1993 Volvo 940 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It's easier to get a manual from an auto parts store specifically for your car.

Issue with Gaz Line transportation.. Check input Gas Line... Take Off Gaz line from Carb Start engine see if gas came out if yes..Check your intake carb for Durt inside the line ...Also chek all your Vaccum Line and sensor Volvo are sensitive for Vaccum lost and The Carb need it ..Also if it Fuel injection... Check for Ignition Control Box for Malfunctioning Relay ...good luck

If you are intending on replacing the check valve washer, it's recommended that you replace the check valve at the same time. If you try to match this it's a best guess and if you miss, you are guaranteed a leak and a potential fire hazard as well, not to mention possibly burning out the main pump. If the main pump fails, the engine will not run. Here's where I get my Volvo 7xx 9xx stuff at the best price with the best service (and your part complete with washer is here, $15.95): Volvo Fuel Pump Check Valve Bosch 1587010539

check tail light fuse

This is usually related to a failed vacuum check valve under the hood. It is connected to a large hose that runs directly to the throttle body. If it's stuck shut, the default is to direct the air to the floor plenums only, since you're not getting a vacuum feed into the control unit. Check by swapping in a known good unit or for a very quick check, remove the valve and install the hose directly onto the other line running into the car. If your modes work, that's the issue. If they still don't work, then the hose leading into the control unit is broken. If the hose is ok, then you're going to need to check the control unit itself (go to any pick-a-part, these can be had for a few dollars and I've rarely seen a bad one) and test by swapping it out. If that's ok, then it's time to check the vacuum motors and their connections and that can be a pig since you'll need to remove some interior components to get at them.

Segen sick 5 for oh won door ate heaven 2; sell it to me?

could be a bad voltage regulator or something that is missed is. do you have the lights in your visors around the mirrors .if so make sure they are not on

on the engine drivers side below the air intake/below the brake fluid reservoir/ follow the large red batery cable

Turned out that my old mechanic was right...it was one of the two relays up front.

Hi,
Unscrew the idle pulley first.
Look for a small pulley where the a/c belt passes through. That is the idle pulley, the screw on the bracket of that idle is on the top side where you could adjust to loosen the tension of the belt. Before loosening it, loosen the bolt on the front of idle pulley.
Hope FixYa helps you out!

Ok. if you have made sure you have ignition spark at the spark plugs by turning over the engine with a spark plug wire off and held next to the block and you have also made sure your Fuel injection is pulsing and putting fuel into the engine, start from scratch.Pull out all your spark plugs,clean them off check the gap and let the cylinders dry out.The put them back,turn the key to on and make sure again that y our fuel injection is priming the system.Then spin the engine over.if you are still not getting the car to start,then you may need to check and make sure your camshaft is not broken by spinning the engine over and making sure you have spark at each plug.Try that and repost.Good luck.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!
As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you remove the positive battery connector and let it sit for atleast 5mins. or more before reconnecting it. This will reset the system and can get your vehicle back to it's normal operation.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Preparation

Caution! Remove the ignition key.

Remove
the screw holding the engine stabilizer brace to the bracket on the engine
the screws holding the engine stabilizer brace to the suspension turrets
the engine stabilizer brace.

Applies only to B6xx4T engines:
Remove the plastic pipes between the turbocharger (TC) and charge air cooler (CAC) and between the air cleaner (ACL) and turbocharger (TC). Put them to one side. Remove the clamp from the intake manifold for the turbocharger (TC) for cylinders 1, 2 and 3. Turn the upper section of the pipe towards the firewall.

Relieve the load from the belt tensioner.
Remove the auxiliaries belt. See: Drive Belt\Service and Repair
Remove the upper timing belt cover.
Remove the front timing belt cover.
Lift up the servo reservoir and place it on top of the engine.Note! Ensure that the oil does not leak from the ventilation hole in the filler cap.

Seal the hose between the expansion tank and the radiator.
Disconnect the hose at the tank.
Lift up the expansion tank and place it on top of engine.

Raise the car. Remove
the right front wheel
the plastic nuts on the cover in the fender liner. Install the upper timing belt cover.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys correspond.
Turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 turn clockwise. Then turn back counter-clockwise until the markings correspond.
Remove the upper timing belt cover.

Remove the 4 vibration damper screws. Counterhold the crankshaft central nut.

Remove
the vibration damper
the auxiliaries belt
the belt cover behind the crankshaft pulley for the auxiliaries belt. Spray universal oil or similar around the rubber sleeve on the underside of the oil pump.

Remove the rubber sleeve.

Removing the timing belt

Slacken off the belt tensioner
Slacken off the center screw for the belt tensioner slightly.
Hold the center screw still.
Turn the tensioner eccentric counter-clockwise using a 6 mm Allen key.
Turn to 10 o'clock.
Unhook and remove the timing belt.Caution! Do not turn the camshafts or the crankshaft when the timing belt has been removed.


Checking the tensioner pulley and idler pulley Check bearing wear:
Spin the idler pulley and listen for noise. If replacing with a new idler pulley, tighten to 24 Nm .
Spin the tension pulley and listen for noise. When replacing, screw the tension pulley into place using the center screw.
Screw in the center screw by hand.
Ensure that the tensioner fork is centered over the cylinder block rib / bracket.
Ensure that the Allen hole on the eccentric is at "10 o'clock".

Installing the timing belt

Install the belt in the following order:
crankshaft
the idler pulley
intake cam
exhaust cam
water pump
tension pulley.Note! The variable valve timing unit on B6304S engines does not have a return spring. The unit is easily dislodged when reinstalling the timing belt.


Tensioning the timing belt

This adjustment is carried out on a cold engine. A suitable temperature is approximately 20°C / 68°F .
At higher temperatures (with the engine at operating temperature or a high outside temperature for example) the indicator is further to the right.
The illustration shows the position of the indicator when aligning the timing belt tensioner at different temperatures.
Carefully turn the crankshaft clockwise until the timing belt is tensioned. The belt must be in tension between the intake camshaft pulley, the idler pulley and the crankshaft.
Hold the belt tensioner center screw secure. Turn the belt tensioner eccentric clockwise until the tensioner indicator passes the marked position. Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the center of the window.
Hold the eccentric secure. Tighten the center screw to 25 Nm .
Check that the indicator is in the correct position.

Check

Press the belt to check that the indicator on the tensioner moves easily.
Install the upper timing belt cover. Turn the crankshaft 2 turns. Check that the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond.
Check that the indicator on the belt tensioner is within the marked area.

Finishing

Install the auxiliaries belt around the pulley on the crankshaft.
Install
the rubber sleeve on the underside of the oil pump
the vibration damper.
Use new screws.
Tighten to 35 Nm .
Angle-tighten 50°.
Use the crankshaft center nut as a counterhold
the plastic nuts for the cover in the right-hand fender liner
the right front wheel.

Lower the car.
the front timing belt cover. Tension the auxiliaries belt.
the expansion tank
the hose between the expansion tank and the radiator. Remove the lock grip pliers
the servo reservoir
the upper timing belt cover.

Applies only to B6xx4T engines:
Twist the intake pipe for the turbocharger for cylinders 1, 2 and 3 into position.
Tighten the clamp.
Install the plastic hoses between the turbocharger (TC) and the charge air cooler and between the air cleaner (ACL) and the turbocharger (TC). Tighten the hose clamps.

the engine stabilizer brace. Tighten to 50 Nm
the screw holding the engine stabilizer brace to the bracket on the engine. Tighten to 80 Nm .

Final check
Check and top up if required
coolant level
the servo fluid level. Test drive the engine.

Don't forget to rate the solution

thanks
good luck

I do not believe there is a reset switch. Your problem is likely a fuel pump relay. This is a white relay behind the ashtray in the center console. Remove it and replace it.

OR...If you are handy open the case and pull it out of the case noting the way it came out.
You should resolder the circuit board that holds two relays using silver solder.
You should also clean out the relay contacts. This can
be done by folding as sliver of fine abrasive paper so that both sides can
work the contacts. Hold the abrasive sliver with tweezers and work it in
between the contacts. If the plating on the contacts is badly burnt, pitted or corroded, you should just replace the replay , as it will fail again.
New relay is around $50.
Please vote if this helped! Thanks, Mike

I take it that the car still runs more-or-less OK?
The first thing to do is to reset the light and see if it comes back. The quickest way to reset the light is to disconnect the battery for a minute or two. If you do it that way, you will probably have to punch in the anti theft code and reset the radio station presets in your radio if you still have the original radio.
The second thing to do, if you are so inclined, is to buy a service manual that tells you how to read the codes to see what the car thinks its problem is. On a '93, there should be a LED that flashes the codes. Bentley is the best manual but expensive. A Chiltons manual or similar should be available much cheaper and will have the information that you need. Check the library. You might get lucky.
The most common check engine light on any car is leaking (loose) gas cap. I don't think that a '93 Volvo would detect that, however, so the next most common cause of a light is the oxygen sensor. If this is the original oxygen sensor in this car, it is shot and needs to be replaced. Good luck getting that rusty old thing out of there. If you want to replace it, soak it with penetrating oil every day for several days before trying to loosen it.
This car has a heated oxygen sensor, so a failed heater in the sensor or a problem with the sensor heater circuit from the fuse box to the sensor can cause a check engine light. I had an intermittent connection in the sensor heater circuit on my '91 that drove me crazy for years until I finally ran a new wire all the way from the fuse box to my oxygen sensor plug. No more check engine light.
What you really want to know is "Can I drive this thing to work?" The short answer is - it will probably be fine. If the light stays on, it is most likely that the system is running "open loop" meaning that it is not reading its oxygen sensor and trimming the fuel mixture properly. This will knock about 10 mpg off your highway mileage, which really stinks at $4 a gallon, but the car will get you back and forth to work.
Running over-rich in open loop mode is not good for the engine, but there is almost zero chance that you will do any serious damage to the car if you drive it all summer with the check engine light on.
For excellent free advice from Volvo enthusiasts and a wealth of RWD (rear-wheel drive) Volvo information, visit the website called the Brickboard. For inexpensive parts on line, go to Autohaus Arizona, FCP Groton, or IPD (there are many other excellent on-line vendors as well)
Good luck. I was a starving student once too. A student is now driving my old Volvo wagon. It has 300k+ miles on it and looks and runs great.

open the gas tank lid, remove the cover,

make sure of pulleys alignment together and also the tensioner of belt.

remove the air intake snorkel and look into the intake,you will see a throttle plate.this is the area that needs to be cleaned with intake cleaner.a toothbrush works good to clean this area until it shines don`t forget to clean the back side of the valve as well.you will have to hold the accelerator down until it starts and as soon as it starts release it.you may have another problem with the no start as well.it could be a fuel problem or ignition problem of some sort.

stop by any good parts store and have an OBII scan (fault scan) most will do it for free. Have scan done, identify fault and part that needs replacement and have parts store reset the lights for you.

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