Top 10 2003 Honda Accord Questions & Answers

Further to Emmisionwiz's answer that worked for me - the holes are in the black plastic covering the radiator support, to each side more or less in line with the headlights. They are marked with an "A" and rotation directions for UP and DOWN. The Phillips screwdriver goes into the hole about 45 degrees from vertical and engages the adjusting rack, where the teeth of the Phillips screwdriver are the pinion. If you shine a flashlight down the hole you can see the rack teeth and all becomes clear. But you will need a long Phillips screwdriver and a little bit of luck.

In the owner's manual it says the lights are adjusted correctly at the dealership and if they need adjustment because of a trailer then take the car to a Honda certified mechanic.

I have a 2004 Accord also and the method is the same for that one too.

With the car turned off and the battery disconnected, root around under the dash and find the wiring harness that comes down from the steering column. You may have to remove a dash panel or two to get at it. It should be connected to the car's main wiring harness with a plug of some sort. Disconnect the plug.

Using a multi-meter set to test continuity, test pairs of pins in the connector from the steering column, pressing the CC switch with each pair, until you find the pair that come from the CC switch.

Isolate the wires for these two pins behind the plug and scrape away a tiny bit of insulation with a knife blade, being careful not to cut through the wire. Test the wire pair again to be sure you've got the CC switch wires.

Cut the wires, leaving several inches of wire above the plug to work with. Using a good quality crimp connector (or soldering, if you know how and have the equipment), connect the two wires you just cut loose (the two coming from the plug, not the steering column).

Make sure there are no bare wires *anywhere* when you're done. Cover everything with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape, then use a tie-wrap to bind all the wires together again. Return the wiring harness to where you found it and re-install any dash panels you had to remove.

Reconnect the battery and go for a drive. The CC switch will be totally out of the circuit, but your CC should be permanently turned on.

Now here's the fun part. You'll have an extra momentary-contact switch on your steering wheel that's not doing anything. Just think of the possibilities... You could use it for an auxiliary air horn like on a semi-truck, or you could wire it into your brake lights so you could screw with tail-gaters without actually stepping on the brakes. Look for the switch somewhere on your brake pedal assembly and add two wires from the old CC switch to the contacts on the brake pedal switch.

number "1" cylinder is all ways the one at the front of the block on the left side

easy to sort out this one ,remove the thermostat and then refit the housing ,disconnect a heater hose ,connect hose to it and turn it on till it runs clear,then reverse the flow ,till it runs clear.refit the thermostat and then put in 2 litres of pure 100% eythelene glycol antifreeze ,not a solution or any specific colour antifreeze as per some manual .best advice i can give is take the bottom hose off ,let it drain then refill with the neat antifreeze minimum of 2 litres but if you put more in it will not hurt ,depending on your zone like norway or alaska i would use 100% pure antifreeze ,it will not hurt anything or cause any problems like overheating in the summer if fact its better for the cooling system .When i service vehicles i just fill too the top with neat antifreeze ,it will find its own level in service and iam in alicante spain where we hardly ever see frost but i always top up with neat stuff to prevent corrosion of the cooling system .Yes i know the book says drain it every 3 yrs and refill but ?? be pratical if your worried just drain a drop out like i said and then refill with neat .You will not go wrong or damage anything if the colour isnt ford blue or opel pink ,its all the same stuff .

To fix your problem, you have to turn the steering wheel either to the left or right as much as you can, then try to turn the key in the ignition. When the steering wheel locks, the key won't turn. By manually holding the steering wheel out of the lock position, the key will turn again and you're steering column will be back to normal.

First, you shouldn't adjust the idle. If the idle isn't correct, that means there is an issue somewhere - not that the idle needs to be adjusted.

There isn't an adjustment screw. To adjust the idle, you will need to move the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) forwards or backward. To do this, you will need to remove the tamper proof bolt and replace it with one that can be loosened and tightened.

So my driver side door won't lock and unlock with the key....So I got out of my car and it automatically locked the doors...I had to crawl through my trunk to unlock the back door....then the alarm started going off and now my car won't crank.

the shift should have a small screw or pin holding it on .once you remove the handle part you should be able you stick a thin screw driver down the tube and shift it

podria ser posible que el terminal de la bateria o la bateria incluso ha ido mal.

Yes I agree with the air leak theory. Code 507 actually means the computer can not bring the idle speed down using the iac valve.
Look for a vac leak between the throttle body and intake or something holding the throttle plate open.