20 Most Recent 1999 Lexus ES 300 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

You could try putting the ignition in the`ON`position(dash lights only) remove negitive battery terminal for 90secs with ignition still on re-connect the battery.If that fails find someone with a code reader to put the light out..Hope it helps...

the lights on dash button indicate a malfuntion system , securely the freon 134a is goen on

This is my drive cycle a generic drive cycle i have used many times over the years and it has never failed me most drive cycles are too specific and impossible to adhere to for most drivers follow these steps exactly 1. make sure all codes are cleared and no check engine light is on 2 make sure the fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4 full (this is part of the enable criteria for the evap monitor to run ) 3 let vehicle set overnight 4 start engine and let idle until the temp gauge is in the middle (this cold start enables the evap monitor and runs the O2 sensor heater test )5 drive vehicle around town avoid the highway stay at below 50 mph and when stoping at lights remove your foot from the gas and coast from around 50 to about 10mph or less if possible this will run the EGR monitor after about 3 to five miles of this proceed to the highway or freeway and travel over 50 but under 70 mph for about 3 to 5 miles this will run the catalyst test provided the O2 monitors passed if they didnt you will have a check engine light on before this point also i do a coast down on exit ramps (no braking) they make great places to get that EGR to run ONCE YOU START THIS PROCEDURE DO NOT KILL THE ENGINE OR SOME OF THE TEST WILL FAIL TO RUN

hi no more sin, the camshafts have the variable valve timing, not the air mass sensor which should be a black box at the end of the air intake snorkel closest to the engine. get it scanned by a technician to make sure you get the right information as to where to start.

First thing to check is the fuel filter. They're cheap so replace it and see what it does. At least you may get better mileage.

Shift solenoid E-circuit malfunctioning. Wiring, solenoid,ECM/PCM/TCM

Depends on the speed your driveing at, Around 2300 To 2500 , RPM.

P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit (Bank 2)
P1133 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P1135 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P1346 VVT Sensor Range/Performance Problem (Bank 1)
P1349 VVT System Malfunction (Bank 1)
P1351 Variable Valve Timing / CMP Sensor Range / Performance
P1354 Variable Valve Timing System Fault

NOTE:Variable Valve Timing (VVT) sensor is also known as camshaft position sensor.
The Variable Valve Timing (VVT) system controls intake valve timing in response to driving conditions.

Possible causes are:

1. Incorrect valve timing P1346, P1349, P1351 & P1354
2. Faulty oil control valve P1346, P1349, P1351 & P1354
3. Faulty VVT controller assembly P1346, P1349, P1351 & P1354
4. Faulty ECM All Codes
5. Jumped timing belt All Codes
   
6. Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor P1346, P1349, P1351 & P1354
7. Faulty O2 Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) P1133 & P1135
   

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

I doubt these problems have anything to do with each other.The shaking steering wheel could be an out of balance or bad tire(torn belt),a bent wheel,or improperly tightened lug nuts(not torqued evenly).The check engine light will require a code scanner to see what the code is.(if you work on your own cars,you might want to buy at least an entry-level code reader/clearer,some are under 50 bucks).

Any time the check engine light comes on the traction control will be disabled and the light will also come on. Start with scanning the engine computer for trouble codes to see why the check engine light is on. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa