20 Most Recent 2002 Audi A6 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

U NEED TO CHECK THE COMFORT ECU FIRST FOR WATER INSSERTION THEN GO TO THE LOCK AT THE DOOR . FOR MOR INFO CONTACT!!!!

P1602 is 18010 Power Supply (B+) Terminal Supply 30 Low Voltage. That likely indicates that your battery was disconnected. Try unplugging the VAG COM for 30 mins, reconnect it, turn the key to the ignition position but don't start it. The ECU is adapting the throttle body. After a minute try and start it.P1515 is Intake manifold air control solenoid 1 - short to ground The p1515 will likely go away, if not check all your fuses, one may be bad.

Change the transmission fluid. VW says "lifetime fluid" but it needs to be changed at least every 80,000 miles. I used valvoline maxlife, it is synthetic and met the vw spec.

5W-30 is a lighter oil, and although is easier for the engine to push through the oil passages (increasing efficiency). If you were running 10W30 or 10W40, there should not be a reason to change. Also...an interesting phenomena noted when drivers switch to a synthetic, many have stated an increase in valve noise. The oil companies denounce their oil causes increased noise, however the fact that there are many before you that have run into a similar issue cannot be ignored. Since synthetic is lighter and designed to flow/stick like conventional, going to a lighter weight in your case was an oops. Go back to a 10W30 and the noise should go back down a little. If you put in a weight of oil that is significantly higher than the design specifications, your fuel economy will go down (not much for each trip, but collectively it will add up) since the engine is working harder to move the oil.

need to find the timming marks and go from there

uninstall, replace bad parts, reverse procedure to install

If something quits in your car and you suspect a blown fuse, you can find it by pulling out each fuse one by one. Don't mix them up, replace each one as you go, across the top or down the sides, make sure to look at each one. You may even find you have more than one blown fuse! Don't worry about your intended location, checking them all this way will take less than a minute of time. If you have some needle-nose plyers, they work very well, most times you can use your fingers. Here are a few pictures if your unfamiliar with what your looking for:

owners manual?

check tranny mount

Does the engine crank over and not run or is there just a clicking noise when you turn the key? If it just has one click it is probably the starter. If it cranks but does not run, need to check the fuel pressure or test for spark at plugs.

It could also be an ignition sensor, mine went out and the car kept misfiring. Once I had it replaced that took care of the misfiring issue.

Every code is unique. If you don't have the code (should be in the owners manual on a little card) you need to get the code form the dealer.

How slow? Like un-driveable slow? Or just a bit slower than normal? Is the engine running rough? Are the RPMs going higher than normal but the car going slower? Not mush to go off of here but it could be anything from a bad transmission, MAF sensor, fuel pump to a sticking parking break. Add some more detail and we can try to give you a better answer.

In the front panel on the top of ac control it is the same as the emergency butom. is all in one unit.