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1984 Chrysler New Yorker Questions & Answers
1984 Chrysler new Yorker 2.6l wont start. Replaced
Here's a quote from amy Chilton's manual for 1980-1987."Several types of fuel filters are used. One is located in the fuel tank of all the vehicles and is part of the fuel guage assembly. Second is a sealed paper element, in-line unit; mechanical system- located on the engine (above the fuel pump) or electrical system- located in front of the fuel tank. Third is a paper element, in-line fuel filter/vapor separator, housed in a fuel resevoir. Normally, the in-tank filter does not require changing. If it does, the fuel tank must be removed. "This thing you describe sounds like the typical Chrysler in-line filter of its day. It is nothing more than the same generic in-line plastic see-thru filter you buy for your lawn mower except in the 70's and 80's it was covered in metal and had a Chrysler part number. A lot of guys added an extra filter in those days, it wasn't the best system. I would remove the outlet line and turn the fuel pump on, see if you get fuel. Replace if needed.
Checking the vacuum lines on a 1984 chrysler new yorker
From you description of the fuel pump I take it that it is bolted to the block at the cam shaft probably with 2 bolts. If this is the case. then there will be 2 springs involved . One you can see by looking in past the lever and this spring keeps the lever in contact with the lobe on the shaft and so keeps the diaphragm working. The 2nd spring is inside the pump under the diaphragm and is what produces the pressure that keeps the fuel line to the carby full of fuel. If you have a sealed unit you will not see this spring as you have to split the carby body to get to it.. The big adaptor block is what you use to regulate the volume of fuel as it decides how close the pump is to the cam lobe and how much fuel is generated at each stroke . So if the block was there originally and you replaced with the same pump then leave the block there. These pumps are self regulating as to pressure and volume and the variables are the block thickness and the internal spring tension. Having said that--. if there is no spring on the lever then yes there will be a pumping problem Distributors and coils are only involved it making high voltage and distributing the voltage to the correct plug in turn. cars I work on do not have fuel relays and cut off switches but draw fuel directly from the tank and push it to the carby. The coil will be most likely the best place to start looking for a starting problem because if there is no spark from the coil then it will not start. If you have points in the distributor then check the point gap. Remove the coil to the distributor cap and place it a small distance from the block . Turn on the ignition and using a small screw driver open the points (closed ) and you will get a spark from the coil lead. If you do not then there will be a problem at the points (Shorting out ) or condenser. If you have transistorised ignition then you will have to have the exciter block in the distributor check for operation. Coils can be checked with a multimeter and reading the internal resistance will indicate if it is good or burnt out.
Where is the heater core
It's inside the heater box inside the car. If you need to change it the procedure is different for cars with A/C. Hope this helps.
Will not start
is it a carby model?check fuel filter,fuel pump drainfuel bowl,do you have spark?check wires
My problem with my 1984 Chrysler New Yorker is
change plugs, wires, and clean the carb. Just a basic tune up. If you don't know how to do the carb, just, at least, spray som e carb cleaner through it. It doesn;t get to all the places it should, but it will help somewhat. Adjust the air screws to get highest idle, without any misfiring. Check timing.
1984 New Yorker 2.2 Turbo oil pressure low on ilde
I think you have a suspect oil pressure sender unit. Replace it as they are cheap and need to be reliable and it will be cheaper than getting the oil pressure tested. If the light still stays on with the new sender you may have internal wear or a partial blockage. If the light stays on you need to have it urgently checked by a mechanic or you could risk serious engine damage.
Is my asd or fuel pump relay bad?
ASD automatic shut down relay for non FCA owners of cars
the ASD is ECU slave relay the fuel pump can not shut down the pump in fact the opposite is try.
ASD drops mostly if the ECU sees spark loss and this act disables the injectors and the pump to end Crash and burn as seen on TV>
learn how ASD works first or go broke fast.
No engine told or size. and matters for eCU used.
pin 51 ECU shots of ASD , it and ONLY IT
but I told you spark must be good. on all cars made EFI same answer, now you know way too(crash safety)
the red line I made all that goes dead, just one schmatic and wow facts easy out of the SM.
I do not claim to know all ecu ASD relay shut downs, (air bags, none)
but spark tops the list off all EFI cars made, all.
Car problem
Disconnect your battery to clear the fault codes, Start and run your vehicle again to see what pops up. For one, you are reading the MIL code and you should get a simple fault code reader for under $20. Use the emission control section of the Haynes manual to pinpoint the fault code. MIL codes are too generic to be of much worth. (Typically, what I do: 1) clean out the throttle body... you have to remove it and the two sensors on it... replace the idle control sensor if it's carbonated (can clean it up well enough), 2) the torque converter solenoids on these things are ticklish... replace it... easy job and have posted elsewhere on how to do it properly, new one costs $70 at NAPA,) Service the AT: gasket and filter. new fluid AF+4 only (Castrol for Chrysler is best). Unplug the ECU and TCM sensors after disconnecting the battery and spray electronics contact cleaner inside both ends: terminal and connector sides and let them air dry before replacing them and reconnecting the battery. Replace the EATX relay. Your fault is now gone and you gas mileage should go up a bit too! A new set of Iridium plugs will go far is adding a little power and improve gas mileage too. It's a project to get to the rear spark plugs; Nbr 1 especially. Removing the wiper arms, grill under the windscreen, wiper mechanism and the tray is sits above, and then you can get to the backside plugs. Use the 100K mile iridiums and nver have to worry about plugs again!
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