20 Most Recent 1999 Jeep Wrangler - Page 4 Questions & Answers

I have the same Jeep and same problem. The engine was running rough. The Jeep dealer fixed a vacum problem in the manifold and they then decarbonized and cleaned the fuel injectors. After these repairs the idle problem began, it would spike to 2000 rpm while sitting at idle, sometimes it would slowly come down, sometimes I would have to tap the accelerator. I took it back in and they then replaced the throttle motor and reprogrammed the PCM (Power Control Module?) Still same problem. Now they suspect a another vacuum leak and I am taking it back in on Tuesday, will let you know what happens, $ 1,300 so far.

The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed first before removing ignition switch.REMOVAL 1. Disconnect negative battery cable at battery. 2. If equipped with an automatic transmission, place shifter in PARK position. 3. Rotate key to ON position.4. A release tang is located on bottom of key cylinder.5. Position a small screwdriver or pin punch into tang access hole on bottom of steering column lower cover.INSTALLATION 1. If equipped with an automatic transmission, place shifter in PARK position. 2. Position key cylinder into steering column as it would normally be in the ON position. 3. Press key cylinder into column until it snaps into position. 4. Check mechanical operation of switch. Automatic Transmission: Be sure transmission lever is locked in PARK position after key removal. If key is difficult to rotate or is difficult to remove, the shift lever-to-steering column cable may be out of adjustment or defective. If key can be removed, release lever mechanism may be defective. Release lever mechanism is not serviced separately. If repair is necessary, the steering column must be replaced. 5. Connect negative cable to battery. 6. Check electrical operation of switch.

When replacing a key or cylinder the key will need to be programed so it is recognized by the anti theft system. A phone call to the local dealer could tell you if it is something you can do yourself or if they have to do it.

move to Key West? get a tune up? ever do a real 60,000 mile interval tune up this decade? not one part listed lasts the life of car, nor engines. that is what a tune up does. prevents stalling, , tops the list. can you save the stall with a fast right foot."action" posted 100 times now and not one responded.. its a test.

the heater has dampers, and the mode section is sticking the tests are in the FSM. under HVAC see YJ here http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service there are 3 systems used, cable, vacuum, and motors. in cable and vacuum , you only need to look to see if the actual damper lever works. if yours is motor, its way more difficult. look in the FSM for that test.

Sounds like voltage regulator in the alternator, have auto-zone do a charging check, may need new alternator.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service read that section in the FSM.

double posted , backup one.

does the blower blow full speed on high you can hear it, and if 1 vent is open , you can feel it. does it? that be first. ask for more.

4.0 1999, same as my Cherokee had. (all 3 , i had....) first off post the symptoms, ive no idea that.? my wild guess. is: 1: cranks ok about 250RPM? 2: will not start.? 3: i find spark is dead on all 6 cylinders (All six? really?) do tell. sure it floods, (sometimes, or ecu sees spark dead, and cuts fuel) 4: I connect scan tool, ($9 tool, or rent borrow) i then do these tests A: i key on , and crank,for 5seconds min, and 15sec max 5 is perfect B: i look at RPM in scan screen. its good it shows 255rpm' C: i then look to see if live or pending DTC errors show up D: i see CMP or CKP errors, BINGO ! that is how to do this. this is first for all no spark on all cars made 1988 to now. (only change is tool used) the ECU is very accurate, i reporting bad CKP and CMP sensors LET IT.

check your body grounds.

isc filthy and sticking open or TPS bad. the 2 top fails for out of control idle on 4 liter. or vacuum leaks

Blower relay stuck on ?

why not diagnose it and not GUE$$ why not say, if heat fan works, does it????? that is first ? and if engine reaches and holds at 180F temp or more. does it? it only takes 2 things to get heat. 1: hot water 180F passing through the core, (easy tests ,ask) 2: air actually flowing through the core. just 2 things, and easy tests. ask. getting hot air to where you want it, that is a whole other matter (dampers) the answer is here. (basics) http://www.fixkick.com/AirCond/heater.html

washer pump dead. never checked for 12v at pump turned on? (2 man)??????? if 12v there, the fuses are and all is working, easy 5min test. i can see you didnt test the pump, for power. pump tests (try with no hydraulic load first) you removed the pump clean it , connect only the wires, turn it on , does it spin? buzzzzzzzzz, (simple , no ?) it buzzes. put it back and no hose connected. does it pump water>? at its output port (open to the world) no hydraulic load)?/? yes, then it's good. easy huh? and new pump now, so is.... and was.... conclusion here is the head, or load, is packed up. not free flowing. # 1 cause, of all bad washers. is this... for mixing wrong cleaners or other bad things in the tank. solution: then clean the hoses and nozzles, and some have an inline check valve, that clogs. packed or pinched lines packed check valves. packed nozzels

get your codes first. as three things in your transmission can go wrong.the pressure sensor.the governor pressure sensor is failing.and your filter in the box very dirty and needing changed .so get the codes first cheaper.

Assuming that you have the proper amount of coolent added, check where your heater hoses connect to the engine block for rust and corrossion, this is a common area to clog up, preventing coolent flow from circulating through your heater core. If ok, check for a thermostat that is stuck open.