20 Most Recent 1993 Cadillac Eldorado - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I am not exactly what you are asking? I have a 1994, and I have completely rebuilt this car and know every inch of it. I can help you with whatever you need to know. But I am just not understanding the question.

may only need fluid drained and filters changed.

inside the trans pan, requires removal

check the stop light switch, this switch is two way put the key to on, if you press the brake pedal, there will be a wire that will off power while stepping on foot brake, when release, 12volts will occur, check that circuit before gping to trans troubleshooting

If the battery is fully charged but the starter is slow, the starter may have an internal short or may just be worn out. Make sure your battery is fully charged and the battery terminals are clean and tight though before buying a new starter.

BODY CONTROL BEHIND GLOVE ON TOP OF HVAC CASE THE ENGINE CONTROL MODULE IS ON THE PASS SIDE UN THE END OF THE HVAC CASE CLOSE TO THE HVAC PROGRAMMER

It should have a 195 degree thermostat. It may look like 210 degrees on some gauges.

Check in the Engine Compartment Box, this details can find it in Cadillac Eldorado - Owners Manual (page 328 and next) for fuse/relay location and description.

Good luck (remember comment and rated this).

I've heard up to $4000 on a 1990s or later Cadillac. The transmission might have to be removed.

A used engine can cost $3000.

However, if you are experiencing a seepage problem with antifreeze into a cylinder, for instance, try using a $33 Bar's Leaks solution from your local auto parts store. It may seem expensive for a pour in solution, but I tried it on my 1997 Cadillac Deville Limousine and it worked.

Actually, Cadillac recommends that a sealant for the antifreeze be used anytime it is flushed or a major cooling component, such as a water pump, is replaced.

put a flat screwdriver either side and slightly prise them out ,they are just push in but after nearly 20yrs old the plastic goes brittle so they will no doubt break so keep some araldite handy to repair them ,or go to a scrapyard and pratice on them ones first

NO SPECIAL TOOL. MAKE SURE TO REPLACE THE FILTER THAT IS ON THE FUEL PUMP. AND ALSO REPLACE THE FILTER ON THE FRAME. JAKE.B

Since you said it stalled out first, and then wouldn't start, we would assume that these are related, but not necessarily. If they are related, the bad or discharged battery would not explain both as the alternator would have provided power to keep it running. Loose or corroded battery terminals or wires that provide power to the computer and ignition would. A neutral safety switch that assures that it is in neutral or park may be better or it may not be in neutral or park, again not explaining why it would stall. It is always wise to disconnect the battery cables when spraying your engine compartment. Check your main fuses as they may have blown from the water grounding something out.

Look on frame rail near fuel tank, on drivers side.

I would do a pressure test on the cooling system to see if you might have a blown head gasket, causing pressure to build up in the cooling system. You probably have tried a lower pressure radiator cap?

It sounds like your describing the air pump for the ride control system. You may have a bad leveling sensor causing the pump to run continuously

costs like $100 an hour for automotive electrician. use a curcit breaker (looks like a fuse) its silver put it in wher the blown fuse is. buy a compass. and runn the compass over the wiring . when the compas moves in the direction of wiring its in that area. a short curcit creats a magnetic feild.

disconect both batery cables and touch them together for 3 seconds waite a few minuts and connect batery back up. and see what that does

the best way to find out is to call a junk yard