20 Most Recent 1995 Geo Prizm - Page 6 Questions & Answers

I think that the hard steering and the charge light is telling you that the drive belt is missing or is badly need of replacing as the common unit to both your problems is the drive belt.

my guess , your first time?if first time, dont. no really, but do use real jack stands. got them?but if must? with no safety training. ?????then RTM.it's all here.alldata dot com.there are 17 steps, (off)]here they are (pasted)_

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel.
2. Disconnect the ABS speed sensor, if equipped.
3. Remove the halfshaft nut.
4. Remove the brake caliper and support it out of the way .Remove the disc brake rotor.
5. Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle.
6. Separate the ball joint from the knuckle.
7. Remove the 2 nuts and bolts securing the steering knuckle to the strut.
8. Remove the steering knuckle and hub assembly.
9. Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
10. Remove the dust deflector.
11. Use a slide hammer and extractor tool J-26941 or equivalent, to remove the inner oil seal.
12. Remove the snapring.
13. Using hub puller tools J-25287 and J-35378 or equivalents, remove the hub from the knuckle.
14. Remove the brake splash shield.
15. Using a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inside and outside inner bearing races from the hub.
16. Remove the outer oil seal.
17. Position the steering knuckle on support tool J-35379 or equivalent. Remove the bearing from the knuckle using a plastic hammer and remover tool J-35399 or equivalent, and driver handle J-8092 or equivalent.

end off , see manual for install.

out? off?the tool is called, a timing light, and is about a $20 tool.slowly start pulling up to speed.that includes, going up hill at wide open throttle at full power?BTW1 , it s toyota engine. (not rare or odd at all)engine power loss (no bad fuel) can be only 3 things1: engine bad, lost compression (valve lash never SET:????)2: bad spark and includes, bad timing. old spark plug wires cap .,rotor.3: bad fueling. (under or over, weak fuel pump pressure)a mech discovers that first.this engine, has DIS, no distributorand the book says, no spark timing. that means its fixed by the cam/crank sensors.ever tune it up , using the op. guide in the glove box> (free on line)every 60k miles a full tune up, ? if not, why do that now?there are 2 toy engines, used, 1.6L and 1.8l and there areunique service data for each, working with out a book (FSM)or using alldata.com for facts, hear, means failure.the VIN shows the 2 engines, vin 6 code or vin 8.so does the RPO tag in glove box.this is an EFI car, and we first look to see what type.this car is MPI, multipoint injection,not TBIthe key fact that makes diagnosis much more easy.the timing spec, (USA are you) is printed under the hoodopen hood look up, see that? BTDC timing? 10deg BTDC?step 9 in the FSM"Using a fused jumper wire, connect terminals E1 and TE1 together at the DLC." (i use a paper clip)this is the timing freeze jumper allowing you to adjust the distributor to hood spec timing.ok , compresion is above 150psi WOT.ok ,tuned up, 60k mile list, (filters and spark parts ,dont skip fuel)ok , we made it to step 3 bad fuelingthe classic:1: too much fuel 2: too little. fuel.we check that the coolant thermostat hits and holds 180F or more. HOLDS ! if not , all else is useless. of temps are low it will flood with fuel... bingo.too lean?1: low fuel pressure.2: bad O23: clogged injectors, bad fuel?too rich1: too high fuel pressure. (bad reg)2: bad 023: leaking injectors. (2 causes)that is the flow, the logical flow. for sure if the ECU is getting bad inputs, the injection rateswill be wrong. and some ECU go to limphome.ever lean to read the ECU flash codes?this engine DOHC the 2 cams are gear driven side by sidebut has belt from crank to cam.it lasts for 60k miles, and slips. bad.its on the service schedule. to replace it.if it slips power is lost about 80% or more. bad cam,is result.my online source is weak on GEO.;s so can not tell if this engine uses a MAF sensorit too ,dead or weak can cause huge power loss.Toy says 4A is map systemtoy shows 7A as,stroked out 4A, and has MAP tooMAPs never fail (well, hose leaks?) MAFs do.(easy)they used 2 engines all years. second gen car.1.6 L 4A-FE I4, 105 hp (78 kW)1.8 L 7A-FE I4, 105-115 hpconclusions: can be easy as a tuneup? duh factor, 1.or bad fuel pump. or reg. bad.?bad wiring to pump. low voltage to pump.bad injectors.to find it , we have lots of tests.doing them in order saves timein a real shop we have 5 gas, and start at the tail pipeend and work forward.eg; all this puppy is real rich and expells oxygen. (misfire)see>?DIY is a unique way to fix carsDIY with no tools is a comic show.and worse?no way to use alldata.com (use it)

it's the perfect are,it runs on dark energy.! (LOL)now the oil companies will steal it at night. Im sure.sorry, just joking, here is the real answer.(the ignition wire is hot all the time due to bad igntion switch ,bad wires to same or someone has hacked the wiring )

Sounds like the battery dies, or the alternator has stopped charging and the battery lasted as long as it could. Battery water, voltage while off and then while running if you can jump it.If you think the battery is good, take the alternator off and take it to the parts store and test it, if it is neither of those 2 , then the computer died. Check it out.

Your Fuel pump has Died and will need to be Replaced.

you have a short, and was installed by Klingons.no fuse.RTM and install this time with fuse of the correct size.

"will I be", no one can speak for your skills, time or cash, why ask that. ask how, how much, or how long.(so will answer that)the prizm has , Toyota engine.lets answer easY way;1: you can in fact put any engine and any trans in to any car.any true pro, can do that. it's not magic. (plasma cutter and all)and a lot of hard work.i many cases, in usa it's illegal ,but we skip that.you did not state the exact transmission, you wanted.out of what car, or what year.ever price them $$$ ? they run more that the whole car , like $1000?and finding a uses good 5sp,. that be hard, after 18 years.here are the parts (wiki paste) see toy engine?Body style 4-door sedan 5-door hatchback Engine 1.6 L 4A-FE I4 1.6 L 4A-GE I4, 105 hp (78 kW) 1.6 L 4A-GE I4, 130 hp (97 kW) Transmission 5-speed manual 3-speed automatic 4-speed automaticOk, ill not post the 20 things that need to be changedwhat I will do is teach you to fish,I present the FSM. (better is a GEO parts list used)the answer is here.(tranny, tranny TCM brain, harnesses, mounts.you can see in the FSM.if you have never done , tranny swaps cars?,why do that? you have a month of free time?why not sell this old car, and get one with the 5sp.http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.htmlbe cheaper, faster and will save vast effort and time.$1000 to $1500 for old and get the 5sp car for same.KBB prices.

opsi think you mean, I disconnected , rigth?and the wire hit ground and the switch was one the fuse will blow.its a huge fuse, and may take out others. up stream.the car has fuses under dash (cab) and under hood, one is blown.

Only a professional can do testing up to the PCM ,to eliminate all other items & wiring issuesYou could if you have wiring diagrams for your vehicle& know how to use a volt meter & not ground out the pcmwhile doing your testingThey don't fail often,so I would be testing the entireengine compartment & all systems

When you hooked power directly to the fuel pump, it may not have been grounded properly. If you're running power directly to it, and it is grounded properly, it should work fine, unless the fuel pump itself if bad. There is something called Ohm's law. it says you have to have power and a ground to transfer electricity. I am at a loss on where the fuel pump relay is. If the pump won't work with direct power, I can't imagine it being the relay.

alternator not putting out enough voltage,possibly bad regulator

by your accumulator is on back of engine. some have em on the radiator. will be a cylinder with a second small radiator. should be clear line on top to see freon level. if u see bubbles need a/c repaired bc u cant have air inside cause it means u have a leak

You have some otyher issue here besides the pressure problem.

could be crankshaft sensor.

check fuel pressure could have clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump.

find a mechor read the bookebay has prizm fSM for $20