20 Most Recent 1995 Volvo 960 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

If it was the coolant temperature sensor, the system Functions even if a sensor is faulty. To prevent the entire unit from being disabled if a sensor becomes faulty, the system is programmed to continue operating in a more or less normal manner in this event. However, it will react more slowly and will control the temperature less precisely. The A/C button will FLASH to indicate the presence of a fault...

If the blower wont shut off you probally need a new blower switch. If its the temp switch it might just be a vaccum line off. You can get a used blower switch from s junk yard cheap compaired to a new one.

front of radiator or under air filter

Speedometer cable is broken, get it changed and it will start working again. Not a costly part and doesn't take long to change.

Hi E,
I think what you're experiencing is a clutch shudder. This occurs with manual transmissions and not auto. If the car jumps and shakes during take of, sometimes with a clattering noise, (if you have a manual box) the gear box will have to be removed to access the clutch assembly which will need replacement. The job is one of the more expensive on a vehicle.
Regards Johngee10

You need to do a tune up,such as sparkplugs,pcv valve and ignition wires.You will also have to do emissions like clean throttle body check mass air flow sensore.But most important is to find out what code is being stored in computer of your car.They make very many differant types of code readers you can purchase online between 50 to150$.Depending how much information you want to retrieve from your cars computer.The problem is there are so many sensores on todays cars you really need to narrow it down or you will be changing all kinds of componets and wasting lots of money.See if a friend has a code reader or purchase one yourself,that would be the first thing I would do.Then you can change all other things as you can afford to.Times are hard right now only spend what you have to.Good Luck.....

Without looking into it too far I would say that one or more of your wheel speed sensors was damaged in the process of changing the tires. That is the most common reason for the abs light to come on. In order to properly diagnose this issue the car will need to be connected to an OBD reader so that you can get the error code from the car.

sounds like a bad starter

i have the same in my s 90 chack gear sensor

The people who work at the emission inspection places are not technicians.The read codes and it is a matter of pass or fail.I would recommend paying for a real diagnostic with someone who is familiar with Volvos.It will same you money in the long run.Dont just replace parts.

The #1 piston must be at the top (Top Dead Center or TDC). Having said that it is still possible to get it wrong because the crankshaft turns twice to every 1 turn of the camshaft. Watch your valves as you turn the engine. The correct TDC occurs when the intake valve closes as you near the top and as you go past the exhaust valve starts to open. If the reverse is happening then your car will not start.
If you have an interference engine the timing must be done separately, the block with #1 at the top and the head with the valves opening in the right sequence before you place the head on the block. Otherwise you run a substansial risk of bending a valve or 2. If you already have the head on the car and discover the timing is wrong, remove the head before you try to correct it. A call to the dealer will confirm or deny the fact of whether it is interference or not. You should also send the head to a local rebuilder if it is to be checked for bent valves, before you put it back together. If you don't it will run like **** if it starts.
Hope this helps.

You can go to a Volvo dealer and they can check the code in the system with your radio serial number, and this should be free of charge.

there is a lever to push down and it pulls out, check the passenger side to see where it is because its more open and easier to view. the lever should be grey

the engine oil is coming from the side of the upper and lower cylinder block. it does not use a casket but a special glue. The pressure in the engine is high, so do have a check with the PCV, located below the inlet manifold. The rubber hose should be replaced too. It may be blocked. Wet spark plugs will cause the misfiring.

One or more of the remaining connections must have a hot wire shorted to the body somewhere. You are going to have to isolate each individual unit and test the hot wire with a multimeter. If the fuse is out of the fuse block touching one probe of the meter (set to ohms) to the wire and the other probe to the body should not give a reading. The wire which does give a reading is the one with the short and must be traced to find the bad spot needing repair or replacement.

right hand side front passenger below the dashboard at the A pillar

The one underneath connected together the air flow rubber hose.

find a local body shop in the phone book. call them first to see if they work on nordic stuff. if so take it in and pay them to re-attach it. not rocket science and if you can afford to own a volvo you can pay to get it fixed.

HI this sounds like the vacuum booster has a leak in the diaphragm. That is why you hear that sound when you push on the brake pedal. With out the vacuum to help this leaves you with a very stiff brake pedal. You will need to replace the Booster which is located behind the brake master cylinder and on the firewall. Good luck

Most probably just needs to have the AC serviced and refilled with coolant. Since the car is a '95. I had to bring in my to get the coolant refilled just a few weeks back and it is a 2004. We used to just call it a freon refill, but they don't use normal freon anymore, they use a coolant/refrigerant that is safer for the environment, but this doesn't matter for you. Just bring it in to your mechanic or to your dealer and have the AC serviced.

They should probably put in a dye as well to see if there is a coolant leak, If so, it is usually a very slow leak and repairing the whole AC unit wouldn't be worth it. Either way, it needs a fill.

Good luck!