20 Most Recent 1999 Subaru Legacy - Page 9 Questions & Answers

replace eletric part of ignition...as u turn the key on it puts its shelf threw a test cycle as it is supos to do but it is sticking in this mode so to speak.....if that dont fix then its the computer and of course i am assuming u have checked grounds.....

u need to get dearly part

Please see http://www.fixya.com/cars/t805417-1999_subaru_legacy_sedan_speedometer

you blew your turbo bearings plane and simple. what had happend was your were probably racing around in it on a Stock pressuer relief valve (blow-off valve in street terms) and your pressuer backed up into the turbo, therefore sending the trubo's bearings for a spin the wrong way, probably nocked a couple in to the fan of the turbo and messed some stuff up. Auto salvage yard. you have the 2.0 H4 which is a very common subaru engine, and just pull apart a legacy touring or outback edition and grab all the turbo essentials. also to prevent this from happening, buy a cheap aftermarket blow off vavle, you'll hear a small wistle when you shift gears (if its a standard/manual transmission) but if not then you won't hear a thing. but its normal for the wistle to happen, that is letting you know your blow off valve is allowing any backed up pressure to escape. And one last thing, AUTO START is a big help with turbo engines, you can park it, take the key out, get out of the car and the car will remain running for 10-15 minutes to allow any back pressure from the turbo to work it self out of the engine. Trust me i have a nissan 240sx with a hevily modified engine, and until someone pointed this out, i blew and bought 4 turbo's

Hi, first of all, take your car to any auto zone place or mechanic and they can check your computer for trouble codes to see why it isn't accelerating. It sounds to me like something is wrong with your Throttle Position Sensor, it tells the computer how far your pushing down the throttle to allow the proper ammount of fuel to be injected into the engine, it may have a bad spot in the sensor so when you push the throttle down that far, it's malfunctioning and the computer doesn't know to inject more fuel into the engine to accelerate faster. When this sensor fails, it won't accelerate fast enough and then it should normally store a trouble code in the car CPU....

Concerning the fuel gauge not working, it's either you have a float or sender problem which is quite easy to detect and fix. The fuel pump sender are under the back seat of the car. So you can check it out yourself to find the cause of the problem...

need more info on what is going on

the big box on the back of the engine has not got a filter in it.hope this helps.

more then likely you will need to replace the power steering pump, unless it is a line leak, if it is the lower pressure then its just a hose and a clamp. The high pressure it the one that is a little more expensive as it has to be clamped. I would suggest wiping everything dry and filling it up and seeing where it is leaking from. Hope this helps tim

do you hear the starter turning over the engine? if not check the electrical connections at the starter some of them also feed other electrical systems

it really is redundant what anyone here would suggest. The probem is not something that is going to go away on its own and unless you have the tools to diagnose this, the shop that does it is who's going to make the recomendation on what they think is wrong. There not going to guarantee anything based on what we say.

Well, the engine management system has something wrong. Pull the codes and explore the code(s) given.
Car running fine with the check engine indication is not unusual. Something is wrong, get after it.

If you indeed removed all the air from the break system and it has a soft pedal. check you master cylinder.

The pump is driven by the timing belt, so the oil pump shaft sticks out of the engine to access the belt. The leak would most likely be the oil pump shaft seal.

Sounds like you’re skeptical.

This diagram is for a 90-98 Subaru but maybe it will help...

an average repair on a factory sun roof runs aropund $400-$500

the only way to know is to have a shop check the code that is causing the check engin light to come on

Look at your VSS, or vehicle speed sensor. This will cause all the above symptoms, as the computer controls the transmission, and the sensor would fault the computer, as well as providing intermittent data to the computer concerning your speed and distance.