20 Most Recent 1995 Geo Metro - Page 4 Questions & Answers

well , you can run any metro all belts off. to see WHO squeals.then when that is discovered. then look at what is DRIVEN bay said belt.and check that for bearing siezed.or at the least set the tension to spec.the spec, is at alldata dot cam, all time time.typical is 1/2" deflection with 22 lbs force. on v belts.Serps are diff, animal.

Return the part,and go to napa and ask for the Echlin brand O M E part.

its broken , replace it.

code 13, (Oxygen sensor reads wrong)this means the ECU, can not control the fuel mix.EFI is out of control.it dont know why, only a mech. can find this out with tools doing tests.

Most likely not a fuse link rather it is the plug that plugs into the fuse block located under the dash panel right above your left foot. Follow the wires from the column down to the fuse block . Unplug it and look for a burnt connection you can wire around it with little difficulity . I usally take the block out and solder a wire in to the back then clip that burnt wire and conect them together and problem is solved. Tip some dielectric grease on all plugs make them easy to reconnect and avoids further burnouts . Good luck

BASICS, BASICS, BASIC......**CHECK PLUGS, WIRES, FUEL FILTERS, RUN CAR AT HIGHER RPM AND SPRAY CARB CLEANER DIRECTLY INTO CARB, CHECK (WITH SPRAY CAN OF CARB CLEANER) FOR VACUUM LEAKS BY SPRAYING ALL AROUND INTAKE AREA, VACUUM LINES ETC...IF IDLE SMOOTHS OUT OR RAISES..CHANCES ARE THERES A VACUUM LEAK

I agree. It sounds like you are not going into overdrive or lockup.

remove holder, remove and screw in lamp

it only works in reverseand that is park lock out feature , there is s defeat lever on the side of the shift console. lost your operators guide, its there.in fact both books are here the op guide and fsm.the later shows how to fix the lockout.https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Category/5-suzuki-owners-manuals.aspx

renault in metro forum?

You have to close brackets star wheel is pushing them.

Changed the head on my geo metro now it wont starthat is easyyou timed the cam wrongor just the dizzy.the former , changes the latter, so cam is first.

it takes only 3 things. to run.1: good motor, compression test. (we do that after any head swap)2: good spark and spark timed right. you need a book to follow there.3: good fueling, not flooding and not starving.if #1 and 2 are good, then you can use test fuel to see if motor runs on test fuel (cut fuel pump for test)in that order, and there are simple tests for each.

may be you should make a diagnostic and you can do it in a garage or you can do it by yourself if you want to do it by yourself you need some tools and you can find some good ones here: spobd2.com

check fuses Use a multimeter, I had fuses look OK That were bad more than once

should be under hood or on right side strut tower or most parts places will give u a diagrams goodyear belts have them on them

spray some starterfluid in there see if ur getting gas. check ur plugs and gaps. cap, rotor if none of that it may be a coil pack or the ICM a way to check the coil pack is to remove one of the spark plug wires from the cap an rotor an hold it close but not tuching the cap and turn it over to see if there is a spark if so that means the coil is good

1st check inside and under hood fuse boxes for bad fuses, smell boxes, if wiring went bad should smell baked wire smell around boxes. you can run wires direct from lights to battery or through $5 switch installed into your dash (autozone etc) to fix cheaply

The other sensors whereby the computer controls spark timing, are the Crank Position Sensor, and the Cam Position Sensor (sometimes called the pick-up coil, inside the distributor).