20 Most Recent 1986 Honda Accord Questions & Answers

You may have to saw through the stabilizer end links if they're that rusted. Remove the tire rod end from the knuckle. Remove the axle shaft nut. Lift the steering knuckle off the ball joint. Then pry the axle shaft out of the trans

I don't think you should try this on your own. Find a friend who has done a lot of mechanical work. not the job for a newbie.

It is on the multifunction switch, there are two different switches, one is w/rear wiper and one is wo/rear wiper. If you can't see the switch or it looks different from the one in the picture maybe the car had the switch replaced with the wrong one. . See the switches at the link below. 1986 HONDA ACCORD 2 0L L4 Wiper Washer Switch RockAuto

Modifying the dipstick is a bad idea. How about a step stool?

remove the rear tailgate inner cover unplug the hose and try again to see if the nozzle is plugged up

Replace the radiator.

week or bad battery
bad starter

You have a loose wire or cable, or have blown a fuse or fusible link somewhere. Check battery terminals, connections to the alternator, negative terminal to engine, engine to body, battery to body. A voltmeter is essential for speed and accuracy. A mechanic can sort this out in no time flat.

double check there is one more bolt.

Did you get a good bleed with fluid coming out at all four wheels? If they bled good, and the pedal still goes to the floor, you need to check the brake master cylinder-it is probably shot with an internal leak. An internal leak will not let fluid pressure build up, so no brakes. Did you keep the brake fluid reservoir from going dry while bleeding? If it went real low, air might have got back into the lines. It is not uncommon when bleeding brakes on an older vehicle for the master cylinder to suddenly develop an internal leak and require replacement . Here's why: pushing the pedal all the way to the floor causes the master's piston to push in farther than ever before. The rubber cups then travel over a section of the cylinder not usually touched by the cups-old fluid can develop a crud there and when the piston pushes over it, the cups can get ruined. To avoid this when bleeding brakes, put a short piece of 2X4 wood block under the pedal. Then the pedal will not extend the master's piston beyond it's normal travel. Of course on a new master cylinder, you do not have to do this. A new master cylinder does require bench bleeding before installing, however, to ensure no air pockets develop from there.

it will take quite a bit of pulling and wiggling to get the clutch pressure plate to disengage from the drive shaft, doing this when the engine and trans is out of car is more difficult than when the engine is insitue as you have nothing to pull against ,have you got the engine off the ground and the gearbox hanging out with nothing below it ,you need the engine strapped down on a bench with the gearbox hanging over edge then this should give you enough room to pull/wiggle the thing apart,dont resort to prying between tthe housing's etc good luck

Once a transmission slips-- it is done Time for a rebuild THERE IS NO OTHER SOLUTION It slips,it has done that for awhile,that is an internally worn out trans 1986-- I would get rid of it You never install a used trans & $2,500 for a reman or rebuild, makes no sense. The whine is a worn out pump or stuck pump valves

Rotate the key to lock position and then try to pull it out or better to call a locksmith to do the job for you.

what engine, I4 or V6? what country, like 10 engines world wide.? and North America received the A20A1 and A20A3. got and A20? A1 is carb engine A3 is EFI. so this must be yours, if in USA< are you? The A20A3 IAT ( is the diagnostic light failing for IAT? CODE 10? (map based engine, it is) i googled first. (if failed) its in the FSM http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/ or at alldata.com v6, its dead center of intake plenum. just behind EGR valve. I4 its at.... see page 12-2 in FSM, its on end if engine standing in front of engine, ,point to right if engine end/ then back a tad and bingo. is in the link above. page 12-2 and 12-36 in the FSM. page 36 is how to test it in hot water. page 2 acutal for A20A3 now you have the book. http://www.fixkick.com/look/odds-ends/honda/accord/A20-A3-IAT.JPG

were is it leaking from