20 Most Recent 1997 Subaru Legacy - Page 4 Questions & Answers

might be a frozen caliper piston or a lot of air in lines

of course is different on automatic transmission to manual transmission. for engine running is the same,but probably you do have problems on having lights come on.

The problem is the rubber vibration isolation engine mounts are hard from the engine heat. Replace all the engine mounts and the transmission mount.

Sorry if this might break your heart. I have '98 Outback which is the same 1st generation DOHC 2.5 engine. These are common head gasket problem (I'd say 100% of every engine sooner or later) once you have had your car overheated.

You will not get this comfirmed by just have your mech check the compression on the cylinder because we call it phantom leak (internal leak which can be confirmed with hydrocarbon in coolant). And then you will end up replace every other thing before you could reach the source of problem.

Other signs of this issue are as following: random overheating after freeway or uphills drive, bubbles in coolant overflow tank, oil residue in coolant overflow tank, bubble nioses from the a/c vent.

You're looking at $1000-1500 repair by independent mech as they have to pull engine out to fix the problem. I had mine fixed two weeks ago and now my baby is running like a champ.

google for "Subaru head gasket problem"

ok fuse boxes are under the hood and under the dash around the hood release lever. should be the 5A fuse

check Fuel pressure regulator by disconnecting the vacuum hose. Didn't say what year you have, yet the timing belt can also cause this as I had similar problems on an 87 and the belts were loose and floppy causing erratic firing/idling. A little easy trick to check timing belts without taking any parts off to get at timing belts, is (and no one knows about this one, hee) with a timing light!

Use remote to turn off alarm with all doors closed. the other is to have all doors closed and locked, then unlock from drivers door and turn key twice simutanously. Your third is with the ignition switch depending on what type of alarm it has. I.e., factory or aftermarket.

if its been a week, there should no tbe any air. if its heavy, the rack could be bad, or weak pump????? any noises? air will usually cause a whiney noise, and there will be air whipped, foamy fluid in the pump. A pump pressure regulator could be stuck open, not allowing full pressure? I would have a shop diagnose it, tell them the history and see if they can find a cause.

Try spark plugs.

CLogged catalytic converter if it starts after sitting a while, only to die and not start back shortly after.

You may wan to check to make sure there is no oil in the water or water in the oil. Pull your dip stick out and see if the oil looks foamy white. Oil in water should be easy to spot. If you see these things it could be a cracked head or bad head gasket. How many miles are on the car it could be a timing issue ... your tiimg chain could be broke or wore.

Sometimes bad temperature readings can be corrected by cleanning ground connections at the battery, chassis ground, engine ground and instrument cluster ground.

may stiil hav air in them--a repair manual for ur model at a partstore or local library is helpful--------ur brake booster cud be bad-the master cylinder can leak fluid into it-and u dont see it

Possibly transmission mount.