20 Most Recent 1993 Plymouth Voyager - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Depending on which stereo you have, you may have the one with small letter "H and "M" on right side. If that's the case, push in with pen or something similar to change it. H=hours ,M= minutes

Lift hood, reach in behind and remove retainer (twist and unlock) , the wiggle bulb out. Remove connector and ring and be sure to pay attention how it came apart and put back with new bulb. Don't touch glass of new bulb, and rub a little vaseline or grease on "O" ring of bulb for easier installation. Your high beam and low are on one bulb, so it must be replaced.

http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl=en&biw=1007&bih=649&tbs=isch:1&sa=1&q=Fuse+box+diagram+for+dodge+plymouth+1993+Problem+with+the+1993+Plymouth+Voyager&btnG=Search&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=

The diagram should be posted under the hood and all you need is a rachet to move the tension idler to replace belt...Hope this helps.

if it is the inner joint that is going you are not installing them properly please be more specific why you installed 3 so far

no, as long as it isn't driving anything else, you can remove the belt.

check crank position and cam position sensors. This is a standard answer. Check for spark, check for fuel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwlruD4JXmY&feature=channel

Upstream would be before the Catalitic converter. You need one after, or downstream also. Most v-6 engines will have three (Two upstream, before cat) and one or two downstream. (After cat)

If your problem is rumbling drive axles , stop buying after market rebuilt axles. Forget the lifetime warranty. Buy only new Chrysler or Chrysler rebuilt axles for your car . After replacing my motor mounts and a dozen axles the manufacturer axles were the only ones that worked. I recall a motor mount at each end of the motor and one in the front (same vehicle). Checking my manual they do not show a rear mount on any of the motor sizes.

FIRST OF ALL, TURN OFF RADIO,DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. IF EQUIPPED WITH TILT STEERING COLUMN,REMOVE TILT LEVER.CAREFULLY REMOVE THE UPPER AND LOWER STEERING COLUMN COVERS. REMOVE THE 3 TAMPER PROOF TORX IGNITION SWITCH MOUNTING SCREWS USING SNAP ON TOOL TTXR15A2 OR EQUIVALENT. GENTLY PULL THE SWITCH AWAY FROM THE COLUMN AND REMOVE THE 2 ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH. WITH THE KEY IN THE LOCK POSITION, DEPRESS THE KEY CYLINDER RETAINING PIN FLUSH WITH THE KEY CYLINDER SURFACE. ROTATE THE KEY CLOCKWISE TO THE OFF POSITION THE KEY CYLINDER SHOULD NOW BE UNSEATED. ROTATE THE KEY CYLINDER COUNTER CLOCKWISE BACK TO THE LOCK POSITION, AND REMOVE THE LOCK CYLINDER. ( TO INSTALL ) CONNECT THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS TO THE IGNITION SWITCH. BE SURE THE CONNECTORS ARE SECURELY LOCKED IN PLACE. MOUNT THE IGNITION SWITCH TO THE COLUMN 3 SCREWS FOR VECHICLES WITH THE TILT STEERING COLUMN THE SHIFTER MUST BE IN THE PARK POSITION AND THE PARK LOCK DOWEL PIN AND THE COLUMN LOCK FLAG MUST BE INDEXED BEFORE THE SWITCH IS INSTALLED. PLACE SHIFTER IN THE PARK POSITION. PLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH IN THE LOCK POSITION. THE SWITCH IS IN THE LOCK POSITION WHEN THE STEERING COLUMN LOCK FLAG IS PARALLEL TO THE IGNITION SWITCH TERMINALS. POSITION THE PARK LOCK DOWEL PIN OF THE IGNITION SWITCH SO IT ENGAGES THE STEERING COLUMN PARK LOCK SLIDER LINKAGE. APPLY A LIGHT COATING OF GREASE TO THE PARK LOCK DOWEL PIN AND THE COLUMN LOCK FLAG. POSITION THE IGNITION SWITCH AGAINST THE LOCK HOUSING OPENING ON THE STEERING COLUMN. BE SURE THE SWITCH PARK LOCK DOWEL PIN ENTERS THE SLOT IN THE PARK LOCK SLIDER LINKAGE INSTALL THE RETAINING SCREW AND BRACKET. TORQUE THE SCREW TO 26 INCH LBS. INSTALL THE STEERING COLUMN COVERS AND THE TILT LEVER IF REMOVED. WITH THE KEY CYLINDER AND THE IGNITION IN THE LOCK POSITION INSTALL THE KEY CYLINDER INTO THE SWITCH UNTIL IT BOTTOMS. RECONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE AND THE CHECK THE IGNITION SWITCH FOR PROPER OPERATION OF HALO LIGHT SHIFT LOCK IF EQUIPPED AND COLUMN LOCK.ALSO CHECK FOR PROPER OPERATION OF THE IGNITION SWITCH ACCESSORY, LOCK OFF, RUN AND START FUNCTIONS.

i have had this problem before. driving around 45mph still in second gear. when u let off of gas van lurches as if you were downshifting to stop. however, van is automatic. doesn't make sense. van is low on oil and causes gears to stick. like some insane nightmare. give it a quart of oil and you will find the van easily changing gears and acting normal again. don't ask me why or how, but i speak from experience

The only fluid that can be leaking from the rear axle on a front wheel drive would be brake fluid. You probably have a leaking wheel cylinder. It may only be a matter of time before you do start to lose your stopping capability. However, if it is a wheel cylinder they are only held in by two bolts and a hose. You will probably twist the hose off trying to remove it from the cylinder. You will have to buy new straight piece of brake line with ends and bend it into a shape that fits and is not interfered with by moving suspension parts. But is possible to fix cheaply if you do the work. Bleeding the system instructions are on the master cylinder. Start at the back and work your way up. My 93 is still on the road. I am guessing that rust will be what finishes it off . You will need generic brake line, dot brake fluid, wheel cylinder, and new brake shoes(do both sides).

engine and transmission comes down as one unit, and they have to be remove from under the car. have to remove front weels and axels, remove compressor off the engine do not disconnect lines from compressor, and put it to the side. and so the alternator, remove exhaust manifold off te engine. etc.

Depends on engine. See all at http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280215ae3

The fuel pump for your Voyager is in the fuel tank. Specifically it is bolted into the top of the tank towards the back of the vehicle. Sometimes you can turn the vehicle on and tap on the pump. This might get it to build enough pressure for a few more miles ( hopefully enough to get you home.).

check the firing order..and may you have a defective sparkplugs and high tension wires or air leak

Many thing can cause this, it sounds like its running very rich, it may be a bad o2 sensor or leaking fuel preasure regulator or injector, the funny you speak of could be its misfiring, may be bad coil or sparkplugs wires.

This is for 1994 should be the same if engine is V6

never seen an axle fall out--you may have major damage. If you are lucky, the cv joint may have failed suddenly without damaging the tranny or wheel bearing. What do the shaft ends look like? Does it have splines on both ends? Are the splines clean? If yes, you may be OK--just have a new axle put in.