20 Most Recent 1997 Audi A4 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

hi i have 1997 audi the tranig is cleps all the time rm/tm are going to hi wat it need to be then?

Is the transmission shifting ok? Or is it stuck in limp mode? There are two different common problems. Let me know what is going on, and I will let you know what the problem is.

Relay is located inside the Hazard switch itself inside the dash. You will need to replace that switch. Any dealer should have in stock. Very common!

LOOK ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CYLINDER BLOCK BETWEEN THE CYLINDER HEAD AND THE POWER STEERING PUMP.

Hello Guest

Here is a simple process that will walk you through a few steps that will pinpoint the problem, without even using any tools. It has helped millions of people, and I am certain that it will help you, because I wrote it for people like you. So here is the link to:
Diagnosing an overheating engine

Anyways, if that helps you, then you can even follow me on Twitter, for more great tips and tricks that will help you save a ton of money on car repairs. that one is twitter.com/acoates23234

Thanks for asking, and good luck!

No telling. Here is a link to an article that will walk you through a quick test that will tell you why your Audi is overheating

safe2 relates to the fact that you have put in the wrong code twice and you must leave it for 1-2hours switched on before you can enter the right code.if you have it.if not then you have to take it to a specialist that can negate the code system(not diy)or buy a new unit.sorry.

Limp Mode - These cars are designed to protect themselves from engine damage. If the engine boosts too much, or the engine does not get enough fuel it will go into a limp mode where boost is limited to protect the engine. It limits boost by controlling a solenoid on the wastegate line (N75), by closing the electronic throttle or by opening the DV valve. If you are experiencing a limp mode the best thing to do is get the car scanned for codes and to see what is wrong. Look at fuel trims for signs of running lean, and to look for MAF problems, or O2 sensor problems. To look for potential boost problems log Block 115 and you can see the specified Vs actual boost. If you exceed the specified then there is a good chance that you will go into this limp mode. Stock specified is a max of 14 psi for a 2002+ car.MAF - Mass Air Flow Meter - is used to measure the air going into the engine. It is located on the outlet of the airbox, and housed in a cylindrical tube. The ECU reads the MAF signal, and injects fuel in proportion to the airflow. There are a few different ways the MAF can fail. The MAF can get coated with oil, and will not read properly. This is common if it happens right after installing a CAI, or a K&N filter. It can be cleaned out with 99% isopropyl alcohol, or a quality electronics cleaner. Remove the sensor from the housing and clean the sensor element.
MAF sensors also go bad due to too much airflow. On a car with a larger turbo the airflow is so high that the MAF element will get burned out from the excess air flow. It is common to increase the size of the housing to prevent this (other modifications required).
To check for a BAD MAF the best way is with a VAG com. Block 002 show air mass from the sensor. At idle the air flow should be 2-4 grams/second. With a wide open throttle run to redline the reading should show up to 170 g/s on a chipped car. Look for jumpy readings in the MAF, which can indicate a problem. More details here: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/fuel-trim.html

if you suspect your MAF is bad, one way to test it is to unplug the MAF, often if the MAF is giving false readings and upsets the fueling. If you unplug it, the ECU will ignore the MAF and run off of baseline tables. Be careful, as a boost leak or a vacuum leak can be miss-diagnosed as a bad MAF, because they will throw off the readings on the MAF. (Air sneaks around the MAF).

how about replacing the termstat and when you do this make sure you get all of the air out of the system. also make sure your fans are coming on when engine comes up to temp. if you turn on the a/c the fans or fan should automatically come on.

First time you must diagnose why windscreen wipers going slow and/or stopping.
In order to find out the cause of wipers stopping you can try follows: 1. Carefully extract the wiper arms from their axles (two pieces). In some cases you need to use an extracting tool. Heed of the windscreen !!! 2. Disassemble the plastic covers from the bottom of the windscreen. 3. With the bonnet up you can start the engine, (transmission in "N" or "P" position and parking brake on). Now you must switch on the control lever of the wipers, and go to the engine compartment. If the wiper motor runs let the wiper motor running for a few minutes and switch off. Go to the step 4. If the wiper motor do not runs you must check first the electrical feeding of the motor. It is necessary to unscrew three bolts of the mechanism and disconnect the electrical coupling (difficult assurance). If the electrical feeding is OK you must replace the motor - steps 5, 6, 7. If not you must check electrical connections, the control switch of wipers and electric cables. 4. Now you must check the two bearings of wiper mechanism with your hand. In the most cases the left bearing is out of order (is very hot). This is the most encounter fault of the wipers running at Audi. 5. For have enough space to manipulation the wiper motor together with their mechanism you must extract the plastic cover of the engine computer box, and extract also the box screws. Then you can move slowly the engine computer box, just for a few milimeters. 6. You must disconnect the electrical coupling of the motor (difficult assurance), unscrew three bolts of the mechanism and extract together with the motor. You must move them slowly between windscreen and engine computer box until the wiper motor go out together with the mechanism. This is the most difficult operation! 7. Now you can repair the bearings, replace entire wiper mechanism or replace the wiper motor. It is not very simply, but it works.
Heed of the windscreen !!!
Refit all in reverse order.
Please do rate my response. Thanks!

wiggle the hazard light switch and see what happens ,turn indicators on and then wiggle the switch

The power output stage hi and low (basically the ignition module) this is what powers the coil and can cause misfiring if not working properly.
This is located by the computer (e-box) it has 4 plugs, 2 on one side and 2 on the other.
Other possible issue for misfire are: loss of compression bad injectors electrical problems bad ECU

windows will open and close on this model with the key ,think the key needs reprogramming but looking in my book the keys can only be programmed by a dealer using diagnostic equipment .

IMPORTANT NOTE: You must have the security anti-theft code for the radio from the car manufacturer, or from an Audi dealer!
The sequence of programming is:
1. Push simultaneous "SCAN" and "RDS" keys until on the screen will appear "1000" displayed.
2. Release keys. No more push on "SCAN" and "RDS" keys because otherwise number "1000" will be considered as first safe code attempt.
3. By the #1 key you will set up the first safe code digit.
4. By the #2 key you will set up the second safe code digit.
5. By the #3 key you will set up the third safe code digit.
6. By the #4 key you will set up the four-th safe code digit.
7. Then push again simultaneous "SCAN" and "RDS" keys for confirm this safe code. On the screen will be displayed "SAFE" notice. Release keys! For few seconds a radio frequence will be displayed. The radio is now ready for use!

Welcome to Fixya

If you feel that the brake are little bit naughty then you might need to take the car to a mechanic and have the brakes checked. You may try to check the sensors, rotors or the pick ups since min most cases the problem comes in these parts.

Thank you for using Fixya!
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/elixirjose_00375ea24bd8141b

The oil pump location for 1997 Audi A4 2.8 L V6 30v

Heed of antifreeze solution temperature!!!
You must check the thermostat operating. The thermostat location for 1997 Audi A4 1.9 TDI is on back of alternator at the bottom side of the bracket.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is NOT necessary to replace the alternator if you want to change the thermostat !!!
Thermostat checking:
1. Cold engine. Start up the engine and watch of the water temp indicator. After first value 60 Celsius Degree you still warm up the engine until the lifter (pointer) reach 80 C deg. (second mark after 60 C deg.). At this time you let engine running at idle speed and check with your hand the thermostat plastic housing and hose temperature in bottom left side of the engine. Heed of alternator driving belt and ventilator fan !!!
2. If the thermostat is good the hose must be cold until the water temp indicator reach almost 90 C deg.
3. The thermostat opening temperature is 87 C deg.
4. If the hose is already warm the thermostat is out of order.
5. If the thermostat and the temp sender are OK the last piece out of order will be the instrument cluster.