20 Most Recent 1997 Suzuki Swift Questions & Answers

Your car has fuel injection. There is no carburetor.

It should be oil....but it is easy to figure out what it may be by its color.obviously fresh oil is amber to brown...dirty oil is almost black. transmission fluid in automatics should be a shade of red. Clutch and brake fluid light yellow.

welcome to USA the country with not ONE KHYBER.where are you , must we guess that?what in the world is Khyber? you in Pakistan,?or India? sure. Rupee's cash.you guessed many times an added vast partsbut not once did you test nor diagnose causes.nor get a real brake shop to fix it.you want to fix it, why>?do you think you can learn in this text box>?be like IMPOSSIBLE here.we can guess, adding to your thinner wallet ,endlessly.,got ABS? (antilock brake system>)? be first,bleed and gets hard then goes softthe word is spongy,if brakes (pedal) goes spongy, that means you have air .and can come from any place in the whole system.more later.I edited your post to USA Englishbut failed at the word "back lathers" google fails here, to discover this word. why?.(soap, horse sweat, what?)what is that?>now my guess, (near useless not hands on)if all lines are good, no damage or rustfor 20 long years.and all caliper pistons are good, leaks there.and no ABS there.and no bad real wheel brake cylindersor no bad, inline, load balance devices.then you are BLEEDING WRONG.if there is no breach of the system. no leaksthen you bleed it wrong.there are 5 ways to bleed.a good shop is ready to do all ways at anytime!if a system was fully drained and full of airas can be with radial parts swaps, did you.we do at least 2 ways to bleed. starting at 1here they are, and some takes REAL TOOLS.1: gravity bleed good to use on fully breached full of air system.2: 2 man bleed, one at pedal, other at cylinders and barking orders to man 1. (100 years done this way) old as grandpa....3: pressure bleeding, at the MC top, a tool.4: reverse bleeding ,at bleeder valves all.,a tool.5: vacuum bleeding with the vacuum hand toolwe bleed from long line to short.i use this way often but gently as not to suckair past seals.if you put in a new MC? yes you did.that rear actuator rod must set with a gapor the MC will fail.in most cased done wrong tires SKID.all this is in the service manual how to get the MC and booster calibrated or car is a danger to drive to you and others.

Dirty throttle body, dirty air filter,any codes?

did u meter them just because they look ok they need to be metered also has the harness come loose?

In a Suzuki of that age (assuming you have the OHC engine), the most likely culprit is a broken timing belt.

This sounds like the instrument cluster has gone faulty, unfortunately. With any luck, you might be able to find a replacement at a scrap yard somewhere to at least save some money. Otherwise, the dealership is the only other place in which to purchase one of these.

I hope this helps and good luck! :)

can you afford a 10 buck walfart meter? DMM volt meter the battery terms clean fuses checked starter dead, no jumper cables for a old car, its like first buy tool if ever there ways. huh> so you cant jumper cable start car. so we measure battery voltage cranking 11v good, hear clank, bad starter, 12.6v no clank is dead starter or dead keyline hot wire key line, it cranks means key line DEAD. try to crank in neutral? yet< A/t trans, this uses new switch contacts, wow it starts.? lower than 10 v cranking is weak battery, no jumper cables, oops;. or shorted starter, or seized engine, can you turn engine by hand. my guess, is all this is too hard. it takes tools to fix cars, some or are dirt cheap today. unlike say in 1970 .... you in the good times.

may need new window motor or switch

if no air in system. ? and the ball joints are all free (turned by hand) then try a new pump , an cross fingers.

the FSM covers HVAC. buy /barrow one. or at alldata.com, log in ,see it. you will have to gain access to the cables. and levers and to the damper levers.... how to remove all those parts and not break very old plastic takes some skill , some parts just pull off others have hidden screws. here is a quote on control panel.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Pull the control knobs from the levers.
3. Release the latches at the rear of the bezel. Remove the control assembly lens and disconnect the bulb.
4. Disconnect the control cables at the blower and heater assembly.
5. Remove the control assembly fasteners.
6. Pull the control assembly out and disconnect the electrical connections.
7. Disconnect the control cables from the levers.
8. Remove the blower, air conditioning and heater switch

Do you have the car serviced regularly?