Top 20 1991 Jeep Wrangler - Page 10 Questions & Answers

YES A CAP FROM THE DEALER WILL MOST LIKELY SOLVE THIS ISSUE...SOME OF THE AFTERMARKET CAPS ARE NOT MADE TO THE PROPER SPECS TO MAINTAIN PROPER PRESSURE/VACUUM ON THE SYSTEM WHEN THE EVAP TEST BY THE COMPUTER OCCURS

the fuel sending unit is probably stuck and need to replacing. common problems to many older vehicle it tend to read sometime correctly and sometime not at all. the sending unit will be in your gas tank.

try replacing the crankshaft position sensor

It sounds as the voltage regulator which is built into the back of the alternator has stuck. Occaisionally this even happens on new ones. Would suggest taking the alternator back as it shoud be under warranty.

If the light was flashing when it came on, then it means your engine is misfiring.

A solid light can mean anything from a loose/faulty gas cap to a transmission issue.

This light comes on when the computer detects a fault of some sort in its diagnostic tests. If it keeps detecting this issue, the light will remain on. If the light turns off, then it has detected that the issue may no longer be present.

In order to find out what the exact reason was for your light, You need to have your car computer scanned to retrieve the code that the computer would have stored when the light triggered. Most garages will do this free of charge. The code will tell you what may have caused the light to initially turn on.

Hey Mudkicker,

Who ever thought of putting an electric fuel pump inside a tank of gas........

Check your other gauges for accuracy. They do that when a ground is loose.

Check the wiring from the fuel tank along the longitudinal frame for frays and shorts. Plugs are secured.

Under the hood, passenger side, check the fuel pump relay. Switch it with one of the others to test it.

Bring the vehicle to an auto parts store. Ask them to break out he code reader. Check for diag codes

Comment me back
Mike.

make sure you get a cap from the dealer. I had similar issue.... bought cap from autozone...still threw the code....thought must be something else.

ended up replacing all the vacuum lines ... still threw a code

desperate, bought new cap from dealer.... problem solved!

Most likely it is the voltage regulator that's going bad which allows overcharging. this is inside the alternator, so it most likely needs replacement. you could pull it out and take it in to most auto parts stores and they would check it to make sure.

Besides the fuses there is also a fuel pul relay. should be located under the hood in one of the relay and fuse boxes.It should be listed on the chart on the inside of the relay/fuse box cover.

im asuming it was running fine when it was garaged? if so, then the first thing you need to do is to drain the fuel tank and flush the fuel lines. when gas gets old, it simply wont ignite. and over that time, it thickens into almost a syrup. so you need to drain and clean the fuel tank, fuel lines, and replace the fuel filter. im not sure if that year jeep is carbureted or fuel injected, but if it has a carb., then that will definitely need to be cleaned. or for fuel injection, use a good fuel injector cleaner mixed with your new gas. once it starts, it wlil run a bit rough, but once the old fuel gets burned out of the system, it should gradually improve.

The Starter relay is bad.

Did you replace the coil because it wouldn't start before? If it ran before, there must be a mis-connection somewhere. I assume by your stating that 'it turns but will not crank', to mean that the engine will crank over with the starter but won't start and run. True?

are you sure the dash lights are not turned off, have seen many cars come through the shop this way, the other issue would be the dash light dimmer rheostat, test it with an ohm meter.

sounds like you have a major vacuum leak. Plug the throttle body completly with you hand. If the car does not stall out there is you idle problem. Take carb cleaner spray vacuum like throttle body gasket intake gasket etc. Hope this helps please rate me.

No voltage to the coil or no spark coming outta of coil wire?If no voltag to at least 1 side of the coil(2 wires)..Check fuse 21 20 amp in the power distribution box under hoodright side of engine compartment.

The easiest way is to use an aftermarket unit that has diodies that allow for functionality in your instance.

Hi fernandez,

Without knowing more, I can't really pinpoint the cause. But I can suggest some solutions.

On my '91, the hubs have a manual lock. I'm assuming if it in four-low the hubs were locked. Shifting the transfer case and even unlocking the hubs can be problematic on pavement.

Here's why:
With the hubs locked, the entire drive train is locked.

When you go in a straight line, no problem.

If you turn, the wheels on one side travel a different distance than those on the other side. But with the drive train locked, all the wheels are trying to spin at the same rate.

No problem if you're off-road or on slippery pavement. The wheels can spin a bit.

If you're on dry pavement, there can be a problem. There is a lot of stress on the system, especially the steering knuckles, and U-Joints. You need to relieve this pressure.

Drive it to a place (the side of the road works) with sand or gravel, drive it in a straight line a few yards back and forth. Put it in neutral while you are still rolling and shift the transfer case. Then unlock the hubs.

Hope this helps
Mike

U have what is called a hydraulic clutch, one of the hydraulic cylinders hs failed, there is a master and a slave cylinder. The most likely and most common cylinder to fail is the slave cylinder, this requires the transmission to be pulled out to replace it. the art is around $125.00, while the trans is out u might as well replace the clutch, the labor is about the same. Here is a picture of the part, let me know if u can see it.

Check the brake switch on the brake pedal for your brake light prob. There are 2 wires on the switch, one is 12 volts and the other gets 12 volts when you step on the brake pedal. You can check tis with a test light.

The handle is held in place by two vertical wedges on both sides of the handle. To remove just force the wedges up with a hammer and screwdriver (be careful of the glass). Putting them back in is very difficult. I would suggest making the bends or adjustments with it installed so you'll know exactly how much you need. I hope this helps.