2005 Lexus LS400 - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Depends on your experiences working on cars in this year model. Sure if your a professional mechanic you can get it out in less than a half hour but with hand tools and maybe not a full set of professional tools and the experience to pick the right ones it can take all day

if a motor that miss fires that bad i would do a major tune up and all the fixings including spark plugs and plug wires if it had a distrubiter i would replace the cap and rotor and last but not least i would test the coil or coils if it dont have a distrubiter.

xus LS 400 and locate the power steering pump pulley, fluid reservoir and pump on the upper front driver side of the engine.

2 Connect the pulley remove tool to the front of the power steering pulley. Brace the arms on the pulley tool on the **** of the pulley. Connect the metal key in the middle of the pulley tool to the nut in the middle of the pulley. Connect the power drill to the pulley tool and pull the trigger to remove the pulley securing nut. Remove the drive belt and the pulley.

3 Position the drain container under the power steering pump. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the pump using the metric ratchet set. Let the fluid drain from the pump into the drain container. Replace the drain plug to the bottom of the power steering pump.

4 Remove the securing bolts from the right and left side of the reservoir and the pump using the metric ratchet set. Pull the pump upward and disconnect the hose from the bottom of the pump using the wrench. Pull the pump from the engine compartment.

5 Lower the new power steering pump into the engine compartment. Reconnect the hose to the bottom of the power steering pump. Position the new power steering pump onto the engine. Replace the securing bolts the right and left side of the pump and reservoir. Tighten the bolts using the metric ratchet set.

6 Replace the power steering pump pulley the opposite way that you removed it. Reconnect the drive belt.

Fill the power steering pump reservoir with fresh power steering fluid. Start the engine and rotate the steering wheel to circulate the new power steering fluid. I no i gave you directions on how to remove the whole power steering pump question is the pully loose or are you wanting to just change a belt good luck happy holidays

it sounds like the vehicle is starving itself for fuel... if it runs fine in town, or on close trips... sounds like when your on the freeway, and got the gas down its demanding fuel, and not getting what it needs to run, thats why it will start right back up.. if i were you i think i would start with the cheapest thing first and replace the fuel filter.. hope this helps.

GO TO AUTO PART STORES THEY HAVE A POLISH FOR SCRATCHES IN CLEAR COAT, PLASTIC LENS AND GLASS SCRATCHES ALSO.

Sounds like you have the wrong oil type. The 10W30 is a thicker oil and takes a little longer to heat up and lubricate as it should. The 20W50 sounds like it would be thicker but actually isn't. Replace the oil with the proper oil type and it should resolve the issue. Although the steering information kind of throws off the diagnoses since that points to the power steering pump and rack and pinion steering cylinder. To make sure check the fluid level in the power steering pump and make sure they didn't goof and put motor oil in that. If they did go back to them and make them replace all the components they just destroyed. Your vehicle was designed to use 20W50 and you should always use that unless temperature makes it a better choice for the thicker 10W30. If you lived in a desert climate where it stayed hot year round 10W30 would make sense but for normal operations you should always use the recommended oil in the engine. Thicker oils cause the oil pump to work too hard and cause damage to the motor when parts are not lubricated correctly.

Hi! Welcome to FixYa!

May I know the exact model of the car please.

Thanks!

Most of the luxury models and most newer vehicles have a bubble level that is on the back side of the headlamp that can be seen with the hood open and the may be an access cover that wil have to be opened to see it. There is an adjustment on the headlight to "level" the headlight for an optimum projection without blinding oncoming traffic. Here is the thing, you must make sure you vehicle is on a perfectly level surface before leveling you headlamps or everything you do will be a waste of time.

If on dash or door, it usually locks and unlocks the vehicles doors.

does this look right?

If you have not changed your air and/or fuel filter recently, that is a good place to start. Also check your spark plugs and make sure they are gapped properly (.044"). you might also have a vaccum leak somewhere.

If you can access the top of the tank from the trunk, usually a removable panel, check the top around the outlet/return inlet, and all the piping into the tank as well (evaporative lines, filler neck joins, etc.). If you're lucky, it's just a gasket or hose clamp leak. If not, it's probably a leak in the pinch-weld, where the top and bottom half of the fuel tank are joined. It may be possible to see this with a light and mirror without dropping the tank. A weld seam leak means you will need a new or re-manufactured fuel tank.

it could be just as simple as as a clogged fuel filter! its prolly got dirt in the the lines or gas tank my recomendation is to change the fuel filter and then dump a bottle of heat in the gas tank on ur next fill up

1994 Lexus LS 400 4.0 liter DOHC V-8



Hope helps (remember to rate and comment this).

replace it

Hello. Generally that sound is a sign that one of your relays is on it's last legs. I had this happen when my A/C relay went south. Joe

You can replace the ignition without the key but I would like to tell you a couple of problems you may still have.If there is no keyless entry or number code pad to open the doors,you either cannot lock it or have to replace them.If there is no trunk latch or button inside,you cannot access the trunk.If you have never done an ignition switch,it will be very tedious,time consuming,and test your patience.You should at least get a parts breakdown or instruction from a repair manual if you have never done it either.A dealer may or may not provide one,a library sometimes has chilton or haynes to check out,or buy one at a national parts store if you plan on keeping the car a long time.The first one I did,I had all the necessary stuff and it did to me what I told you to be prepared for.The second time I had an ignition problem,I ended up buying a used steering wheel from a salvage yard.It cost a little more but I had a new key and was double digit hours less time and only about 4 bolts and disconnect some wiring.After that,I removed all valuables/car papers,left it unlocked,and simply removed the starter fuse every night.i did that for quite a while when the key was stuck in the ignition and would not come out.When I did get it out,you could start it simply by turning it on without even a key needed.I figured if a thief is going to be stupid enough to steal my 8 year old Buick not worth much,he is too stupid to even know about a fuse.Anyhow,each car make is obviously different.I could attempt to give you step by step instructions to do it but there are so many little tricks or whatever you want to call it that there is not exactly a universal way to do it for every car.If you get the diagrams,you can at least see what to expect and if there is some strange method,they will tell you.Also,I would like you to look at my profile and read my tips about car keys.It is good info and should be free.I am not here strictly to make money but to inform and educate because I have done many things,so many that I can only list about half in my profile because of their size limits and people get taken all the time.I was taken by a shop a couple years ago because I let down my guard and did not know the guy that always worked on my car was gone and did not follow my normal Q&A procedure.Also,I hope you read about the keys and please spread the word to friends,family,etc.
In your case you would not even have to have been here had you known. Good luck! Greg

what does it sound like when you turn the key

Not on the paint, not in the radiator nor coolant overflow, not in the wiper washer reservoir, not in the transmission, not in the crankcase, not in the power steering pump. That leaves only one more hole, usually on the firewall near the hood's bottom when closed and more or less in a straight line with where your foot would be when placed on the brake. Will be a cap, most likely black plastic, which unscrews from the top of an opaque reservoir. Should be some type of fill mark on the side. If the reservoir is empty and the brake light on then have it towed to a shop.

You are right this is a classic MAF problem or rather the air mass meter AMM which is the MAF working with the closely associated intake air temperature sensor IAT(a little bead like thermistor on wire sitting close to the MAFF in the air stream). The ECU was getting poor information from the MAF. The ECU had to rely on slow input signals from the IAT and feedback from the oxygen sensor on the exhaust to keep the engine running. The ECU hunted for the right mix, first rich and then lean but never settling hence the 'surge and slow' of the engine revs. When you disconnected the MAF you also disconnected the IAT and now the ECU had just the one signal from the oxygen sensor to depend on and so now provides a slightly rich mix giving the rough idle. You have done the hard work just change the MAF and IAT assembly.