Top 20 1991 Jeep Wrangler - Page 3 Questions & Answers

You need to do this with a vacuum bleeder like those made by MITYVAC, they cost about $30 and are available at most better auto parts stores and some retailers like Walmart (not sure on that). The tool comes with full instructions and adapters for most clutch bleeder ports.

does it ever come out of that gear while moving and can you get it into higher gears than 3rd

sounds like you may have crossed the plug wires when putting them on the distributor cap.

The clutch should go to the floor =) But if it's not disengaging the clutch disk, there's definitely a problem between the pedal and the clutch disk. I'm guessing you have a hydraulic clutch?

aftermarket modifications or fabrications to the vehicle is the best place to start looking. if it is all stock than it is time for a bumper to bumper inspection. some people are afraid to work on their own vehicles but later surprised that they could repair a problem just by seeing something that looks out of place. first thing first go to autozone and get your codes read for free.

About what year, model and engine size.

try removing the negative terminal on your battery for approximately 10 seconds. it works for the check engine light after service, so it just might work for the maint. light as well.

The '91 & newer models turned the maint, req. light on by a timer in the ECU & the ECU turns it on around 120k miles based on a timer and requires a dealer or shop visit to be reset.But it isnt going to hurt anything by being on.

I have seen this issue in some 4x4 vehicles. The issue may be that although you have moved the shift lever, because there is pressure on the axle components, the vehicle has not released the front wheels. After shifting from 4x4 to 2x4, allow the vehicle to move without torque for a few seconds, allowing the components to move into 2x4.

Check the wiring going to the coil. If you installed an alarm on that vehicle disconnect the main power wire to the alarm to disable the ignition kill circuit. Locate the ignition relay located on the drivers side fender wall or in the power distribution box under the hood and test it. finally, there is a fuse on the interior fuse panel that will give you this condition. I do not have the exact location so check all fuses in the panel and replace any blown fuses.

HelloThe porblem under discussion here is not related with my expertise. Please get helped from any other. OK.

probably have a blockage in the heater core or heater hoses to the core

This all depends if this is a hydraulic clutch or if its cable operated, you can only bleed hydraulic clutches, to bleed it you would bleed at the ******, you will see the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder that operates the clutch fork.

could be aflasher unit or a bad earth

check it over 4 vacuim leaks or faulty vac valves

Leak in the clutch master or clutch slave cylinder. Have them checked out.

You might have a mixed up wiring or the wrong bulbs. Or the bulbs can be installed wrong remove them and turn 180 degrees)

put a bar behind clutch arm on gearbox and pull it in so the slave cylinder goes in ,then open bleed valve,now assistant pumps up the clutch so the slave pushes out then put bar in the arm again and pull in back with the bleed valve open then when its in cles it and repeat operation again and it should be`perfect,if not push pedal down and jam it down with a brick and leave overnight that normally works

#12 "Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected with in the last 50 key on cycles"
This denotes the battery has been disconnected or replaced recently and should just be reset. It is more informational than anything.

#33 "An open or shorted condition detected in the A/C clutch relay circuit"
If you have no A/C the instructions are to ignore this message.

#55 means end of codes. No more codes stored. Problem codes, if any, will have been displayed before that.

You have an internal transmission damage since you mentioned you only have 4th gear left.