16B MPI , 16valve (top of engine shouts, 16 vavles) http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html the factory pages are there and the maxed out steps way is there. every itty bitty steps, and the 15 ways to mess it all up. see those false timing marks they used the cam cog wheel on 2 engines, one 3 cylinder other 4. making this tricky, if not alert. the tracker the GM badged car has a vin that tells what engine, vin 6 or VIN U 6 is for 16 valves and a GM RPM tag on the glove box. LS5 = 8v LO1 = 16v ufiche actual http://www.fixkick.com/specs/RPO/RPO.html make sure the bottom crank bolt 17mm head is at 94ft/lbs first or BOOM.

on any car you just turn the steering wheel all the way side to side like 4 times it bleeds the system

You have replaced the alternator because? Did you check to see if it was any good before you replaced it? The charging rate is controlled by a regulator either in the alternator or in the ECM. The connections in the entire circuit have to be good. Check the grounds and connectors in the circuit. The condition of the battery is also important. If the battery doesn't have any capacity left the alternator wont get enough current flow through the field to power the alternator. You might need the services of a professional.