brakelight is out
Posted by Joe Joe on
2006 jeep liberty code u1411 tell me how to fix it
wow , no engine options stated, or type of driveline.... wow.
this is covered in the FSM, read that.
U1411-Implausible Fuel Volume Signal Received that means to get the car fully scanned,
using a real scan tool that sees all 2006, jeep DTC errors.
including BCM codes.
the manual tells you what to do.
here is just small expert from the Factory.serv.manual
Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)(Refer To List 1).
Theory of Operation
The BCM has to send the PCM a fuel volume signal over CAN C. The signal the BCM sends over CAN C is implausible.
1. ACTIVE DTC
Ignition on, engine not running.
With a scan tool read DTCs.
Is the DTC active at this time?
With a scan tool check for DTCs in the BCM.
Are any CAN C related DTCs active at this time?
that word CAN , means the vehicle network communications buss called CAN.
if the PCM can not TALK to the BCM. this can cause the
data to be wrong. and the
Implausible , data.
get it serviced by any ASE shop in town or if desperate JEEP.
Posted on Oct 03, 2014
Hi my 2006 Jeep Liberty won't start or turn over all keep hearing is this click sound when I turn the ignition , Plus I just replaced the battery .
Posted by Mike Mike on
Probably a starter. It sounds like the starter solenoid is working, but the starter motor is not energizing.
You could try this simple trick, but Im about 85% sure you have a bad starter.
Have a buddy help you push the vehicle in neutral for a short distance. When you get it moving at a walking pace, put the transmission in Drive, and let the vehicle come to a stop. You may hear a little clicking, but thats OK, it wont hurt anything. Put the transmission back in Park and try to start the engine again. Sometimes the starter gear gets stuck on the flywheel and it wont engage when you try to start the engine. This trick may move the flywheel a little so the starter can engage.
Posted on Mar 27, 2012
Block from home in zero degrees and notice solid red dot on right of dash. Turn off car , now I don't even get a click when I turn key. Dinging sound when I open door.
Posted by Kevin... on
lost the operators guide,
the red dot on mine, (open book) says SKIM no happy
IMMOBIZER active. but you never posted a photo. so???????
that no click is dead battery.
Jumper cable start car, call AAA tow.
i bet the head lights are dim too., or dead.
the make sure after it starts, that the charge lamp is not stuck on.
Posted on Feb 24, 2015
ac compressor clutch is making a noise is the clutch is replaceable without replacing compressor
Posted by remill60 on
I had the same issue with my 2006. I thought the compressor clutch bearings were faulty. After further research, the rattling noise was actually coming from the serpentine belt tensioner. Easy repair!
Hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 01, 2010
I have a slow battery drain on a 2006 Jeep Liberty. Pulling either fuse #34 from the dash fuse box or #7 under the hood (labeled JB Power) will eliminate the drain. According to the owner's manual #34 controls the interior lights, hands free radio control, etc. What is JB Power? Do you recommend replacing the appropriate module?
Posted by willworkfo... on
Jb power is Junction Block power
Here is a list of tests for this problom
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Junction Block (JB). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
ELECTRONIC MODULE IGNITION-OFF DRAW (IOD) TABLE Module Time Out?
(If Yes, Interval And Wake-Up Input)
IOD IOD After Time Out Radio No 1 to 3 milliamperes N/A Audio Power Amplifier No up to 1 milliampere N/A Central Timer Module (CTM) No 4.75 milliamperes (max.) N/A Powertrain Control Module (PCM) No 0.95 milliampere N/A ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) No 0.44 milliampere N/A Combination Flasher No 0.08 milliampere N/A 2. Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. 3. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 4. Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. 5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) , one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Fuse Locations and Types - Specifications) for the appropriate wiring information for complete PDC and TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
6. Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step #5 . The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or an inoperative component is the cause.
Posted on Jul 13, 2010
My 2006 Liberty will run fine and then intermittently display the P0335 code and the P0300 code. When the check engine light begins flashing, the vehicle will not rev above 2400 RPM's either parked or traveling. The engine just cycles, much like a anti-rev function is in place. It also becomes hard to start when this happens. I have had it to three different dealers and it has had the crankcase position switch, cam position switch, ECM, engine wiring harness and MAP sensor all replaced, some mulitple times. Still having the problem. When the engine light starts flashing, the skid light also comes on. I have spent around $3,000 on this vehicle and it still is not fixed. When the crankcase and cam position switches are re-syncronized by cycling the ignition switch several times, it will function perfectly for around 100 miles. Then it does the same thing again. If it wasn't for dumping a problem on someone else, I would have already traded it off a few months ago. Help! The dealers obviously have no training on this type of problem.
Posted by Boyce... on
Replace the crankshaft position sensor and you should be up and
running like normal. Verify that there is no power or ground problem to
the crankshaft sensor, the Yellow/Black wire should have battery
voltage any time the key is on and the main relay is energized.Verify
that the Brown/Yellow wire has a good ground. If all is good then
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) measures crankshaft location and relays this information to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). Depending on the vehicle, the PCM uses this crankshaft position information to time the spark properly or on some systems it is only for misfire detection and does not control spark timing. The CKP sensor is stationary and works in harmony with a reluctor ring (or toothed ring) that is attached to the crankshaft. As this reluctor ring passes in front of the CKP sensor, the magnetic field created by the CKP sensor is interrupted and this creates a square wave voltage signal that the PCM interprets as crankshaft position. If the PCM detects that there are no crankshaft pulses or if it sees a problem with the pulses on the output circuit, P0335 will set.
NOTE: If the crank sensor is used only for misfire detection and NOT spark timing (this varies with the vehicle), the vehicle should start and run with MIL (Malfunction indicator lamp) illumination. Also, some vehicles require several key cycles to illuminate the MIL. If this is the case, there may be no MIL illumination until the problem often enough over time. If the crank sensor is used for BOTH misfire detection and spark timing, the vehicle may or may not start. Symptoms may include:
Vehicle may not start (see above)
Vehicle may run rough or misfire
A P0335 "check engine light" code could be caused by:
Damaged CKP sensor connector
Damaged reluctor ring (missing teeth or not turning due to sheared-off keyway)
Sensor output open
Sensor output shorted to ground
Sensor output shorted to voltage
Failed crank sensor
Broken timing belt
Using a scan tool, check if, when engine is running or cranking, that there is an RPM signal.
If there is no RPM reading, then visually inspect the crank sensor and connector for any damage and repair as necessary. If there is no visible damage, and you have access to a scope, you could check the CKP 5 Volt square wave pattern. If you do not, then, obtain a resistance reading of your crank sensor from a repair manual. (There are so many different types of crank sensors that there's no way to put here which resistance reading is correct). Then check the resistance of the CKP sensor by disconnecting the sensor and measuring resistance of the sensor. (It is best to check resistance readings from the PCM connector. This rules out any wiring problems from the start. But it does require some mechanical skill and shouldn't be performed if you\'re not familiar with automobile electrical systems). Is the sensor within resistance specs?
If not, replace the CKP sensor. If so, recheck resistance reading from the PCM connector. Is the reading still okay?
If not, repair open or short in the wiring to the crank sensor and re-check. If the reading is okay, the problem is intermittent or the PCM may be at fault. Try reconnecting and checking for RPM signal again. If there is now an RPM signal, wiggle test the wiring harness to try and induce the fault.
This code is basically identical to P0385. This code P0335 refers to Crankshaft Posistion Sensor "A", whereas P0385 refers to Crankshaft Position Sensor "B". Other crank sensor codes include P0016, P0017, P0018, P0019, P0335, P0336, P0337, P0338, P0339, P0385, P0386, P0387, P0388, and P0389.
Posted on Dec 18, 2011
cruise will not come on or display a light on the dash that says its on. Is there a fuse for the cruise? A relay? Any know problems with the cruise on this model, and also the air bag light stays on. Thanks
Posted by uncfan1958 on
sounds like the clockspring is faulty under the steering wheel..
Posted on May 10, 2009
Engine totally bogs at 2200 rpm code P0204 comes up, changed injector, plugs, still come up
Posted on Mar 24, 2017
i have a 2006 jeep liberty and three lights are staying lit and cruise control won't work the light are the (esp/bas, Abs, Electric Stability Program )any suggestions would be helpful
Posted by darkangel7... on
You need to take the jeep to a dealer or a good mechanic who can retreive the codes out of the computer. You may have a module problem but I will not guess without knowing the codes.
Posted on Feb 11, 2009
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