20 Most Recent 1996 Plymouth Voyager - Page 3 Questions & Answers

-Possible crank sensor is bad. or low fuel pressure, broken fuel pump. Good luck Mai Lor

Should be a fuse for the fuel pump (relay), check it.

Are you checking for power with a meter, or assuming since the pump does not run, no power?

Controled by PCM, electronic, make sure you have a good battery in car

Why do we need to know that? If it leaks from the front pump, the transaxle has to come out Why not address that at a repair shop or trans shop ?

Computer Controlled,so you have things that need to be looked into,tested diagnosed,etc

the plastic shroud around the cluster just pulls out as its a snap in piece. then there are screws that hold the cluster to the dash frame that need to be removed. you can pull the cluster forward enough to disconnect the electrical plugs on the back of the cluster then you can remove it.

As far as i know you cannot ,some vehicles i have bypassed a big transistor in the computer which controlled the earth return ,but this one iam not sure about as never done one to be honest you may be better off getting the chip from the key and a transponder and computer from a scrapper and just change the lot .Sorry i cannot be of much help here or bite the bullet and have taken to a dealer to be re-programmed

P= powertrain, 7= Transmission, 31 = component within trans. you can find an explanation at the following link, just copy and paste. http://www.edgeproducts.com/product_images/customer_support_article-pdf-39.pdf

Unlock the passenger door with your key and the alarm will disarm.

Unless you broke into more wiring than you should have, the tach & fuel gauge should have nothing whatever to do with the neutral safety switch. Shortly, the neutral safety switch requires only two contacts that should "make" connection when the vehicle is either in Park or in Neutral, but no other time. That connection should energize a relay under the hood that makes it possible for your key to energize the starter solenoid and crank the engine. It (the neutral safety switch) MAY additionally have anything from one to a dozen other connections - to indicate the shifter position, for example. Some vehicles use two switches, discrete from each other, to function as a neutral safety switch and a shifter position ("PRNDL", pronounced "prindle") switch. Yours apparently has a PRNDL switch separate from your neutral safety switch... so the third contact is somewhat of a mystery to me. Try to return everything under there to as close to original as possible, and we'll start over with this. If you cut any wires, splice them back together. If you spliced any wires, take them back apart. To fulfill its purpose, a neutral safety switch needs to have some power coming TO it and some power coming back OUT of it. It acts as a valve for that power - P or N open the valve, all other positions close the valve. So... you need to determine which two contacts are CONNECTED when the shifter is in P or N but are not connected any other time. You'll want a meter, I'm pretty sure. to find those two switch contacts. Identify them, make a note on a slip of paper, take a photo with your phone or camera, whatever. Remember those two. Now find the connector that used to connect to the old switch. One of its contacts will have some amount of electricity (probably 12V or near to 12V) on it WHEN THE KEYSWITCH IS TURNED TO START. Have an assistant sit there holding the key in the start position while you check for voltage. Voltage should NOT be present on that wire when the keyswitch is NOT in the start position. Remember that wire by color. Write it down on your slip of paper, take a photo, remember it. You have only one wire left to identify - thats the one that your neutral safety switch uses to energize the relay under the hood, and it's easiest identified by making a quick temporary jumper from the START wire (which you just identified) to each of the other two contacts in the same connector WHILE your helper holds the key in the START position. Transmission really in P, of course, so your helper doesn't inadvertently start the vehicle and turn you into squished sausage. So... just touch your jumper from the START wire to each of the other two wires, one at a time. One of them will trigger the starter motor and the vehicle will try to start. Remember which wire that was - by color, photo, whatever. Now you have your two valuable wires and you know which are your two valuable connections on the switch. Connect your two valuable wires to the two valuable connections and be happy. Please make the best possible connections by the best means you can muster. You won't want to do this again, at 11:30PM on a Sunday night, in a November rainstorm, in a mud puddle, with lightening crashing around near you, while the zombies slowly creep nearer and nearer to your hiding place. You can see them, you can hear them, and you really need to get away from them NOW. You want it to start NOW. Make that a good splice.

Possible causes: - Fuse is under rated power. - Short circuit in wiring harness. - Any of the components may be drawing more current, for example fuel pump circuit, ignition system circuit, relays, blower motor, fuel system circuit and charging circuit etc.

the only reason that fuses keep blowing is excessive current usage through them It is from shorts in the units after the fuse, faulty units after the fuse, too many extra accessories tagged into the circuit. It normally supplies power to all the engine circuit items (ignition, starter relay, alternator, accessories and anything else connected to the ignition switch

Seems like the ground is loose, give the engine a good ground with a heavy wire hooket to the chassis.

your transmission is failing and will need to be repaired. It will only get worse until it won't move at all. You are probably looking at $1500 or more for a shop to repair it (they will need to remove it from the vehicle). A used one could be purchased and installed for less but you will still run the risk of it not working properly as well.

the heater has many valve. first say exactly what you are touch, which lever.

1. mode (direction)
2. recirc. (fresh or recirc)
3. hot >>>>>Cold

if number 3? it controls 1 of 3 things on all cars, a damper, a damper motor, or a water valve. 96 voyager (one of 3 engines) my guess is the water valve. you think it has one. right.? and are asking for its location. 1/2 the cars made or more dont have one. So ill look it up in alldata. front heater not the option rear, correct>? im, in the FSM now, looking at the heater core photo its got 2 hoses. and no valve here. on this core side. surely you can look on the engine side and see if there is a valve on That hose.? so i get the HVAC chapter schematic and there are 3 HVAC motor actuators. called motors blend. mode recirc. so you dont have a valve.! ( we get this post all the time. and is just a goose chase) so why not start the post with the symptoms ? The best post is , year car, make model , engine size and like , why dont I have heat in the front of cab in all mode selections and not recirc and i have the blend knob at max. did i guess this? if yes, i guessed right. then the answer is. 1: is engine coolant at 180F or more? holding when hot? yes , good, no, stop do not pass go, and fix that first. 2: if the scan tool shows over 180f i look for both heater core hoses are equal hot, hand tested. yes, good no, the the core is blocked. (not ever flushed every 2 years) (solution, no pun , flush it now?) ok the core is hot on both hoses. the next step is the most hard. you need FSM or alldata.com account to see all blend door tests. if blend door can fail all these ways

1. controls fibbing to the motor
2. wire to either bad.
3. the motor is bad or stuck
4. the blend door is just stuck

no 2 cars have same motors (acutators) and the tests are wildly different. inlike a simple cable, at all. i have to look them all up. per car. never guessing. in the dealer they have a dealer scan tool that allows them to give the motor commands. manually then you check the results with the motor and a voltmeter and is super easy. for them. but nut use, we need to just use the control and see if the motor cycles properly.

Look at the old one and replace the new part in the same manner that you remove the old part.

You either have worn valves in the head or a leaking injector, to still have a cylinder misfire on #2 or a vacuum leak Think you installed too many parts already Have a shop do the proper testing Cylinder leak down test for the valve issues and many different ways to test the injectors Need to start with a professional scan tool & road test to look at data, before any of what you did or replaced Changing parts was how we worked in the 1960's & 70's

I think you might want the flasher relay.The relay that controls the signal lights blinking? If this is what you want it can be found under the dash drivers side.it will be about an inch in diameter,an inch high,and be bright aluminum,or silver in colour. good luck

the signal fuse is in the fuse panel under the dash to the left of the steering colume. and the signal flasher is under the dash same side as the fuse panel and is a square or round looking unit with a 3 wire plug connected to it. make sure you have the signal flasher and not the emergency flasher as they look the same. to know turn on the e-flashers when your think you`ve found the signal flasher, if you have the signal flasher you won`t feel it ticking .