1989 Cadillac Brougham - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Mr. Lakewood,
The thermostat is in the housing at the end of the top radiator hose where it connects to the engine manifold. The thermostat housing is clamped onto the hose and is bolted to the engine manifold by two bolts.
1. Drain enough coolant from the cooling system to a level below the height of the thermostat housing.
2. Remove the two bolts and separate the housing from the manifold.
3. Remove the thermostat from the engine. You may have to pry it out if it is stuck. (Don't be alarmed if there is no thermostat. Some mechanics remove them for troubleshooting).
4. Scrape off the old gasket and sealant from the housing and the manifold.
5. Install new thermostat, pointy side towards radiator.
6. Use Permatex #2 (non-hardening sealant) on both sides of the new gasket and bolt down the housing.
7. Replenish cooling system.
8. Start engine, allow to warm up and check for leaks.
9 *done*

The Permatex #2 gasket sealant ($4 AutoZone) is in a small tube. One small tube is more than enough.

have an accredited service shop do a carby check as it could be a float level to high, incorrect mixture adjustment or power valve /pump incorrectly fitted black smoke is excessive fuel and a rebuilt carby, if done by a DIY, is always suspect

Can be so many things, special after you changed (rebuilt it) things. Can be a plug, wrongly connected, build in a defective part. A bad dynamo or voltage regulator. Try to find what is working and where the voltage is not coming or to low. Would be almost impossible for anyone else to diagnose, if a skilled rebuilder can't find what is wrong, when he is working on the car.

Think this model is a fuel sending unit located INSIDE the gas tank. Sure it needs one? Check all your fuses and relays associated with the fuel delivery system. When you turn your key to the :"Run" or "On" position, do you hear a whine coming from the rear (fuel tank area) of your car? If you do, you dont need a fuel pump. If not, double check all fuses and relays and wires & connections. The part is expensive and very difficult to replace by the average shade tree mechanic. I would rather pay someone else to do it and I am pretty good with good tools - it is that difficult. Good luck.

This is a chat room Were at home & use the site like you do No info like that here Check all the fuses,the sizes are in your owners manual & on the fuse panel

Located in the Carb.where the main fuel line goes into.Please use 2 wrenchs to remove the line and the filter housing otherwise you may bend and damage the fuel line. When putting in the new filter remove the rubber and spring that goes into the new filter....Tjis is not a necessary item and it will resiult in a better fuel flow.

It probably is your P/S Belt. The P/S belt is adjusted different than the other belts. There is a slot in the pully that has to be lined up with the adjusting bolt on the pump. I think the adjusting bolt is more towsrd the bottom part of the pump. Tighten this up and that should repair the screaming.

Hello we do not have wiring diagrams here, they are copy protected. You can download them for a small fee here

The Brougham is the rear wheel drive version - so the washer pump is mounted on the wiper motor.Depending on what is wrong with the pump, you could replace it or rebuild it. A mechanic would make sure the wiper motor is getting power to the pump when you engage the switch.

There are two bolts to loosen. One is in the hole on the pulley. The other is on the bottom behind the pulley. Both were 15mm bolts. I had to take the upper fan shroud off, and the fan and clutch off to get to the botttom bolt. Once loosened, pry the power steering pump/pulley closer and put the belt on. Then pry it back and tighten the bolts.

either it is worn out do to losseness, or the internal parts have gone bad.

this is not a do it yourself repair.

you have to be very carefull with the wiring especially the air bag (it can go of in your face)

your best bet is to have a good caddy tech take a look at it Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

When you go to start it up, instead of starting the vehicle on the first try, turn key on and then turn it back off. Wait a few seconds and repeat this about 3 or 4 times. If it now starts up at the next attempt, the fuel pressure regulator is either bad and letting the fuel back into the tank, or the fuel pump check valve is bad and doing the same thing.

It would be worth checking or changing the air, fuel and oil filters and if that doesn't help try getting the engine codes checked with an obd reader.
Hope this helps.

It's not a direct bolt in. (sorry) Olds mounts and housing aren't even close. Just about any olds motor (you can find them at any salvage/engine rebuilder pretty reasonable) will bolt in. It would take alot of work to work the chev into Caddy.

I'm not familiar with you vehicle (I'm in the UK) but they are all the same, Do you mean on a 5 stud wheel? if you do then its do one miss one, go around and just nip them up on the first pass then tighten to the correct torque. On a 4 stud nip up opposites then tighten to correct torque

Hello: If this is a rear wheel drive, you will find a dip stick under the hood towards the passenger side rear of the engine compartment remove the dip stick (should have a red handle) with a proper size funnel add transmission fluid through the tube for the dipstick. If it is a front wheel drive the procedure is the same except on the front wheel drive the dipstick is on the driver side toward the rear of the engine compartment. Check the fluid with the engine running. Do not overfill. Does the engine speed up when you press the accelerator? If so if the car moves after you put fluid in the transmission the you need to find out where the leak is and repair it. Use dextron3 transmission fluid

Most large shops have a diagnostic and charge anywhere from 50-90 bucks to run it on your car. That of course does not include any repair. Autozone and Advance both advertise that they will hook up their little 30 dollar unit to your car and tell you the error codes. That however is limited to the reader, which may well only be for cars after 96, and the skill of the employee who was making pizza last week and delivering newspapers the week before.

You add fluid at the P/S reservoir which is belt driven. There is a large cap on top. Remove the cap and there is a built in dip stick. Unless you have a leak you will never have to add fluid.

GM Cadillac 1967-1989 Repair Guide
Fuel Pump - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Chassis-Mounted Fuel Pump (EFI System)

CAUTION Fuel is under high pressure; if the steps below are not followed, the fuel could spray out and result in a fire hazard and possible injury.

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Locate the pressure fitting in the fuel line and remove the protective cap.
3. Loosely install a special valve depressor (G.M. tool no. J-5420) on the fitting.
4. Wrap a towel around the fitting to block any spray and slowly tighten the tool until the pressure has been relieved.
5. Remove the tool and reinstall the protective cap.
6. Remove the fuel hoses from the pump.
7. Peel back the rubber boot and remove the two nuts, one from each electrical terminal. Remove the electrical leads.
   

These nuts have metric threads.

1. Remove the two screws and flat washers holding the fuel pump to the bracket and remove the pump assembly.
   

To install:

1. Install the fuel pump in the reverse order of removal.
2. Connect the green wire to the positive terminal on the pump and the black wire to the negative terminal. Check to make sure the fuel pump is resting evenly on its two mounts and not grounding against the bracket or frame.

In-Tank Fuel Pump (DFI and EFI Systems)
See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, open the fuel tank filler door and disconnect the sending unit feed wire. Release the fuel pressure.
2. Siphon the fuel from the fuel tank. If the rear of the car is raised one foot higher than the front, more fuel can be taken out.
3. Raise the rear of the car and remove the screw securing the ground wire to the cross member.
4. Disconnect the fuel line, evaporative emission lines and the fuel return lines at the front of the tank.
5. Support the tank with a jack and wooden block and remove one screw on each side securing the fuel tank support straps to the body at the front of the tank.
6. Lower the jack and tank enough so that the fuel pump electrical lead can be disconnected. Disconnect the wire.
7. Remove the fuel tank from the car.
8. Remove the locknuts securing the fuel gauge tank unit and fuel pump feed wires to the tank unit.
9. Turn the cam locking ring counterclockwise with a soft non-ferrous punch and hammer. When the lock ring is disengaged, remove it and lift the gauge/pump unit from the tank.
10. Install in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the fuel tank retaining strap screws to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
    

Fig. 1: In-tank fuel pump


Testing

1. Secure two sections of 3 / 8 in. x 10 in. (steel tubing), with a double-flare on one end of each section.
2. Install a flare nut on each section of tubing, then connect each of the sections into the flare nut-to-flare nut adapters, which are included in the Gauge Adapter tool No. J-29658-82.
3. Attach the pipe and the adapter assemblies to the Gage tool No. J-29658.
4. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands.
5. Remove the air cleaner and plug the THERMAC vacuum port on the TBI.
6. Disconnect the fuel feed hose between the fuel tank and the filter, then secure the other ends of the 3 / 8 in. tubing into the fuel hoses with hose clamps.
7. Start the engine, check for leaks and observe the fuel pressure, it should be 9-13 psi.
8. Depressurize the fuel system, remove the testing tool, remove the plug from the THERMAC vacuum port, reconnect the fuel line, start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Hope this help (remember comment and rated this) TY for using Fixya.