20 Most Recent 1994 Chrysler Concorde - Page 7 Questions & Answers

due to starter selenoid , you can try to put starter relay

this sounds like you may have a forzen cable on the otherside or bad calipers, install the calipers back on the bracket and rotors, remove the cables from each caliper, have someone pull handle up and then hold the release button to lower the handle and you pull on each cable to see if the new or other cable binds up, you shouldnt need to pull hard on the cable, it should pull out easy, if not then replace that cable, the next thing is to use a pleirs on the caliper e arm and applie the ebrake and release it and it should release easy, do the same on the other side, if the arm doesnt release back then replace calipers, if one is bad you should replace them in a pair, good luck, hope this helps.

Could be that the heater core in the dash is leaking ,or you could have a bad hose or something leaking coolant in the engine compartment and steam is getting sucked into the air ducts.

Have you checked to see if it is fuel? Are you getting spark?

This sounds like something came disconnected, inside the door. You will need to remove the door panel and investigate. I expect that you will find a rod disconnected. You may want to get a new retainer, as the rod will likely pop out again, if you just put it back...

Yes you can use synthetic blend or full synthetic motor oil. Just make sure that it is the correct oil such as 5w30 or 10w30.

It mite be a programing problem on the commuter from the car, call the company

Hi, whenever I see this symptom, I check the MAP sensor. It is suppose to sense a loss of vacuum in the intake and widen the injector pulses to get the engine going. Below are some steps to check the MAP sensor operation. A new sensor is $65 at Autozone, so I do recommend you check it rather than just replacing it. If the MAP sensor tests OK, please get back to me for other ideas, and thanks for using FixYa.

Before testing any electrical component, inspect the wiring and connectors for damage. Also wiggle the connectors to ensure a that they are firmly engaged. When testing the sensor, use a high input impedance digital volt-ohmmeter. Insert the tester leads through the back of the connector. Do not disconnect the electrical harness.

1. Inspect the vacuum hose connections at the sensor and throttle body. Repair or replace the hoses, if any hoses are cracking or vacuum is leaking.

For the following step, do not unplug the sensor connector-it must stay plugged in.

1. Make sure that the sensor wiring connector is fully inserted into the sensor (loose connections can create trouble codes). Check the MAP sensor output voltage by inserting the negative lead of a voltmeter into the back of terminal 2 and the positive test leads through the back of the harness connector terminal 3 (as marked on the sensor body). Refer to the accompanying wiring illustration. With the ignition switch in the ON position and the engine OFF , the output voltage should be 4-5 volts.
2. Start the engine and allow to idle at normal operating temperature. The output voltage should drop to 1.5-2.1 volts.
3. Test the PCM terminal 36 (1993-95 models), and terminal 1 (1996-97 models) for the same voltage described above to verify the wire harness condition. Repair the wiring harness if the voltage is not the same.
4. Test the MAP sensor supply voltage at the sensor connection terminal 2 and 1 with the ignition ON . The voltage should be 5 volts. Check the supply voltage at terminal 61 of the PCM. This should also be 5 volts.
5. Using an ohmmeter, test the MAP sensor ground circuit at the sensor connection terminal 1 and at the PCM terminal 43 (1993-95 models), terminal 4 (1996-97 models). Repair the wire harness for an open circuit if infinite resistance is detected.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Fig. Fig. 6: On the 3.5L engine, the MAP sensor is threaded into the left side of the intake manifold plenum
The MAP sensor is located in the rear of the intake manifold plenum on the 3.3L engine. On the 3.5L engine, the MAP sensor is threaded into the left side of the intake manifold plenum.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor.
3. Remove the MAP sensor mounting screws.
4. Remove the sensor from the vehicle.

To install:

1. Install the MAP sensor into its position and secure in place with the mounting screws. Tighten the screws to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm), then rotate it to a horizontal position.
2. Plug the electrical connector back into the sensor. Make certain that the connector is clean and snug fitting.
3. Connect the negative battery cable.

Dextron 4, or Dextron Mercon 4.

You need to start with having the codes pulled.The transmission is computer controlled and has self diagnostics.The problem is just about all failures cause the same symptom , staying in second(limp mode).There are several sensors and solenoids that could be the issue and even the transmission computer itself was prone to failure in theses years.If you can get it scanned for codes and ask them to write down the CVI values for me and get back with me I will tell you what is wrong with it.

On my 97 concorde the water pump is behind the timing belt cover. You must first take the timing belt cover off to see the water pump.

could be the starter or the fuel pump check fuel psi and check to c if there is spark to the motor,it could be a fuse or relay also.lots to check for then fix dont be a parts replacer costs to much now adays.goodluck

Could possibly be the hub bearing or the cv...but the cv usually makes noise when you turn..sort of a clunking sound...you can check the bearings by taking off the wheels and grab the spindle assembly to see if there is any side to side movement...also try to feel if it feels rough when you turn it(you may have to put car in neutral to turn it)...there also is a possibility that the rotor is warped..but you would really notice it when you brake as the car would sort of shake a bit...if all else fails I would recommend taking the car to one of those front end alignment places that offer free estimates and have an ase mechanic look at it

Your thermostat is bad. The thermostat lets the engine warm up before letting the coolant circulate.

I would have the system flushed,they can forward flush reverse flush get them to do both and let me if this solve your problem

Shouldn't. A screw driver, maybe a 1/4 or 5/16 nutt driver. It's just an inline 5/16" fuel filter usually held on by two hose clamps.

GOOD CARS dont need pluging in in winter or summer ALL you need is to drain the cooling system and refilling it with COOLANT 50/50{antifreez}as when your parked somewhere for a day or 2 and you carnt plug it in then you will need 50/50 antifreez only and drain it out in summer and add coolant only.
Have a goodday.
RON