1992 Volvo 240 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I would look at the fuse/relay panel it self. A bad connection or corrosion will cause parts to heat up. My guess is the coil part of the relay is what's heating up and releasing the contact.

You need to remove the steering wheel and the plastic steering shaft cover. You can then unscrew the dimmer switch and unplug it.

Check Fuel Pressure, and check the Ignition Coil.

The problem has to be either in the fuel delivery system or ignition system respectively. U need to trouble shoot those two areas to locate source of problem. For example, if your fuel pump is not running no way your engine gets gas and runs. If not running, why? Is the motor bogus or is it not getting power? Coil(s)?, fuses, filters, switches in line, etc. Basically you have to be a good thorough detective and leave no stones un turned.

Need a fan to cool it down.

Assuming you have an auto transmission, your only choice is to ease off the gas when you want it to change gears. Then apply slight pressure on the gas to continue to accelerate.

I believe it is attached to a support bracket for the dash behind the glove compartment.

when driving overdrive kicks in sometimes it will go off

It may say C0D3 or something similar. Assuming that the radio is original to the car, collect your VIN and fill out the Volvo's customer service form. You should have an answer in a business day or two. Radio Code Volvo Cars

You may have a dirty Idle Control Valve.

change the fuel pump relay.that is a very common fail.

Might want to pull the computer codes to see which sensor or switch is malfunctioning. The computer is in limp in mode to keep it running and get you home. The codes should point you in the right direction.

I'm assuming from the age of this post that this has been solved? If not, check the fuse for the brakes. The later 240s used the brake circuit as a safety interlock to make sure your foot was on the brake before pulling out of park. There's also an override that you can engage by moving a lever that is hidden down in the shifter. You can feel it at the bottom of the shifter slot near "1" postion.

My information shows, the 4th. fuse is 8A for Turn signals, Tail lights, Heated mirrors: The 5th. is 16A for Brake lights, Shiftlock, ABS. You should check carefully to see which fuse is blowing and what circuits it controls. You are then able to trace those circuits to locate the short.

aircon refrigerant pressure low/no refrigerant

Remove glove box via 8 screws / pull out top light switch connector / Inside on left side you will find a Over Drive Relay Switch / Replace Relay switch / Re install in reverse order. Also you should hear the overdrive relay switch come on every time it is energized on or off the car. ( bench with 12 volts fed to it)

timimg belts usually don't make noise, they break and the motor stops!! The noise could be coming from a bad water pump, powersteering pump, air compresser, alternater, leaky exhaust, leaky vacume lines. Check them out. Or, I don't know the condition of the engin. Has it been neglected and are the bearing going? More history would be helpful.

rear disc can be activated by bad fluid heating up. If there is moisture in the brake fluid it can make steam and cause the rear brakes to partially engage. did this one myself at the brake shop.

its either the brake light switch on the brake pedal or the servo at the shifter that is g to fail.

Check the brake switch its located above the brake pedal , when pedal is pressed down the switch opens allowing power to go thru the switch to the back brakes . You will see a little plastic stud comes out like a pen trigger in and out as you press and depress the brake pedal . Hope this help .