20 Most Recent 2003 Volvo S60 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

This vehicle should have a coolant expansion tank...You will notice hoses running from the bottom of it and top LEADING TO THE RADIATOR..Don't confuse it with windshield washer tank...BE SURE AND LOOK FOR IT AND CHECK IT WITH ENGINE COLD...

Your brake caliper cylinders are fully extended and can't retract. You are going to have to disassemble your brakes and replace your disks because the only way the calipers can get stuck in an extended position is if the disks are worn enough to allow that to happen.. Time for a brake job my friend.

Have you checked the compression for a blown head gasket?

My car seems to have same problem. It's in the shop right now, as a matter of fact. First, they recommended the fuel pump be changed. Since that cost is so high, I asked that they replace the antenna ring in the ignition as a possible and cheaper hope of fixing it. Another mechanic from Volvo dealership in nearby county claimed this fixes the problem 98% of the time whenever he has these years in with these same problems. I've asked them to do so and am waiting to hear the results. I'll let you know then.

The FIRST thing I would do is to have a Volvo mechanic use VIDA/DiCE to read the actual code the car is giving you. What I would check first is the simple stuff. Is your gas cap on tight. Is the alarm working (the siren module battery can leak and ruin the circuit and this CAN give an error) and also check that the electronic throttle module connector is properly installed. The ETM connector is right in front of the intercooler, so if the intercooler was replaced, it's possible that the connector was dislodged and just needs to be plugged back in. You can also disconnect the battery negative cable for an hour (make sure the car has been OFF for at least 15 minutes first) and then when you're done, turn the ignition to position II and connect the cable again. Start the car and see if the code comes back.

Have some one work all the light's while you check them, running lights, stops lights, turn signal lights, there's a burn out light bulb some where that needs to be replace.

remove the lower dash panel on the left side and you will see the Central electrical Module mounted facing downward. That is also the fuse panel

asking by P/N now that is an all time first on ANY forum. wow. is this how to remove a center console or sub part of that.? what are you doing, what is the service check. or where are you attempting to go , so we can be on same page. see?

may be loose connection or bad fuse/relay

The buzzing is probably coming from an electric motor that is stuck or a relay that is stuck closed. You are probably going to need an automotive electrician to run down the problem. If it is an electric motor, the motor will get hot to the touch. Does your heater motor work? Does all the electrical system operate properly? Check all your electrical system. To isolate the problem pull one fuse at a time then put it back if the buzzing doesn't stop when the buzzing stops, you have isolated the circuit. Then you can take it to a mechanic and have it fixed.

it could also be the air flow meter which is between the air filter and manifold try to disconnect to see if it changes anything

check your solenoid bud