Top 10 2001 Audi A4 Questions & Answers

Depending on the period of time and intensity of the knock ? If it is a rapid short ,loud knock then disappears altogether you may be dealing with a cam chain tensioner that is loosing oil pressure when the car is standing. A loose cambelt tensioner can increase the noise .

8-10 hrs is more accurate, call around to other repair shops and ask what the flat rate time is for a clutch change on your make and model, most clutch jobs run around $600-800.

there is a valvve that lets the coolant thru the heater core when heat is selcted then when it is off it goes thru thur the return instead of the heater core i bet your car is running a little off if it is the vavle works of a vacuum line and the vavle has a crack in it

There are four sensors for ambient tempurature and they work in unison to provide information to the temp reading on the dash, the heater control head ( where to direct air, blending of warm/cold/outside/inside air flapper controls) depending on the ambient temp and the inside air temp sensor located just above the radio as well as the sun sensor on the top of the dash as well as the a/c compressor head.

When you start your car, the body control module takes the readings from all sensors, outside air temp located in front of the radiator, air temp sensor located in the airbox ( senses temp of air being drawn in from the outside into the air box), coolant temp, inside air temp sensor and the sun sensor on top of the dash (this is why it takes a few seconds for the climate control system to begine when you start the car). The intake air sensor is 1st priority, inside air second, coolant third, ambient 4th and sun 5th. For instance, if the sun sensor reads the sun is hot but the interior sensor reads cold, the inside akes priority. The goal is for the system to achieve a tempurature inside the car that matches the selected temp. It uses all of the sensors to set the system up to achieve that goal as quickly as possible.

Example; Its mid afternoon, sunny and 40 degrees outside adn your in stop and go traffic. The intake sensor reads 40 degrees, the outside sensor reads 60 degrees (heat from radiator...engine heat protrudes into cabin) and the sun sensor reads high (sun is strong). The system is set for 72. priority one sensor reads 40, inside sensor reads 65, ambient reads 60= system will blow hot air to the floor out put, dash outlets will lightly flow 65 degree air so the sun doesnt roast you yet your feet are cold(if it blew hot air from all outlets, your upper body would be hot but your legs/feet would be cold). as the interior sensor reaches desired temp, air will be distrubuted through thee dash, defrost and floor with the warmest air coming out the floor and defrost, coolest air out the dash vents. Its a complex system!

The two sensors that will screw the system up the most are the intake and interior sensors. the system will function reasonably well with just those two sensors though it wont blend air temps between outlets if the sun sensor isnt working. If the outside sensor fails, it simply uses the intake sensor, if the intake sensor fails it will rely on the front sensor. However, since the intake takes priority over the outside sensor, if the intake sensor sends incorrect resistance info rather than failing, it will take priority and cause the unit to malfunction such as in your case.

The intake air sensor can be changed from the outside with patience. If it where me, I would pay the two hrs labor and let the dealer do it right.

Kevin,
Kevins Small Engine service,
South Berwick ME. 03908

Most of the time the cable snaps at the release handle. If you remove the handle and get the end of the cable, you can cut off the cable jacket and use needle nose pliers or vise grips to grab the cable and pull to release bonnet.

Have you changed the coils at each misfing cylinder? I had a misfire on cylinder 3, running really rough with flashing check engine light when engine was warm. The Check Engine light did come on solid after the misfire cleared. Swapped the coil with another cylinder and the misfire code followed the coil, so I replaced the suspect coil with a known good one. Voila, problem solved. My vehicle is a 2001 Jetta 1.8t, and from what I've read on the internet, failing coils is a very common problem. Good luck.

Should be in the relay and fuse block under the hood next to the fender. The diagram should be under the lid after you take it off of the fuse block

MOST TIME CAR STUMBLE OR HESITATION ON ACCELERATION YOU.HAVE A SLIGHT LEAN FUEL MIXTURE.CAUSED BY STOPPED UP FUEL INJECTORS OR FUEL FILTER SLIGHTLY PLUGGED.

Hello! The Trouble codes are pointing at ONLY cylinders 1-2-and 3 (P0301, P0302, and P0303)...P0300 is telling you Random Misfires...P0341 is pointing at the Camshaft Positioning Sensor A (Bank One)...When you face the front of the engine, the Left Bank are cylinders 1, 2, and 3...Although TSB's are written for this problem that isn't much help since you'll pay for it anyway...

The solution is to replace the Camshaft Positioning Sensor A...Of course, check its connector first for bent, dirty or broken pins...Buy a can of Electronic Contact Spray and clean both male and female ends of the connector before buting a new sensor....Follow procedure below...Push two safety pins into the rear of the connector on the specified pin #'s...See diagrams below....Saailer


STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PC345.....Cost $80

1. Connect a Digital Volt Meter to measure voltage across the CMP connector terminals 1 (B+) and 3 (Ground).
2. Switch ignition to "ON", but Do NOT start engine.
3. Measure voltage between terminals 1 and 3 . There should be a minimum 9.0 volts.
4. Switch the ignition "OFF".
5. If reading is not 9.0 volts replace the sensor...
6. You'll have to remove the timing chain to replace it...

any questions send a comment...Guru...Saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

NEED ALSO HOW TO TIME THE BELT AND HOW TO FIT CHAIN ON PUMP?IF SO TELL ME.AND WILL SEND ALL U NEED