20 Most Recent 1996 Chrysler Concorde Questions & Answers

Question edited for FULL 'year make model' and clarity. Question moved to correct category. If you can't see it leaking when ticking over at full temperature, it must be burning it. Does the exhaust feel wet and drips? https://www.google.com/search?q=96+concorde+water+losses ..

You have to fix the problem, not find a way to bypass it. The anti-theft system is designed to stop exactly what you are trying to do. Call out a mobile auto-locksmith. https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto-locksmith ..

car does not move/ or shifter failing what does this mean.? shifts fine up until it goes into drive

If you can see it's coming from the coolant reservoir area, it's most likely one of three things. The hose is cracked, plastic tank is cracked, or the hose is disconnected. A crack in the hose will usually only leak when the water is hot from the engine and the heat will force the coolant out of said crack. Try, after filling the tank to the mark, leave the cap off the tank to keep pressure from building, then drive it for a bit to see if it overheats because it can't push coolant out with no pressure from the heat. If it's good, then it's just the crack in tank or hose. Replace whichever one it is or both to be sure.

What size engine 3.3 or 3.5 L ? Without testing ,would only be guessing . You need to look at a wiring to see what all is involved in the starting system for your vehicle. Then using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter test the electrical circuits . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter the vehicle info. year , make ,model and engine size . Under system click engine then under subsystem click on starting . Then click the search button then the blue link . Looking at the wiring diagram you will see a number of componets . Ign.switch ,when turned to start sends B+ voltage through the coil side (control side )of the starter motor relay .This would close the contacts sending B+ voltage from fuse A - 20 amp to the starter solenoid engaging the starter . If you look at the control side again , at the end , you will see the PCM - this is the engine computer . If it see's that the vehicle is in park or neutral it will supply a ground to the control side energizing the starter motor relay . The battery maybe new ,but what about the connections and the cables ? Voltage drop testing the cables and connections should be done . Starter Voltage Drop How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit plus testing for power and control of the starter motor relay should be done . Do you know what a relay is and how it works ? Relays Understanding Diagnosis and Testing Relayed Circuits Pt1

you have a fuel delivery problem.

Here is a link to the service manual, Geronimo...http://www.mediafire.com/file/p7sorl53ee2c3x1/Dodge+Intrepid+service+manual+1st+Generation.pdfIt is about 46mb in size.Granted, it is for the Dodge Intrepid, but it should be interchangeable with the Concorde.

Buy a funnel with a long flexible hose, and place the end of it in the transmission fluid dipstick hole. Add no more than a a few ounces of fluid at a time before rechecking the levels - preferably while the transmission is hot and the motor running.

Disconnecting the Factory Alarm should not be done, as there are a number of components that is connected to it (Lights, Horn, Ignition, Door Locks, etc.) It would be better if you "disabled" it Find the LIGHT GREEN / ORANGE wire located in the harness in the Driver Kick Panel / Door Boot area. Remove the Driver Kick Panel next to door & the connector should be in that area Do not cut in half, Splice in one end of the piece of wire to the LIGHT GREEN / ORANGE wire Connect the other end of the piece of wire to Ground, to a part of vehicles frame at this link tells disarm wire color. 1996 Chrysler Concorde Car Security Wiring Diagram ModifiedLife com

High idle is usually caused by a vacume leak. First place to check is the cold air intake manifold. All hoses, throttle body, and sensors. Throttle Position(TPS), Mass Airflow(MAS), Idle Air Control Motor (valve) IAC. Controls Idle speed A malfunctioning throttle system can cause both a high idle as well as an engine stall. A dirty air intake or cracked air intake tube is often the culprit. How to Fix an Engine High Idle in Under 15 Minutes

TCM Transmission Control Module, passenger side, upper bay area, just befor strut, attached to frame rail, PDC Power Distribution Center is on opposite corner, along with PCM Power-Train Control Module ECM Engine Control Module is on driver side about midway of engine compartment attached to frame rail. The other modules are just for reference.

P1296 CHRYSLER - 5 Volt Reference Voltage Missing At Throttle Position Sensor https://www.autocodes.com/p1296_chrysler.html

down the transmission dipstick tube. It sucks but thats how it's done.

Local auto parts stores sell a line of "do-it-yourself" repair manuals. The names are , for example, "Motor's", "Chilton's, and "Haines". These are "make" specific, and will walk you through the repair. If you have no car parts stores available, try looking on Amazon or "e-bay" for one of these repair manuals. God bless your efforts.

Take off the bolts that secure the oil pan on the transmission and take off the pan. Get a new gasket before you do this. Locate the solenoid you want to change and you'll see a screw that holds it in place. Remove the screw and pullout the solenoid. Reverse the steps to install the new one.

Your radiator has got a damage. For a short term you can use liquid rad seal; but is to be repaired/replaced. When engine/coolant temp is rising volume/pressure is rising too, excess usually goes to expanding canister, but since there's a hole in rad, it gets spewed out.

STEERING SYSTEM - POWER -1996 Chrysler Concorde LX POWER STEERING PRESSURE HOSE Removal WARNING: On models with Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), before any repairs are performed, disconnect and isolate battery ground cable. Failure to do so could result in accidental deployment of the air bag and possible personal injury. 1. Turn front wheels to straight-ahead position. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable. On 3.5L engine, disconnect throttle cable from throttle body and cable bracket. On all models, remove wiper arms from wiper arm pivots. Remove 6 screws, cowl closure panel and weatherstrip as an assembly. 3. Disconnect air plenum from throttle body, PCV air tube and idle air control motor. Remove air plenum from right side of vehicle. Disconnect wiper module wiring harness. Remove wiper module from cowl panel. Remove power brake booster vacuum hose from intake manifold. Position hose aside. 4. On 3.5L models, disconnect and remove air inlet ducting to throttle bodies. Remove vacuum supply hose from power booster. Remove 2 nuts and remove brake master cylinder from power booster, with hydraulic lines connected, from power brake booster. Carefully position master cylinder against left shock tower. (REMOVE brake master cylinder only if it's in your way) 5. Remove P/S pressure hose and return hose from P/S gear. If equipped with speed proportional steering, disconnect electrical connectors from solenoid control module. Under number 5 above, only remove what you have to get out of your way, in order to remove the line that's leaking. If I remember right, the low pressure line comes off first. You may need to remove that big solenoid control module thing also, if it's in the way. A big crescent wrench I think is what I used on it. Or maybe it was a small crescent wrench with a large jaw.... Don't over tighten it when reinstalling. These things don't go in very tight. Neither do the lines. If in doubt, look up the torque spec on them first. The solenoid, I just put in a hair past snug. It didn't leak. The pump side of the pressure line was a bear to get off of there. I finally cut it off. Then unscrewed part of the pump and the piece of the power steering line that was left hanging out. Put it in a bench vice, and wrenched them loose there. Put it back together with the new NAPA hose, and it works, and hasn't leaked a drop. Good Luck to you.I know the numbering isn't quite right. That's because I borrowed this writeup from a post regarding power steering rack replacement, and edited it up to fit your situation. If you google the power steering rack replacement, you may find the torque specs for the power steering lines there. But you'll still have to use your arm as the torque wrench....

Assuming you can't find access to the headlights, like a lot of newer cars, then try this: If you don't have access to the lights under the hood. Look around the headlights outside. There must be a screw on or under the headlight mount. maybe under the bumper. But if you have access to the bulbs now, then use gloves to replace the bulbs if they are the newer hot bulbs. A finger print on those bulbs can cause it to explode. Some bulbs twist and turn out, others just pull out straight. Hope this helps.