20 Most Recent 1991 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 8 Questions & Answers

De que equipo estamos hablando? Un auto, aire acondicionado, nevera o refrigerador. Dejeme saber quiza lo pueda ayudar.

Israel
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remove and separate intake manifold

check heater flap cable ajustment to make sure flap is shutting off so no air from heater core is going into evaporator common problem.
cable moves or comes out of retainer clip remove glove box to see

pull up the bottom of the seat, where it joins the back seat.if it a flip forward design, there will be a ******** the bottom of the back seat to release it.

I can probably help you both. Check your powersteering pump. There is a bracket that connects it to the exhaust manifold. My braket broke and the pump adjusted forwards which allowed the belt to get chewed on. I can also help with the routing of the belt. If you have AC and power steering it travels this way, ( I can also give a picture with an email address). Put the belt in through the passenger side by the battery and loop it over the crank pully, now bring it around the water pump so that the inside of the belt is on the crank and the back of the belt is on the water pully, then it goes around the power steering and up to the AC, there is an idler pully between the altenator and the AC compressor, the belt goes under it, then over the altenator, lastly you'll need a 15 MM socket and will have to pull the tensioner to the driverside by pulling to the passenger side and puttin the belt on the outside, Use a long bar and watch that top radiator hose and the fan blades. Its a bit of a pain, but I've had to take my belt on and off so many times I don't have to look at the pictures. Plus the pictures are drawn sideways to the engine. If I'm feeling frisky I'll draw it on paint and post a link for it.

Mine had a similar issue. You might try changing the ignition control module in the distributor. I changed out several parts because every place that checked it said it was good. But I decided to change it and it ran fine afterwards. It should only cost around $30 for a basic unit, unless you have a shop install it. But it does sound like its something that's on the engine and has trouble operating when it gets hot.

There are a fw possibilities.

1. you have a cracked block and the oil is going in to the water system. To check this open the water cap ,When cold , and see if there is a milky substance in the water.

2. Look to see if there are any oily leaks around the valve pan areas.

3.Your oil pump may be failing.

EP90

It seems like the clutch pressure plate has gone, not releasing the clutch plate once the pedal is operated.
The noise you hear, is it a screeching one or is it like the gears rubbing eachother.
If its a screeching noise thn its the release bearing and if its a heavier grinding noise thn its the gears.
Guess you will have to replace the clutch pressure plate, its highly recomended though to replace the pro-kit,i.e the clutch plate, pressure plate and the release bearing.
Good luck.

power will be on one wire the engine ECU supplys earth when needed to other wire use noide light or diode test light between both wires and crank or start vehicle to see if it flashes. it should flash

A 91 has a gm type rear end in it. The rear end cover has to be removed along with the pinion gear shaft. The axles are held in with two C -clips that must be removed to get them out.

If its automatic follow this link.

if you have an automatic transmission, check to see that the lock up torque converter is not stuck in the lock up mode at idle.

is it a manual transmission or an automatic?

I had the same problem and my fluid was fine! First try to bleed it (i went the easy way and bought a speed bleeder) if that doesn't do it i replaced my slave cylinder and it worked.

Ive never seen a slave cylinder get stuck. there is a lot of force against it from the clutch diaphram, but there is a first time for everything!! I have seen diaphrams on clutches go bad and "over-center" when depressed. watch the slave and see if its staying extended (unless yours is located on the throwout bearing and you can't see it) If it's on the outside of the bellhousing, you can easily change it if its bad. If not the transmission needs to be removed to get to it.

inside fuel tank, to replace must be remove the fuel tank

second red 10 fuse from the top left

i am not tryin to be smart but might i suggest the procurement of a chilton repair manual from your local auto parts store or online. It is not a difficult job but i prefer to have a manual for every car i own. It would be very difficult to walk you thru this step by step.This manual will save you money if you like to do your own maitenance. About 30.00

Ok lets start with is your truck a 4x4 or 2wheel drive? if a 4x4 check to see if your 4wd shifter didn't get knocked into neutral and that it is engaged properly in 2wd mode... if it is a pushbutton check that as well..

Does the Shifter Feel normal you feel it engage? if yes then you know shifter linkage is fine problem lies somewhere else..
Next when did this happen while driving did you hear a bang and then nothing?? maybe you Blew out the rear or boke a driveshaft. or Universal joint? this all will be noisy

or maybe you burned the clutch to the point it melted? it will stink badly and seem to linger forever in the air

has it sounded lateley noisier and noisier if so mabe throwout bearing burned up and broke something under the truck

please respond back with more detail and your findings

good luck