20 Most Recent 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The system info is here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_teves_mk20.htm

that means the damper are failing. most have damper motors. and the tests are in the FSM book, did your read this first. the Factory service manual. the WJ book, read HVAC chapter and wiring same? do you have option (day 1 option, got this?) AUTOMATIC ZONE CONTROL SYSTEM if yes, there is a self check mode, defined in the book. eg ENTERING THE AZC SELF-DIAGNOSTIC MODE To enter the AZC self-diagnostic mode, perform the following: (1) Depress the A/C and Recirc buttons at the same time and hold. Rotate the left temperature control knob clockwise (CW) one detent. (2) If you continue to hold the A/C and Recirc buttons depressed, the AZC control module will perform a Segment Test of the vacuum fluorescent (VF) display. In the Segment Test you should see all of the display segments illuminate as long as both buttons are held. If a display segment fails to illuminate, the vacuum fluorescent display is faulty and the heater- A/C control must be replaced. (3) After viewing the Segment Test, release the A/C and Recirc buttons and the display will clear momentarily. If a 0 is displayed, then no faults are set in the system. Should there be any faults, either "current9 or "historical", all fault codes will be displayed in ascending numerical sequence (note no effort is made to display fault codes in chronological order). Each fault code is displayed for one second before the next code is displayed. Once all fault codes have been displayed, the system will then repeat the fault code numbers. This will continue until the left side set temperature control is moved at least one detent position in the CW direction or the ignition is turned "OFF". then a huge list of 2 digit codes. ask. or login to alldata.com like we do.... its all there. $15 or buy the book, when you buy the car, if DIY handy. $88 here https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/FacetSearchResults.aspx?make=Jeep&year=1999&model=Grand+Cherokee&producttype=Service+Manuals&ptCatId=3083 posted 100s of times now.... where to get accurate data ! the HVAC on this car is complex. some have vacuum servo motors and some have electric motors controlling the damper/bend doors. you will first see they are dead. but why , is the hard part. post back which system you have. AZC or not. below is vacuum wonder servo's (actuators) got VAC?

The p1686 code means : No SKIM BUS Message received. possible causes: 1. Invalid SKIM key. 2.wiring harness intermittent defect. 3.PCM DEF INTERNAL PCI BUS OPEN. 4.PCM PCI BUS CIRCUIT OPEN. The first thing I would do is check the wiring harness unplug and check for loose pins then reconnect. Hope this helps.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service its in the book, read this yet, posted 100s of times? its in the JB (cab fuse box) in the CAB.

Look inside around the engine compartment if not it must be under the dashboard driverside inside the fuse box

Check your Brake Light Switch, more than likely it is broken. It is located UNDER THE DASH1/2 the way up the BACK SIDE of the BRAKE PEDAL

check the brake switch

Check for power to your brakelight switch this located at the top of the brake pedal. I see alot of these go bad.

your battery is dead from cranking it so much. Charge the battery and then it should start

The rear window washer should be utilizing its own switch. Clean out the spray nozzle as well.

This could be due to a number of causes, as the steering is a chain of linkages or joints: -steering wheel securing nut loose -steering shaft universal joint worn or loose -steering box mountings worn or loose (common) -tie rod inner ball joints worn or loose (if any) -tie rod ends worn (most likely) Jack up the front of the car both sides and secure it with axle stands or some other safe means, have someone hang on to the steering wheel, and waggle each road wheel in and out by gripping it at 9 and 3 o'clock. You should be able to feel the slack. Have another person use a strong flashlight to try to see where this is occurring. You may need to take it to a front suspension shop as sometimes special tools are needed, and you will need a wheel alignment anyway.

alarm or Immobilizer, which? its 2 things, one prevents(lol) entry, other kills engine fueling,.(immo) (theft) did you google that, i see you have not. as there is no lack of information on that topic. you stated bypass, what is that. mean.? hack it and defeat for ever.? and which part? or to just not enable the alarm part?, as stated clearly in the operators guide, (lost that>)? if you use the metal key on the door lock this will disable (for now) the alarm. mines been off for 5 years,now.. but the IMMO is not hackable.99+ sorry not. 1999 and newer skim keys (immo) is not hackable. and if it were, id never tell you, ..... but its not. the older cars are.... but you can google as well as me....

stay

unscrew the bolts

above the starter,right side of motor

It has a Vehicle Speed Sensor on the transmission that has three wires going to it. I would make sure it is plugged in good. Do you have a CEL, and if so, have you had the codes read? If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/tom_1788908372a4836f

it sounds to me like it is a blower motor not the engine.(heater fan)

If the start and run fine are on cold starts, I would look for vacuum leaks. The normal start mode for these things is to have a richer condition upon a cold start. When the ECU detects warmth in the engine is drops the extra rich cold start mode then the idle goes rough due to the normal mixture being too lean due to a vacuum leak. Look for cracked, loose or broken vacuum hoses. It could also be due to a EGR valve stuck open.

so pulling the gas tank is first? really? no engine stated, so must guess... on parts. 4.0l or 4.7liter?/?????? the 4.7 has 8 cop spark coils. so???? the 4.7 is a V8. so?? Cops or not make big differences. ever get a full tune up this decade, white all parts. if COPs with new boots? spark plugs, and air filter?? the ECU also tells you at stall why it did, most times, the not looking makes it 10x harder to find, the ASD relay may of dropped out. (with DTC missed by you) the PCM works OT, to not allow stalls, so if it did, its real bad. here is how ASD works http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html now stalls, in the macro views, (physics) 1: lost 12vdc to PCM or spark 2 lost compresion to any or all cylinders. 3: lost or weak spark or ASD drops off , then engine dies. 4: bad fueling, (too much or too little for many reasons. so the fast right foot fails to keep it going that means ASD DROPPED OR fuel is cut or it flooded so if it dont start and its seems flooded, snif sniff, then use super secret unflood mode, cranking wot, wide open throttle cuts all fueling clearing said flood, if it wont start, pull in mr. obd2 scan tool crank for 5 seconds, and release key (not off) scan tool tells you most the time why. dont be blind learn to use a scan tool and they are cheap. less that 2hours shop labor. so.... its and investment. grade. thing. with future pay back and even profit, (do the math) i have a innova 3160 just for my jeep and 6 more for other cars. this tool sees ALL jeep codes, factory codes and full live data.

Did you check the bulbs? If one bulb is burned out, the blinkers won't word on that side. You could have one bulb burned out on each side. Start the car, put left signal on. Check front and back lights. Is one light on but not blinking? If that's the case, the light that's not on at all is burned out and has broken the circuit so the good light stays on and won't blink. Check the other side. You also have a 'flasher' , actually 2. One for emergency flashers, one for the turn signals. It could be that the turn signal flasher is shot. You just have to unplug it to remove. It's probably located near the fuses. good luck countrycurt0