1987 Honda Accord - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

sounds like it's flooding. Pull a spark plug and see if it's wet with gasoline

Torque on small nuts and bolts is common sence most of the time There is a thick gasket under the carb then you have to take into account the grade of the bolt and the thread pitch and its size Aruel of thumb is the finer the theard and lower the pitch the more torque it requires because it will be a much higher grade of metal The bolts to your cabburtor are between 18 to 26 ft lbs you don;t want to distorut the gasket never over tighten with gaskets there job is to make a good seal good luck

There are no inline fuses on the stock vehicle. Was the a/c installed aftermarket?

1987 Honda Accord Workshop Repair Service Manual PDF Download for better result of your problem visit this site

I would definitely start with a pgm-fi relay they are prone to failure. they are however tucked way up under the dash

You did not clarify which motor you have. Here are both diagrams.

The fuel injected model:


And the carb model:

In mount repair is labor intensive but not a hard fix in the grand scheme of understanding. Just plan a full day and a half.

Sounds like it could most likely be something to do with your fuel pump. 1.) Video one may show you why your Honda started the few times it did but stopped .. Electrical solder connection potentially. fast forward to 1:48 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viIZ8k60awY 1.)The fuel pump relay is under the dash, in the fuse box. I would also suggest you check the fuel pressure. It should be 2.6 to 3.3 psi with the engine OFF and key ON. If it is a bad fuel pump, there is an access cover in the trunk that allows access to it without removing the fuel tank. 2.) See if this video resembles your start up problem this will cover your relay if there is a problem at all. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38DQ5IVQQ68 3.) Testing your fuel pump. This guys video Is a little slow but may help with your problem just fast forward to 1:20 in the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOF6nCImxNI If you need to buy parts I would recommend ebay for to get them much much cheaper than the local auto parts.. Usually comes in with in a few days.. Well let me know what you end up with from there I could help you further! BEST OF LUCK ! :)

Sounds like a possible vacuum leak Julie. Spray some carb/throttle body cleaner around the intake tubes/manifold while engine is running. If it sucks it in and the engine responds, you have a leak. Or you could have another idle control issue. Check (or have someone check) the vacuum leaks. If ok, post back and I will give some other things to check.

Look for a vacuum leak this would cause your problem..

double posted and still No country no engine. nor where your pump is . nor a photo of yours. zero. back up one post for full answer.

ok , did you connect the check jumper then crank for 5 seconds and see the 2 digit error codes blink out? That is first. if no codes check for spark the ECU will tell you ,I have no spark (precurors) from CMP or CKP. with codes for both. we fix those first. not spark output side is care tuned up, the 60k mile service points. fresh this decade?

Check fuse possible blower failure

wow a post back , you are the gem here, nobody ever does. thanks ok some transmissions the trans end very hard to detach. so that leaves one place left as you found. but here is the FSM , id bet you will find vast answers in a real official book on exact car. i bet. Reward: get em. put em. on a memory stick and bingo, 87s for life. http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

yes...Sounds like the shifter points are way off...to reach that you need to remove the center console the connecter in under the shifter...the other end of the cable feeds through the dashboard and connects to the tranny from under neath...

but drives ok other wise???? a KEY point. yes. (i guess) i can tell you , its , 1: EGR stuck open. clean it. 2: ISC jammed, clean it. 3: or tming belt slipped. (hopeless till fixed, and power will be low all the time. 4 or tuneups never done. (spark , and filter parts) 5: is the check engine lamp out running?if not get the blink codes. short list, the long list is 50 points.

very old post, so my last for old empty posts on honda'sill guess, cranks perfectly. (flooding is it?, or timing belt slipped. and next it bent valves? or far worse?)is this and EFI car or a carb car? what country; what engine?A20 or B20 engine.? A16? I think 1986 USA got EFI (PGM-FI)cars ran longer outside USA MARKET, (each car as a market , mine is KA (usa)why not read the free FSM.under no starts. see it. its free too, keep it on a memory stick.http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/

sound to me like a basic sloppy shifter, did you inspect the shifter and all parts associated?usually the synco dont stop shifts, only causes grindingunless, it is shattered. (rare that)it only matches speeds, so if cracked in half , you can shift bydouble shifting , like racers and truckers did for years, "crash boxes" RTMhttp://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/

check, ?ok all relaysthe relay is just a coil (mag) and a switch.many relays have just 4 pins.most main relays have 2 pins at 12v. one on the coil and one on the common contactor pin (input)the ECU/PCM grounds the other coil pin, the mag field inside builds and the contactor closes. and the contactor ouput pingoes to 12v and the ECU then powers up.HOW?how to check it, is easy, use a voltmeter, (never lies , like other ways)any DMM , even that cheap one at walfart works great.set the dial to 20vdc.conn, black lead to car body, metal.conn red lead to the 4 pins, 1 at at time and key on. (no start)if the 2 pins do not have 12v(input pins) the fuse is blown or some dork cut the wires to install some , accessory.now see the ECU ground the othe coil pin, 0volts, the relay is now energized, (coil must not read infinity removed)now check the output pin on said relay, if 0v , the relay is bad.if 12v, on this pin, well , the relay is 100% OK.to work on cars, you must learn electrics first, then how relays work. there are millions of web pages on this subject, ok , i went to alldata.com (so can you)and that car has 7 pin, MAIN relay.black yell and blue black pins are 12v keyon.yellow wire is fuel pump (early cars have 2 relays in one)black is ground, if open , all is dead ! must be 0vfuel pump enable line is green-black (ecu commanded) 0v when active, most cars take cranking to go active.the blue-red wire from crank fuse. sends 12v to pump relay coilfor crank pump action. and last but not least is the yell-black wire, this wire runs the ECUand all injectors. this is 12v key on. if not check all coil pins on main.i answered in the generic and exact.old post. but lots of old handa's still ,all this is on alldata.com or at mitchels.

great question. (running engine , no less)1: that means the lamps in the brakes (3amps?) is overloadinga 50amp Alternator. (impossible nearly) but ???orwiring errors.loose battery connectionsshorted brake lamps or wires to same.id the wrong size fuse in the brake fuse box.? if yes, you risk fire.did you try all other accessories, on car, to see if too, overloadsthe alternator (loose belt?O)1: head lights.2: cab heater fan on max3: defrost heater in rear of car window.4: all at onces?if ONLY brakes? DO IT?, then remove all brake lamps. now.and re test. brakes. no lamps.all answers for a stock car, if car is hacked, all my answers are useless. (hacking is infinite) (alarm hacks, remote start hacks, cruise hacks. are common and a PITA)