Top 10 1999 Mercury Villager Questions & Answers

his problem is caused by the failure of the circuit board that operates the tach needle, you will have to remove the instrument panel then the tach from the panel and send it out for repair to an authorized Nissan electronics repair center, contact your local dealer for the name and number.

if you locate the blower motor the rester is the wire that atachec to blower motor fallow wire till you find a circuit bord this is ur resistor

Hi..The Blower Motor Resistor is located under the glove compartment, pass side. You do not need to remove the glove box, or anything. Look under the dash on the pass side and you will see the resistor with the wires leading to it. (looks about the width of a Credit card) Simply undo the ( 2 ) 9 or 10mm screws from the resistor, slide/pull it down from the slot, un-clip the wire harness and replace with the new resistor. Screw it back up. Thats it. Takes about 4 minutes. The dealer wants $125.+ to do the job. The resistor is about $24.00.
Good Luck. If it keeps blowing, the blower motor is probably drawing too many amps. Then you have to switch that out.
Mike

check the files on this site where Villager owners help each other. I'm sure we covered this.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

This may be just a case of inadvertently hitting the window lock out n th driver door window switch by mistake. Check that first. Here's some background on window operation

Principles of Operation
The driver power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the master window/door lock/unlock switch (and its integrated "auto down" module). Power is supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is opened.
The driver power window regulator motor is a reversible motor that is operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window, and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
The passenger power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the passenger power window switch and can also be controlled by the master window/door lock/unlock switch. Power is supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is opened.
The passenger power window regulator motor is a reversible motor, which is operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window, and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
The power rear quarter glass is also directly controlled by the master window/door lock/unlock switch. The power rear quarter glass power latches also utilize reversible motors. The power rear quarter glass power latches are operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to open the window, and then reversing polarity on those same leads to close the window.
Symptom Chart Condition Possible Sources Action

• All windows are inoperative

• BJB Fuse:
  • F20.
• Circuit.
• Power window relay.
• Front door power window switch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test A .

• Single power window is inoperative

• Front door power window switch.
• Front door power window regulator.
• Circuit.
• Driver door power window switch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test B .

• Vent power window is inoperative — quarter window glass power latch

• Circuit.
• Quarter window glass switch.
• Quarter window glass power latch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test C .

• The one touch down feature is inoperative

• Master window regulator and door lock switch.

• INSTALL a new master window/door lock/unlock switch. REFER to Switch—Master Window Door Lock/Unlock .

• The back window will not defrost

• CJB Fuses:
  • F30 (10A).
  • F32 (20A).
  • F34 (20A).
• BJB Fuse:
  • F27 (45A)
• Circuit.
• Heated back window switch.
• SEC/timer module.
• Rear window defrost relay.

• GO to Pinpoint Test D .

• The back window defrost will not shut off automatically

• SEC/timer module.
• Circuit.
• Rear window defrost relay.

• GO to Pinpoint Test E .

The knock sensor is never bad and it costs @ $500 to change. Have to remove top half of engine. I suspect you need to clean the optical cam sensor under the distributor cap or change the oxygen sensor. Here is a site where we help each other with Villager Qust problems.

Look in files for answers.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

please rate highly if this helps.

Check fuse #37, 10 amp yellow in fuse panel on dash.

The camshaft sensor in the distributor sends the tach signal to the instrument cluster. wire is BU = Blue?

go here for villager help

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

go to this iste and click on files and look at file named valve cover gasket repair for procedure I posted.


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/files/

please don't forget to rate

cam sensor is in distributor, not serviceable. 1999 is noted for failing cam sensors. Usually runs good cold, then gets worse after warm till it fails all together.
Buy Rich Porter reman on ebay for $200 to get a good one.

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What you need to do is take off the original line. If you check on the Web, you may find some kits for a complete system, but an individual line is often difficult to ship.

There are different size fittings on the ends of brake lines. In some cases, the Universal lines may work, but the end fittings must match your vehicle. This is why taking the old line with you is important.

Some mechanics get coils of brake lines and bend and fit the ends themselves. It takes a few specialized hand tools to accomplish this. They are not terribly expensive, but for 1 line it is not worth it and it takes some skill to properly install the fittings on the line.

Now you have a 14 Year old car, and I can't recall when they stopped all production. But even a later model may be too old for them to stock a Factory replacement part.

A good brake shop would be your best bet. Call ahead and ask if they can make a line to replace what you have. It should not take but a 1/2 hour or so to swap out what you have, then some time to bleed the brakes.

One thing to consider- ALL lines were new at the same time. If one rusts out, there are few reasons for corrosion to be any worse for the failed line than the rest of the lines on your van. The exception would be collision replacements in which some brake lines might be newer than your van.