20 Most Recent 1997 Isuzu Trooper - Page 5 Questions & Answers

For these, you may be better off checking salvage yards on line. Don't be suprised if they are expensive. Isuzu's are expensive for any parts and alot of them are not made any more. Try carparts.com and see what they have.

Not the CV joint, I don't think you have one in the rear, but the wheel bearing, yes, Next time you drive it, crawl under there and feel the rear end next to the wheel, Careful, Hot? How about closer to the wheel, then how about the drum dust cover itself? If it hotter than it should be, like oil boiling out or brake fluid boiling out, time to change the bearing, don't wait for it to seize on the axle, you will have to cut it off. You will need to check the book on the way the axle comes out, some come right out, some are attached inside the rear end, need to be un-clipped, then the axle will come out, You will need a slide hammer or a chain to snatch it out of there. Good luck, hope this helps.

Their is a power and normal drive in trooper's power for pulling a trailer and normal for normal driving. The power drive only changes gear at higher R.P.M. Their is a switch on the plastic cover under the handbrake with p & n their is a light in the dash as well. If you are not aware of this switch then just needs switching over if you are aware of it then its probably the fuse to activate it or a wiring problem with it, Cheers

replace air filter do a good tune up. and replace fuel filter

you need the ignition key to unlock it, if it doesn't work with the key you may need a new key.

If you are a DIY'er you can get a OBDII scan tool that connects to your laptop that can tell you the error code and allow you to reset your check engine light. This will save you $80 each time over going to a mechanic for a diagnostic. They are easy to use and will help you know what the issues are if you do have to go to a mechanic.
Check out http://www.fitityourself.netau.net/OBDII.html
Sometime the check engine light comes on if you did not fit your gas cap tight enough. You need a code reader to find out the error code to help solve your problem.
If it is something simple (like a gas cap) and you do not want to get a code reader to find out what codes (problems) your vehicle computer is saying there is. You can try disconnecting the negative battery lead for 5 minutes. This should reset your check engine light. Drive and if it comes back on after some days, your problem is still there, therefore buy a code reader to get to the bottom of the issue.

wheel locks are not engaging. Are they manual lock or auto lock?

Your local parts dealer, NAPA, Auto Zone, etc. has a polishing kit with circular pads and paste that can completely clear those lenses for you again. It may be best to remove them from the car to work on them. Please don't expect more light to come out of them than what did in 1997.

The problem is most likely in the key ignition itself. There is a rod that goes from the key ignition down the column to a set of switches (depending on the make, model, and year) that could jam or your switch assembly could simply be broken. The most simple thing could be that your key and key ignition is so worn that the teeth on the key simply wont align the tumblers anymore. Hope this helps.

if its just one cylinder missfiring its in the wire / coil pack replace plug then try the others good luck

This is because of the missalignment of the pully which drives the alternator. Try to align the pullies to get the poblem solved

Usually the timing belt is on the side of the motor under a cover. And the oil pump is in a different area.

now you have to be sure if you have the right model as from 1997 onwards obd 2 was implemented and previously they were using obd 1. So check that.Hope this helps.

5 degrees BTDC @ 700-800RPM.
rate my answer.

Locate your fuse box/panel, there should be a listing of all fuses on teh fuse box cover or in the owners manual. I would visually inspect one fuse at a time pulling out and verifying all are good one by one as well as replacing the master fuse. I hope this helps you.

If you got the 3.0 i'd say its the rail oil pressure sensor goin west .
If its the 3.1 check your shut off solenoid on the fuel injection pump as they can fai,l stop the engine then be ok next time you start up .

On the drivers side on the bottom front of the engine.

You can't just pop the axle out of the front diff assembly. There's a circlip behind the plate that mounts the housing to the frame where the axle passes through. Not a fun job. I usually rebuild those axles by disassembling the axle at the inner joint. If you're ready to take on the task, I'll walk you through it.

Their is a small hole in both timing wheel's with a treaded hole behind them in the engine turn the mark ot the bottom shaft to the top screw in two screws to both wheel's timing set. For more timing info search fixya as I have answered this question four times in the last two weeks and have gone to great detail with it. Cheer's