20 Most Recent 1996 Geo Prizm - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Below is the master help link provided to go through belt routing diagram:---Timing belt, drive belt, serpentine belt, accessory belt, fan belt, engine belt routing diagrams for all types of car models? Click the link below: ----

http://carbeltrouting.blogspot.in/2012/02/timing-beltdrive-beltserpentine.html ----------This will help. Thanks.

You battery may be faulty or worn out and needs replacing especially if it is 3 or 4 years old.

check your fuse box had a ign fuse blow on my 196 geo and did the same thing

There is one filter.

power actuator for lock is froze up must be replaced .

Open the hood of your Prizm and locate the negative battery terminal on the battery. Loosen the clamp bolt on the negative battery cable end with a wrench and remove the cable from the battery terminal. Isolate the battery cable from the battery terminals while you are working.

2 Locate the serpentine belt tensioner on the front of the engine; it is on the left as you look at it from the front. Place a breaker bar and socket on the bolt in the center of the tensioner and rotate it counterclockwise, releasing the tension on the belt.

3 Slide the belt off the tensioner, rotate the tensioner back to the free arm position, and then remove the belt from the rest of the pulleys. Discard the old belt and install the new belt onto the pulleys, paying careful attention to the belt path.

4 Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise with the breaker bar and socket, then slide the belt onto it. The path for the belt is printed on a sticker placed under the hood of the car, normally on the radiator support, so be sure to follow it if you are unsure how the belt is routed.

5 Rotate the tensioner clockwise, allowing it to tighten the belt. Remove the socket and breaker bar from the tensioner, then install the negative battery cable on the battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench and close the hood.

• If you want to dig into the timing belt you can but I would start by replacing the dizzy, if it were me. No junkyard parts for this. Re-manufactured if not new.

• Hope this helps.

regards,Tony

The air flow through the EGR is usually detected by a DPFE (differential Pressure Feedback Exhaust) sensor. The DPFE is connected by two pipes/ports on the exhaust feed pipe leading to the EGR. This sensor measures the pressure difference (differential) in the two pipes when the EGR is open; the more open the EGR the more the pressure imbalance detected by the DPFE. If the pipes/ports to the DPFE become clogged or the sensor malfunctions, the signal to the ECU will be seen as incorrect as compared to how much the EGR has opened...'insufficient air flow'. It is just as likely for the DPFE to fail as the EGR when there are 'EGR problems' . Hope this gives you another thing to check

Sounds about right, the sensor is normally towards the back of the engine maybe by or under the oil filter (i'm not familiar with your car but the system is the same on most) normally held in place with 1 10mm spanner size bolt, it will probably have 2 very thin wires plugged into it. to remove it just disconnect the wiring plug and undo the bolt, then pull the sensor out. problems that happen with them is that they get carboned up on the end and sometimes cleaning them off and refitting cures the problem, if it doesnt then is "go buy a new one". It really isnt a hard job to once you find its location, other symptoms include the engine will start and run fine 9 times out of 10 then it just wont run at all. I hope this helps you as problems with the EMU which is the next step can be expensive.

IS LOCATED ON THE TOP OF THE BRAKE PEDDAL AND THEIR ARE 2 SCREW TO REMOVE IT AND A WIRE CLIP TO UN PLUG AND ITS OUT

It's a 12-step program for success.
1: Remove the battery cable so you don't fry yourself. 2: Pry the two little plastic covers from the dash just below the mid-line. A fingernail should do it, but perhaps a screwdriver or some such.
3: Get your socket set out, a #10 did mine, and undo those two bolts. The dash should come down and not off.
4: You will need to have your key in the ignition, not locked and not started I believe did it.
5: There is this little hole/tab on the bottom of either unit, the old or new, look at the new to get a good view.
6: Poke that little tab with the paperclip or some such. It should loosen the unit and if it doesn't pull right out, you probably have the key in the wrong position. Yank it out!
7: I had to pry pretty hard to get the plastic face off the old ignition switch, but it's pretty durable and it came off with a little effort. Stick it on the new one.
8: Slide the new unit in the hole in your dash. It's pretty obvious how it goes in, only one right way to do so. It should make a satisfying click once it is fully in. You're almost done!
9: This was the slightly tricky part, lifting the dash back in place. The right side went in easy, the left side needed a little muscle. BANG! It went in. Okay, not that tricky.
10: You might want to put the bolts back in and close up the dash, or maybe test the start to see if it works first. Up to you I guess. And put the covers back on, if you didn't lose them! I lost one, but it will show up, probably.
11: Turn the key and drive somewhere and trade in your 94 Geo for a decent vehicle! Okay, so this may not be an option, but as my heater core is almost totally shot and Winter is a few months off, it sounds like a good idea to me!
12: There is no step twelve, unless I forgot something but I don't think I did. Okay, pat yourself on the back, you did very well. Pretty easy wasn't it? I told you so. Them Geos were pretty well designed!


Tools you will need:
- Number 10 Socket (for dashboard bolts)
- A paperclip (for poking the little tab to get the old one out)
- Possibly a flat screwdriver or similar tool.
- Your old keys.

Additionally, I quote this generic procedure that could help like a reference guide to remove the ignition lock:

CAUTION
You must remove the steering wheel when replacing the ignition lock. On vehicles with a Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system, you must temporarily disable the SIR system and remove the inflator module when removing the steering wheel. Leaving the SIR system on could result in deployment of the air bag and possible personal injury.

• Disconnect the negative battery cable, and remove the steering wheel.
• Remove the bumper and the carrier snapring retainer from the steering shaft.
• Use a lock plate compressor screw tool to install the lock plate compressor screw in the upper steering shaft. To keep the shaft from telescoping, tighten it to 40 inch lbs.
• Using the lock plate compressor tool, install on the upper steering shaft, tighten it to depress the shaft lock. Remove the shaft lock retainer, the compressor tool and the steering shaft lock.
• Remove the turn signal canceling cam assembly. Put the turn signal switch in the "N" position and remove the upper bearing spring.
• Position the turn signal switch so the mounting screws can be removed through the holes in the switch and remove the turn signal lever.
• Remove the turn signal switch-to-steering column screws and lift the turn signal switch. Remove the wire protector and disconnect the turn signal switch connector.
• Use a terminal remover tool to disconnect the buzzer switch wires from the turn signal switch connector. Remove the buzzer switch assembly with needle-nose pliers.
• Place the lock cylinder in the ACC position, then remove the lock retaining screw and the lock cylinder set.
• To install the new cylinder lock, reverse the removal procedures.
• Tighten the lock retaining screw to 22 inch lbs., the turn signal switch screws to 59 inch lbs. and turn the turn signal lever screw to 53 inch lbs.
• As part of the final replacement procedures, check the operation of the switches and the steering column.

The steering wheel is splined to the steering column and held in place by a nut. Courtesy of General Motors Corporation - Service Operations.


Hope this helps.

I have a same problem. need help