20 Most Recent 1992 Suzuki Sidekick Questions & Answers

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Try the following to confirm if is the servo unit .( engine off,pump few times the brake pedal to become stiff.Keeping pressed the pedal start the engine and if servo is working you will feel the pedal slightly goes down.If not will not move at all-remain stiff.) Also if you do have the check valve close to servo not working you can realize it by the engine idle ( erratic ) and the servo not working.The other possibility if the vehicle is fitted,the ABS unit itself.

Check for engine diagnostics for trouble code(s).

I sounds as though there is an electrical or earthing fault somewhere in the system .. hitting the steering wheel 'shocks' something into working again (I do the same on my jeep ...). Some sound advice is to go and see an auto electrician. It's well worth paying him to check the car for you as it really does save time and hassle. Let him find the fault for you. For the life of me I can't see why you would need a new starter motor. A window switch isn't expensive. Look on Ebay: 140results for suzuki vitara window switch

dropping level where, the rad top cap neck? or that silly side tanks, that fail. (hoses bad) if the side expansion tank drops (it will every cool down) and goes up hot its ok,, its doing its job. if the exp, goes dry , the then you have a breach. yes its going somewhere, you do know that for a fact. here is the list 1: to the ground. 2: to the passengers does(footwells, heater core not baypassed) 3: to the engine oil pan, milky oil 4: a/t trans same dead, milky ATF 5: rad cap bad and vacuum breaker bad, in it, 6: side exp, tanks main tube missing cracked or fell off. 7: engine is eating, bad headgasket or crecked head, etc.

check the reservoir for fluid, located under the bonnet on the fire wall, the slave cylinder is located on the bell housing just in front of the gear box, some times the cylinder will bleed it self if you loosen the bleeder *****, if not top up with brake fluid, have a helper pump the clutch a few times and hold it down , loosen the bleeder ***** , fluid and air should escape, tighten the bleeder ***** and repeat till no more air is expelled , top up with fluid.

sure if some one spilled a coke or worsein the console, sure those lock parts can rust and jam, 24years if kids driving, sure... why not take off the console and see the mess?the coke has acid in it that can even rust the cable. and all parts there of metal.if you had read the operators guide, it tells you the super secret magical bypass for park lockout, defeating IT, in an emergency.Is this YOUR "PIN"the PRNDL switch can be bad, unplugging it makes it 10x worse. (signals not in park, FAILS harder. )(deductive thinking only works if you know the logic, there)for sure it's just 3 parts, lock, cable ,trans,one is jammed, and very easy to diagnose.here's me page. (assumes the bypass fails)http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/shiftlock/ParkLock_fails.htmlthe operators guide covers this secret bypass.92-98 year. and beyond, after 2004 or so it became iLLeggall, this LEVER bypass thinks to fed rules. (asinine) my wifes 2004 has it too.The lever bypass works !, so you can drive.then later say on Saturday , you do this.unlike above posters, try this. (in order)brake lamps on rear of car dead? #1 all time cause.blow fuse for brakesbad brake lamp switch, lamps both dead.next is park neutral switch must closes.then the shift lock relay energizes (12vdc across coil)see wiper fuse it runs the relay. so do wipers work.then the relay sends 12vdc to the park lockout Solenoid coil. and it energizes this coil ,releasing the park lever to move. (ill guess coil ohms at 30)end (dead soleniod)how is that for real facts no guessing.?if the cable snaps. the PRNDL switch will be dead.so yes, make sure the cable works 1 for 1.hand to trans,if the cable rusts, then spray penetrating oil therenot useless wd40; real PEN. oil.and free it up. once free i use gun oil there.(lasts longer)if you had used what the book told you, (bypass lever flipped)(seems you did?)you'd have seen the transmission works perfectly and not be cable snapped. If you have a volt meter all this is childs play.for sure and if you do,, then ask help with meter, its super easy to use.my guess is lock jammed or cable rusted, (both easy to diagnose or fix) (pin = lever bypass)

why do other say to replace the most hard and expensive part first. wow, what bad advice, !!! yes, the shifter has the bypass, lever. see link. below and photo. now the facts: (from easy and cheap to harder) 1: brake lamps dead, (both) 2: brake lamp switch dead. 3: wiper fuse blown causing park lock relay to be dead. 4: park lockout relay , bad. 5: PRNDL switch bad, in park. or cable snapped . if bypass works, then the cable is not snapped, trans works,. see? 6: last the solenoid can be bad. (only if 12vdc makes it here) (notice no lies or guessing) randy, we had 3 of these cars , you zero. http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/shiftlock/ParkLock_fails.html here it is , that which randy never saw or read in the oper. manual need one? have it , can send. page 25 in mine. remove cover A slide the lever, and shift to drive. or rev. magic and this photo is in your operators guide, in all sidekicks up to 1998 at least. no bs , the real deal, on Trackers ,sidekicks and vitara's 89-98. with A/t the super magic, super secret , park lock bypass, for real.

cam or spark 92 8v and 16v are here http://www.fixkick.com/ see here for 96-98 http://www.acksfaq.com/trackerfsm.htm

Check for spark on a plug wire when it won't start. If no spark until it cools down, the ignition system is the problem. Could be the coil, the ignition control module (igniter), a crank sensor or pick-up coil, depending on your system, ...some of the most common things to check. If it just stalls, likely lost spark or gas to the engine cylinders. With a new pump, it probably lost spark.

are you getting constant fuel to pressure regulater and fuel rail?

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Loosen adjusting bracket nut or bolt and the bottom bolt, then loosen the long adjusting bolt while pushing down on the alternator. Remove the belt.
Unplug wire from top of alternator.
Unbolt the wire from the rear of alternator. Completely remove upper and lower bolt from the alternator. Pry the alt away from the brackets. You may have to use a hammer to tap the spacer back in its hole about 1/4 inch. This is located in the hole where the large bolt went through. Reverse procedure to install.

its called a MAF sensor, sold rebuilt from cardone (ask)its an air flow meter (mass air flow) on the G16v engine only. 16valvesyou dont have to use anything. its always your choice,.but when its missing the ecu goes to limphome mode(this is a crude mimic of a maf, now)and sucks fuel like mad.so if fuel is cheap. run with NO mafin limphomespark is also retardedRPM cap and rich as a pig and if run long like this , it burns the CAT to CRISP.http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/92-95-MAF-testing.htmlits easy to test. see above.

symptoms, no start right? but cranks perfect right? 2door or 4 door,, M/T or A/T? 2wd or 4wd? what power, 12v? or no 50,000 volts out of oil, it has inputs and output. which engine, 8valve or 16? 1 injector or 4? you blew the fuses? IG-coil fues above left knee, USA car. or FI fuse, same spot. 1: key on, does CEL Lamp come on. no, then fuse blown. 2: .you check spark at all 4 spark plugs and there is non 3: you check spark at the coil. there is none. no HV 4: you then insert the diagnostic jumper in the DCL jack near battery and you should see the CEL flahs 12's (happy time 12s) you crank the engine, over for 4 seconds i bet the CEL no longer flashes 12s but now 41, or 42s? bingo. (ask) see the paper clip check here. http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html if the CEL lamp is dead, post that. either dead don't glow, stuck on full time, or will no flash. all are documented failures.

All belts are tensioned. be that V belts or serps. both engines are the same. 8v and 16v its covered here. loosen 2 bolts #10 and 5 (x2) (drawing numbers) tilt the alt towards the engine the belt is off. put one back, reverse above and set the tension to spec. THE Spec: 22 lbs force will cause a deflection of 91-98' = 0.24 to 0.31 inches [89/90 0.20- 0.32"] http://www.fixkick.com/belts.html if you have optional, A/C and P/S then that comes off first. and is covered there, the P/S has trick read it.

the fsm covers this 100 % and is free. the exact steps depends on the engine type. there are 2, types. one is 8v valve heat, and other 16v. The G16A or B what differs , is the intake manifold brace. ill now put the link page to the G16B (16v) here.. the first step is to disconnect the battery minus lug. (or BOOM eat acid or worse) chapter 6D page 6D2-5 (kinda sucks, but that is suzuki's way , ) http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v1-6D-pdf.htm now my way. see starter installed with intake man. removed. a nice view. this shows what gets in the way. http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-pull/HTML/image_50.html if you are rubber man, like in "Fantastic 4" , then>>>> bottom access might work, i dont think so. I see many online books say this too. i cant. btw. My way.

• remove neg battery lug.
• remove EVAP canister. box, (front right corner of bay.0
  • remove alternator., it has 3 point mounts, Time for new belt?
  • the intake has brace below the intake man. unbolt it and tilt it back.
  • remove the starter wires.
  • remove the bolts. its out.
  • reverse above. for install..

good luck, and ask questions. the 8v evap tank bolts on to body the 16v on mine has these, plastic locks. ive done 91,95,96 and 97 years kick. below is a 91. 8v. evap tank pulled Alternator tilted to tje left. (its upper mount is removed. and the starter bolts are hands on, now.

this sounds like the starter/solenoid is bad and needs replacing.

try changing out ignition coil