20 Most Recent 1991 Honda CRX - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hi Ica, I would suggest you go to the dealer, as they would be the most likely to supply it or advise where to get it. Regards John

Try tracing the wires and looking for a worn spot in insulation that is grounding out, its a royal pain but might be the only solution, use wire prob and test areas where inaccessible. good luck

I don't know much about cars, but I've got a service manual for your care in case you need one. It's BIG, 300mb.

Let me know if you need it.

drums are not hard to replace. I found the best instructions in my Haynes auto manual that you can buy at any of the large auto parts stores for about $20.00 if no money check one out of the library

What does the engine computer under the passenger seat show for an error?This assumes the computer is not corroded severely being exposed where it is as that in itself may be the reason for not starting.

Your car might be in need of repair. Bad sensors. Go to an auto parts store and ask them to turn off the codes

You didn't mention how old the battery is but it could be that it has reached the the end of it's life. Just about anyplace that sells batteries will test it for free. As for a draw, it is possible for any number of things to run down the battery overnight including the diodes inside the alternator. (yes it can make a charge and still have a bad diode) Even the battery itself can be internally shorted. To determine if something in the cars electrical system is causing the draw, the next time you park it disconnect the battery, if it is dead the next day...viola' you have a bad battery. If not you have some more work to do. Try step one and if that doesn't get you anywhere, get back on here and we can go over what to do next.

SENSOR ON THE BACK OF THE MANIFOLD...IAC

well a car needs air, gas, and electricity to run. air that i know of is very, very hard to go out, so we should rule out that possibility. now spark. the alternator usually gives a battery light, and well your car you said is turning over so probably not alternator. the distributor when is bad cuts off after a couple of minutes of driving and restarts hours after it cools down. so that leaves gas. unfortunately it can be either bad, or really bad. if its bad, then its a clogged fuel filter, which isnt expensive to change but it is a little bit hard. if you get a mechanic to do it, it should cost $50. this is bad because it means that you might need to save up for a fuel pump. if its really bad, you need to get a new fuel pump which costs around $500 to change.

note: what i listed above are only the most common possibilities. there are also other possibilities. one thing you should start by checkin is all of your fuses. an important fuse like the ecu or main relay fuse may have blown. also, you might want to have your mechanic check your main relay as it does control your fuel pump. also, check your belts, make sure they spin or are even on right. another thing you should know is that when having an engine rebuilt you should have a year of warranty in case the rebuild is unsuccesful. it is possible that either it wasnt succesful, or the timing belt slipped or something internal happened. so ask your mechanic and have him check it out. well i hope this helps. goodluck

sounds like the cluch if its reving in gear and not moveing.

for a simple answer, yes-it has to have sufficent line pressure to engage, and low levels will dramatically affect line pressure.

1991 honda crx.Here the fix the transponder is non op. they have an adjuster or a sensitivity on it, but over all this is a sign that it has worn out.because it is not seviceable. Oh wait a second that could be a sfety device what happens if you forget the key in the car youll get lock out.I think it might be a god idea to use the key fob

Hi and welcome to Fixya!

How bout the plugs? The spark plugs may have been worn out that's why it won't fire up the fuel. Please do replace as a first course of action.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! have a good one!

If I recall its on the front side of the engine but to get to it you have to be under the car. It could be on the rear side though depends which engine you have. But from under the car you cant miss it.

if its unplugged in steering wheel, then every time you turn the wire end is hitting metal and grounding out. have a good day!!

For this engine the valve lash if; Intake .007-.009 and the exhaust valves are .009-.011. Be sure to adjust these when the engine is cold, as a warm exgine will affect the measurements. The locknuts should be torqued to 10 ft/lbs. REMEMBER..."loose is good"..in other words when adjusting the valves DO NOT make them "tight feeling" with the feeler gauge. If you do, you run the very real danger of burning the valves. Honda, I believe, recommends that you should check these every 15k to 24k miles. Happy motoring !

My main concern is that in 1990 Honda offered 2 engines...the D15B1 or the D16A6. I am going to assume that the engine in question is a D16A6, and the torque specs is; 47 ft/lbs for cylinder head bolts. When installing the bolts, dip them in CLEAN motor oil before inserting them into the block, and then tighten them as follows; there are 5 bolts in the front of the head, and 5 bolts in the rear. For the sake of explaination the front bolts are numbered from left to right...1,2,3,4,5 and the rear bolts are numbered from left to right...6,7,8,9,10. The correct tightening sequence for this arrangement would be; 3,8,2,9,4,7,5,6,1,10. I would recommend tightening the bolts to ~26 ft/lbs the first round, and then to 47 ft/lbs for the final round. Hope that this helps.

Assuming this is front wheel drive, most likely worn CV (Constant Velocity) joints which connect the transmission output to the wheels. Also check the wheel are secure, nuts are tight, trims are in place and nothing rolling around inside them.

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