20 Most Recent 1996 Cadillac DeVille - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Step_1 disconnect inlet (top hose) & outlet bottom) hose. I'm assuming you're replacing a corroded radiator. They now offer copper or plastic radiators that have high resistance to corrosion. If you replace with alluminum or steel radiator, do a flush job yearly with replace with the green radiiator solution or the red one if you replaced with aluminum radiator. Step_2 disconnect the electric fan. first unhook the wire connection, then loosen the 4 screws that's holding the fan assembly against the radiator. Step_3 Loosen the bolts holding the radiator unit. When re-attaching the new radiiator, install new hoses as well. Fill the radiator through the pressure relief cap with 60-40 radiator to water mixture. The instructions say 50-50, but 60-40 is a stronger solution that prevents freezing, boiling, & corrosion buildup. It there's a coolant filter, replace this unit as well. It looks like an oil filter cartridge. Preventive miantainance: Perform a coolant flush every 50K miles. Most car manufacturers recommend 30K miles or 2 years, which ever comes first, but that's to boo$t revenue for car dealership service centers. IMO the max is 70K or 2 years. When you notice the temperature is overheating in the summer months, an engine radiator flush AND replacing the thermostat is the solution. Most shops will say "you need a new water pump" and the scammer had not even performed a diagnostic test. The water pump will last the life of the engine (140K+ miles) unless the car had run dry without radiator fluid. The radiator fluid lubricates the water pump. Running the engine dry (or low of) without radiator fluid damages the water pump. Running tap water instead of 50-50 or 40-60 radiator fluid mixture will also cause premature wear on the water pump because water by itself is insufficient lubricant on the water pump.

IT could be and in checking it out I would suggest a pan off and the clutch pack and bands adjusted .

The security light icon is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

try dropping down a width size in tyres and see if that will give you the clearance you need That is if you have 250 -50/22 tyres now come back to say 200-50/22 tyres . I don't know what tyres you are running but what I am saying is get the side walls to sit up straighter by putting on a narrower tyre . There will be a solution and the people to talk with are your local tyre shop people.. You may also be able to fit plates behind the rims on longer wheel studs to give you the clearance you require.

The security picture/icon is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

THERE IS A RELAY CONNECTOR THAT GOES TO THE BLOWER AND THAT CAN BE REPLACE AND THAT WILL PICK UP ALL 1234 SPEEDS THEY ALWAYS TEND TO GO OUT IN TIME

There are two fuses, but you have one for each side and they handle both high and low beam circuits. You should have power on the red yellow wire coming from the multi-function switch going to the low beam on the driver side.

check alt. wires and connector first (wires burnt behind front exhaust manifold)

did you run a compression check? if so and its good then you have a blockage in the water jacket
if not then you have a head gasket leaking

Just wondering if you put in the correct amount of oil and tightened everything back up properly...

no blower on any modes? test power and ground at blower motor. if good replace blower motor

no a factory over ride for northstar cars. test codes in rss, also see if links for front height sensors are hooked up

its on the drivers side under the air intake line from your air filter box

Can be egr valve, enginge usually shakes back and forth like a huge miss most times. I would definatly check in this order: fuel filter, fuel pump. Sometimes the pump may run, but be too weak to run an engine at speed or under load. If you replace the filter and pump, and it still don't help, then at least you know for sure its not the pump or filter, and move on to the egr, vacuum leaks, etc. Sometimes its a "search till you find it" type thing.

Bad Heater Element Under Dash By Heater Bad Connection On Fuel Pump Assembly