Top 20 2005 Jaguar X-Type - Page 6 Questions & Answers

not sure but i think it may be low on fluid but their is no dipstick so its a dealer only job to check it out or a good garage as you will need a four poster lift to get under it to gain access

You cannot just lift the seat up you will have to Remove the entire seat Itself. Most seats on newer vehicles are removed by four bolts. you will see them if you roll the seat all the way back in the front then all the way forward remove those bolts and you can get under your seat

Black smoke is unburned fuel in mist form. Likely time for a tune up, including a new fuel filter.

would to have a play sorry but my first thought is the throttle pedal sensors .But as its a diesel your code reader is about as obsolete as a Model T you have to just know how a diesel works to get the feel for it then you will have a good idea whats wrong .

top of firewall where wiper motor is remove panel and look into the wells here their should be a drain either side and i think one or both are blocked with dead leaves or a whatever

Front or rear? Rear disc brakes too?

This could be master cylinder not fully releasing. Is pedal fully coming back to the stop? It needs to so it uncovers the ports to let the pressure release.
Also, try loosening the bleeder screws just a little to see if the calipers release.

Disc brake pads barely release by design, maybe just a few thousandths of an inchgap.

If pushing the button will not open the trunk (boot), you will need to remove the rear seats to access the trunk compartment. Pull the bottom seat off by simply prying it. The fold down back rests are locked from the trunk on top so you will have to unscrew the retaining bolts from the bottom of the back rest to flip the seats up. Once inside, you will find a yellow pull handle that manually opens the trunk where the striker is. Pull it and try to have the replacement peice ready so you don't have to go thru that again.

I think it is likely to be the abs control module.

Parking sensors on my Jaguar arn't working. Why?

it is a common misconception that you cannot tow an automatic car,you can, if you take precautions..car in nuetral,top speed 35mph,max distance 25 miles.this assumes that the gearbox itself is NOT damaged.Some people will tell you to drop the propshaft,some makers demand you do this, BUT thats because, like everything else in this world,one must take into account the IDIOTS out there.if the rear wheels rotate,tow the car.....(i expect a lot of techies to argue but in 40+years ive had NO trouble).

Its easy but access is a little difficult. I moved the hose a little out of the way to get a few extra mm by opening the battery cover and fuse box. Then on the light, just flip the 2 clips on either side of the black plastic cover to open. You will then see a centre electrical connector and a separate smaller one. The centre one goes on the bulb - just pull it off. Then there is a spring clip holding the bulb in - release both sides and take out the bulb. Put in a new bulb making sure never to touch the glass part. Reverse all the above and the job should be done.

Those are Relays in your engine compartment with micro fuses. R-9 (Black) Dip beam/HID (only if you are running HID in your car. R-10 (Black) is the relay for the starter motor.

First thing that comes to mind would be interference between tow bar brackets and tailpipe.

plastic feed tube in the rubber boot from door frame to tailgate is damaged ,well this is the most obvious fault ,but a jaguar estate car and i bet its diesel as well ?? not like a nice mk2 3.8 with overdrive or a XJ6 is it

Since its a newer vehicle it would the system is reading the condition and only gets a generic reason of why its getting a code via the ecm so it puts the car into limp mode to allow you enough to get the car safely to the shop without damaging I would try to clean the wastegate if not replace it with a used one I am sure its just build up causing this but they are hard to get at. Let me know if this helps and please remember to rate since its a free answer

would need to have a play but i would go for the idle control valve first ,then maybe the power steering where their is a sensor to increase idle when wheel is turned whilst stationary ,the sensor is on the rack housing where the steering wheel enters the rack

I would take it to autozone and have them scan it for trouble codes they do it for free and see what the code is then you can go on from there with further diagnosing...

your thermostat will have no bearing on your heater blowing cold air. My s type is kind of funny with its heating/cooling at times too as are several other models I've observed. Since your blower motor is working and blowing out air (cold or not) you may need to have your heater core replaced (part is around 140 excl labor if you have it installed) might be able to get you a diagram of my jtis software if you're a do it yourselfer. It takes a skilled mechanic several hours to remove the dash to r/r core. Very tedious and if you're not familiar with it I'd recommend having a free weekend to do so. I would pay to have mine replaced to give you a straight answer in this matter.

Your passenger front door switch is not working. Have it repaired or replaced. That will solve the problem.

It is possible to open from the inside, but causes a little bit of (hidden) cosmetic damage, so only do this if you have to get the boot open because it is completely jammed shut.

Remove the headrest from one of the sides of the back seat. I used the side where the smaller part opens when folding the seats down, but I would suggest you use the other side as once you get the seat down you have a bigger opening to let you get the other side down too.

The parcel shelf is in 3 parts, a wide centre part and 2 small endpieces which carry the slots for the seatbelts. Once the headrest is removed, insert a screwdriver into the join between the end-piece and the center part of the shelf, and lever the end-piece up an inch or so, grasp it and pull it up enough that a couple of clips disengage. Then, you will see that the centre part is now a loose fit. Next, using a sharp knife, a Stanley knife or similar, cut the centre shelf from the outside edge towards the middle, for about 30cm. Make this cut as far down at the back of the seat, and when you put it back and the headrest is reinstalled it will be invisible (well, almost)...the neater the cut, the less likely it will be seen afterwards.
Next, peel the centre shelf towards you, away from the rear window, until you can see a hole in the metal sub-shelf below. Ignore the two round central holes with cloth covering, but go for the elliptical hole near the side of the shelf.
Remember what the seat-back release cables look like in the boot? Held up with clips either side, the cables have a ribbed rubber sheath. Stick your hand in the hole into the boot and locate the cable. It will not be possible to unlock the seat release because the knob is out of reach (unless you have VERY long, bendy arms) but the clips are nt very secure, so just grasp the cable wherevr you can and pull hard to diislodge the clip. The cable will come away from its retaining clip, or actually, the clip will pull out of its housing and then you can simply fish the end out and release the seat-back.

Next, reach in and yank the other cable out too, or, if you can release the other seat-back easily in the normal way that would be better!
Now you can crawl into the boot.
With a screwdriver, remove the plastic cover that covers the boot-lock mechanism. A good torch is handy here! The 2 visible screws come out ok, but you will probably have to yank the cover off since you cant get at the bottom edge to ease it over the lock. Don't worry, it will split open, and can be popped back on later with no difficulty, just a small split in the plastic.
Finally, looking at the exposed lock, you will see a little lever with a hole in it, on the left hand side as you face the back of the car. Simply flick this up with your finger and the boot will open.

OK, it sounds complicated, but actually it took me just 20 minutes, 10 of which were used up trying to decide whether or not to cut the parcel shelf!
My mechanic has now fixed the problem so my boot opens as normal now, but I don't know what he did yet as he has gone on holiday and didn't tell me what had gone wrong, but it was certainly an electrical problem. However, his list of parts used lists only wire and terminals, so I don't think the solenoid was broken, just not getting power.
Anyway, until you get it fixed, just leave one of the rear seats unlocked, and you can crawl in and open the boot anytime.
Hope this helps! Colin