First, ask the mechanic what he did to make the sound go away for a week. If the answer isn't very helpful, then jack up each wheel and turn it by hand to try to identify the ticking sound. You may have to remove a wheel to see what is going on. (To turn a front wheel, the transmission would have to be in neutral. Be sure you have the vehicle properly supported, and put blocks in front and back of tires that stay on the ground to ensure the vehicle doesn't roll off the jack stand.)
There are a number of possible causes. A lug bolt that is too worn to hold the nut tight is one - the mechanic may have tightened and it didn't hold. Usually such a problem involves most or all of the lug bolts if it's making noise, and is very dangerous because the wheel could come off while in motion. Most mechanics would tell you if they had to retorque the lug nuts.
There may be a problem with a warped rotor or drum tapping a brake shoe, but you would probably feel that as a pulsation while braking.
Another possibility is something sticking out of the brake caliper that is tagging spokes on the wheel as it rotates. That isn't normal and should be remedied.
The unkindest possibility I can think of is that the mechanic had to pound so ******* a stuck rotor or drum to get it off that he damaged a wheel bearing or CV axle, and is embarrassed to say it. The noise can be temporarily dampened by squirting in extra grease. If this is the case, deal fairly with him on it; it isn't necessarily that he used the wrong method (what else can you do when the part is rusted on, and rust penetrant and torching didn't work?), but perhaps he was hoping it wouldn't add to the expense of the job. Nevertheless, it would have been better to explain to you what happened when you brought the vehicle back.
2002 Honda CR-V
on Feb 26, 2018