20 Most Recent 1990 Acura Legend - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Try a higher grade fuel. You may be getting vapor lock. Use an injector cleaner to get better fuel delivery. ( spray pattern). Fuel needs to spray as a vapor and clogged injectors will cause spitting

sounds like the torque converter seal is leaking. trans will have to be pulled in ordr to fix, or just keep a real sharp eye on the fluid level.

Lift the hood to find the rear of each head lamp assembly. there is cup-shaped cover over the rear that needs to be rotated 1/4 turn one way or the other and removed to access the bulb inside. With fingers or needle-nose pliers, depress and unhook the centering wire-keepers off of the bulb and pull-out the bulb by the connector. you can now replace the bulb

Follow the upper radiator hose and where it is attached to engine block, that is where the thermostat housing is. SHould have 3 bolts on it.

a 91-95 bodykit will not work unfortunatey.but you can purchase one for older legends. Try Hondatuner magazines website

Have you cat converter checked. If your exhaust smells like rotten eggs or sulphur, it's bad

The hydraulic valve lifters are getting stuck. Do this... buy cheap oil on your next oil change and do the change at home. Buy "sea foam' at your local parts shop and put it in the engine along with the old oil. Read the specs on the Sea foam bottle as it will require you to run the car at idle for a certain amount of time.DO NOT DRIVE, JUST IDLE! Then once the time is up drain the old oil and re fill with more of the cheap oil. Drive for 500 miles and proceed to do the process again. Do it twice. If it does not cure it, you need to have the lifters replaced. This works 80% of the time tho. After it's gone, use the good oil. Synthetic or synthetic blend 10W30

No they are much different.91-95 are a bigger bofy style and more "Rounded"

could be the crank angle sensor. If that's the problem the ECU under the passenger seat (sedans) or passenger carpet (coupes) will read out the code for it.

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f13/ecu-codes-what-they-mean-g1-g2-1972/

if it's the crank angle sensor that's bad, your car will run rough (rpm will fluctuate and it may hesitate) and will stall sometimes.

can be $1000 to fix at the shop, but you can find a DIY online and do it for $70. Took me 2 hours, and I know nothing about cars. And you don't have to remove the timing belt either. good luck!
-MH

Here are 2 links, one is for the location of the ignition timing adjuster, the other, a diagram on how to adjust the ignition timing. I hope this helps with your problem. All the best!
Greg

http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/8426/images/84262034.pdf

http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/8426/images/84262035.pdf

If you lean into the engine compartment from the passenger side to look at the pully side of the alternator, you will find a bolt (10mm I think) sort of behind the alternator and to the back left. It is sticking straight up, and you can use a nut driver or ratchet to turn it counter clockwise to loosen tension and lower the alternator. But you have to loosen the locking bolt first. When you look at the pully side of the alternator (once the plastic shroud is removed to expose the belt and pully) you will see 2 large bolts (one on the bottom right and one on the bottom left) on the alternator that hold it in place. The one on the bottom left (on the same side as the tension adjusting bolt) is the locking bolt. You will see that there is a track for it to slide along as the alternator swings up and down. If you loosen this bolt, the alternator should be free to swing down on the left side when you adjust the adjusting bolt. However, it is common for the alternator to stick even after you have loosened the locking bolt and . When I adjusted mine, I had to remove the bolt on the bottom right because my alternator had been in there so long is was stuck in place. (The alternator is supposed to pivot on the right bolt, but sometimes it sticks.)

bad head light switch or wire shorting to ground.

turn radio off unplug negative battery cable for 1 minute.then put it back.

I am very excited because I have the same problem and thought it was transmission but went to my mechanic today and he found that some computers were giving codes on my car. One computer module is under Right Passenger seat, turn key on but do not start car and read how many times that light flashes, then ask mechanice to tell you what the code means. In my case what is causing the tranny to slip is the need for a new speed sensor control module. So, you may just need one of those too instead of a new tranny. !!!! Since my Legend was flashing a code 15, my mechanic pulled the fuse that you are supposed to pull when this 15 code comes up and hold it out of fuel box for 10 seconds and then put it back in. This reset the computer and then it showed no code, (no flashing light.) He told me to drive it for awhile and then check again to see if a code was flashing. If nothing flashes then you are OK. If it does flash, count number of times it flashes and tell the mechanic. If the light flashes, it means it is a "code". If it flashes 15 times it is a speed control sensor messing up the transmission capability and just needs the speed control sensor replaced!!
He also checked a computer under the rug of the passenger side dashboard under the glove box. It was flashing a 2, (2X). He pulled the fuse that corresponds to that and held it out for 10 seconds to reset it, and now it does not flash, ie shows no code, so that is fine. But check those 2 computers on your Acura to see if it is giving you flashing light in either of them, and if so, count how many times it flashes, and then you will know if it is really the transmission.

My car runs a HECK of a lot better now that he reset the codes. I think something got "off" when my alternator was replaced and they had to be reset.

I am thrilled I won't have to replace transmission!!

the pcm relay needs replaced.boy i haven't seen this problem in about 10 years but way back when i would see it alot. the part is under the drivers side dash it is about 3 by 1 1/2 inches in size.it is not very expensive.hope this helped!

If the tapping noise speeds up with engine speed, a bad valve lifter.Depending on if it has hydraulic valve lifters.

Just an indication that a sensor has probably gone bad, and thus the sysem has defaulted to "off". You can test this, of course... Find a safe place, accelerate to 50 MPH. Hit brakes as hard as you possibly can press them.

EEEEEEEEERT!!!!! ? Anti-Lock is off.

Thumpa-Thumpa-Thumpa? Anti-Lock still working!

Thumpa - (screeeee from one wheel) - Thumpa? You've found the culprit...

under the dash on the draver side there is the full relay it might be badd.....