Top 20 1992 Cadillac DeVille - Page 2 Questions & Answers

This is rather a generic answer for most vehicles. First disconnect the negative battery lead, then the positive. Then check the bell housing to tunnel distance and make sure you have some space to lift the engine. Locate the motor mounts you want to remove and replace. You will need to lift the engine, if both mounts are broken you can lift the engine prior to unbolting the mounts, if not, undo the bolt and lift the engine a little and remove the bolt then proceed to remove the other bolts. Jacking up the engine can be problematic. You may have to make a wood block to put between block and engine. Do not put the jack on the oil pan if you bend the pan you can create huge problems! For more specific instructions pertaining to your specific vehicle, obtain a Chilton's manual or Haymes repair manual for your specific vehicle. If you have an engine hoist you can lift the engine with it by hooking on to the factory lifting shackle.

I think it is the glove box if not check under the driver side dash

The engine is burning oil if oil deposits are on the firing end of the spark plug. Possible worn valve seals/guides or worn oil control/piston rings

Hi Rick: Odds are pretty good that the switch has died and will need to be replaced.

You should not be able to set it - replace it if faulty.

Modulator valves affect the shifting. It will shift but at high RPM's. and it will be a hard shift. The valve is near the back end of the transmission. On the passenger side. It is about 3 inches in diameter and the only thing back there that has a vacuum hose going to it. You may want the vacuum line first.

I've seen this problem before. If the fuel pump assembly was bumped in the replacing procedure it's very possible that the fuel gauge sending unit was damaged. Those things are extremely sensitive unlike most GM cars and trucks. Cadillacs are very touchy vehicles to work on unfortunately.

If you have no problems with any valve or perhaps the heater blower motor then heater core could be plugged, I have back flushed some successfully by changing the flow of coolant backward and catching back flow in a separate container. Could actually see large amounts of coolant stop leak. 1st thing to check, is coolant level full. 2nd , is the blower motor actually blowing, Traveling down the road causes ram air to push through the heater as long as the controls are set for fresh air intake. Remember If allumaseal will not plug a leak then more professional measures must be used. Many radiator stop leaks are so effective like bars leak the stuff that looks like rabbit feed pellets that when used professional help must be found because the radiator no longer has the circulation ability to cool the engine and if a vehicle is run any at all above max operating temperatures it will normally result in costly repairs. I have personally used fine ground black pepper and had good results but it must be very fine ground no matter what is used it must be small enough to travel through the small tubes of the radiator and or heater core. If larger particles are used coolant flow will probably be restricted enough to cause either no heat in the cabin or overheating of the engine which most certainly can cause serious damage the very first time.

you replaced something that is not connected to the traction control. Run the fault codes and fix the faulty sensor.

traction control is governed by the ABS system computer module. So if you are getting indicator on the instrument panel, one or more of the ABS sensors has gone faulty -- replace it once you find out which one it is. But check all the wiring from the ABS sensore first.

It has clips,you will probably have to buy new clips once you get it off, its not easy to get a door panel off w/out breaking some clips.a haynes manual will show you.

Open M.A.P. (manifold air pressure) sensor circuit.

The reason you can't get one is that replacement lines are easily built - unless they are very critical or complex, OEM lines cost too much to stock. Remove the old line, take to a auto parts store, get a new length of the correct tubing, the correct fittings and a tubing flare tool and build one yourself. Careful with any bends - you may need a tubing bender as well.

on the throttle body. the gas pedal cable from inside the car leads under the hood on drivers side to the throttle body. throttle body is attached to the intake. *****you should not have to adjust your idle. itusually means that there is a bad sensor if your idle has changed suddenly,**** what exactly is the car doing? ex.fluctuating rpms?, low constant idle?, high idle?

Is the Exhaust Converter 12 to 14 years old & blocked? Is the Oxygen Sensor over 80,000 miles? Spark Plugs over 3 years old? Have you looked at data, to see if you can find a problem? Is it going into Closed Loop, after it warms up, so you have fuel control? Have you checked fuel pressure?

Check the vacuum hoses.

I'm not sure what you mean "fuel and stall", but a loose battery conection can cause it to die. As far as fuel - check the fuel filter.

dealer

as always for ever and ever , check the fuse for spark and EFI.(pcm) NO start, so does it crank, Ill guess yes. No starts. does it have spark , on ALL CYLINDERS? if just one is bad, say that , if all cylinders fail, then its sensors. (using the DTC jumper wire to see flash codes answers this easy) 4.5L , 4.6 or 4.9L , ?????????????????????????????? "Just installed the pick-up coil" what coil , name it, or where is it. cranks sensor cam sensor ????? on new cars we connect any scan too and see which sensors failed. cranking from 5min, release key BAM the DTC code !!! on this old car ,its tad harder. we must insert the diagnostic jumper. and crank, then release the key, (not off) and see the codes. the bad news is there are EFI systems used. Bosch, Teves Mk II Teves Mk IV the bosch you jumper ground to pin H in the DLC i dont know how to TICKLE, Teves, google it, DTC codes 17,36,41,42, and 82 , are key, factors. for spark

Fluid level off