1999 Lexus RX 300 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

No, nothing will drop down into the pan when it is removed. The only precaution that you will need to prepare for is the transmission fluid. Supporting the pan and directing the fluid can be messy. Wear safety glasses, lay down cardboard, have plenty of rags on hand and a large drain pan.

Is it a standard? If so sounds like the clutch is giving up and needs replacing. If it is an automatic then check fluid level might be low, that can cause slippage.

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Visit the on-line store, known as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. 1999 lexus rx300

what are the new codes clearing / resetting doesnt fix the problem the p0171 code has about ten different causes just changing or cleaning the sensor may not have been your problem P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1 rescan and get all codes then look up each one most sites have causes and solutions for obd ll trouble codes

Check the pressure in the fuel pump Check the fuel filter for dirt When there is weak fuel pressure, it generates this type of failure Also check the compression on the engine cylinders

Inspect the CV joint boots for damage. It's possible they are torn and have let road dirt into the grease causing premature wear. Have the automatic idle control valve cleaned or replaced.

run the fault codes to determine if there are any sensors operating out of set parameters your indications are that the HO2S sensors are not operating correctly or cannot set the ECM for the air/fuel ratio could be a problem MAP/Baro sensor, faulty injectors (spraying and not atomizing), low fuel pressure or simply at 17 years old or a guestimate Klm of around 340,000 klms the motor is a bit tired anyway run the fault codes first and then having a wet and dry compression test ( a qualified service mechanic will know what I mean) done will determine the engine condition

You have a problem in your Evaporative Emission Control System. Not much you can do without the right equipment. A mechanic needs to diagnose this with his testing tools. Good luck!

Yes it is absolutely.

I don't live in a state that has emission laws, but that code is emission related. It should be a simple fix, since it is an older car I would go in order of highest probability that either the line is broken, the solenoid needs to be replaced, or a break/corrosion in the wiring. There could be a couple of other things but unlikely.

Yes, looks normal, and good. Calculated load is not much meaning, as it changes constantly. ECT of, oh that is centigrade, not sure how that translates to Fahrenheit, but it may be low from not running long... Your fuel trims (both short term and long term-STFT, LTFT) are very good-showing that fuel is not being added or subtracted by the computer to maintain correct air/fuel ratio. Fuel trim numbers should be close to zero. It is when fuel trim changes by double digits-either positive or negative-that there is an indicated problem. For example, say you had a vacuum hose leak- sucking in extra air to the engine- then you could see STFT number go positive by double digits-meaning the computer senses a lean condition and is adding fuel to compensate. But your fuel trims show the air/fuel ratio must be correct-no change in fuel trims-the positive 2.3 in LTFT is negligible- not a problem.

Did you replace the short wiring harness to the knock sensor, if not that is likely the cause of the issue.

code p 0330 refers to knock sensor (KS)2 bank 2 ---circuit malfunction===causes wiring--KS---ECM it is possible that in changing the harness there is a problem connection or the connection to ks2 is not correct ( not on properly)

You have 2 of them,here's a link showing where their at,once you get to page,click on switch and relay. SENSOR KNOCK CONTROL 176 07 Fits LEXUS RX300 1993 2005 Part 8961512090... Here's a video showing you where they are at. 2000 Lexus Es300 Knock Sensor Location Repair

John, needs to be scanned to determine fault.

John, the computer will have to be scanned to find fault.

Electric solenoid is bad in the door.

have the fault codes read to see if it comes up could be a problem ECM unit that is shorting out when a component over heats and blows the EFI fuse

Contrary to popular belief, the battery light can be on even if the battery and alternator appear to be working fine. It is located in such a place as to indicate effective charging. What that means is that even if the battery is good and the alternator is outputting voltage (and current), the lamp lights to indicate that the vehicle is consuming more power than the alternator is producing. This is important since once running, if the alternator cannot supply all the vehicle's power needs, the battery is drawn on for the remainder, and will suffer draining as such. Most manufacturers provide alternators that produce more than enough power to operate their vehicles, but many owners add additional high-power audio systems and other items that can overwhelm the factory unit. You said the alternator was "tested"....was it load tested, or did they simply hook a voltmeter to it while the engine was running and saw 14.5 volts? This is important since a failing alternator may regulate its voltage properly, but may fall far short of the output current (power) needed to operate the vehicle. It is possible that there could be a defect in the battery amp circuit, but it is such a simple circuit that I would be more suspect of a charging system issue than I would of a faulty battery light. And no, there is no reset for it - as soon as the power balance returns to the positive side (car needs less than is produced), it will go out all by itself.